What do you guys think is the best? Locust, oak, pine?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Best wood for flatbed truck?
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Best wood for flatbed truck?
Places to Wheel in the Southeast
Originally posted by Topgun2moI would think boxing would limit the amount the frame could flex over obstacles which I think IMO would be a bad thing. I would think you would want all the articulation possible.Originally posted by johnny019I'm not saying lockers don't improve the performance of your rig, just that they're overrated.Tags: None
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i'm not sure that's the style I'm going for and honestly I've never heard of using that on a flatbed truck. Flooring and cutting boards but not for trucks. I would like to see a pic though.Places to Wheel in the Southeast
Originally posted by Topgun2moI would think boxing would limit the amount the frame could flex over obstacles which I think IMO would be a bad thing. I would think you would want all the articulation possible.Originally posted by johnny019I'm not saying lockers don't improve the performance of your rig, just that they're overrated.
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I have 3/4" tongue and grove Non-treated decking on my flat bed.
Bryan Smith
2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
- 75th Anniversary Edition - 1941 Trim Package - Recon Green
1986 Jeep J20
- Super clean rig from the AZ/CA state line
1982 Jeep J10
- Has become a Long Term Project.
1981 Jeep J20
- Commercial flat bed - Lost in a Divorce --gone
1987 Jeep J20 Pioneer
- Former Rick Bielec aka Ricbee plow rig. Major rust!! --gone
IFSJA Member #1933 Joined November 30, 2001
Originally posted by Jayrodoh...but if it works, I wouldn't touch it.Originally posted by LindelBest laid plans, yada yada yada...
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Prolly a hardwood, oak is nice. Pine will be too soft. Ash or Hickory maybe. IIRC, ash is a good structural wood used for boats. Weren't the wood slats used in pickup beds oak?*** I am collecting pics and info on any factory Jeep Dually trucks from the J-Series at the new Jeep Dually Registry.
***I can set you up with hydroboost for your brakes: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106056
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i think oak is what's needed but i think that's gonna be high dollar.
Pig Smith, what kind of wood and did you get to that 203 yet? thanksPlaces to Wheel in the Southeast
Originally posted by Topgun2moI would think boxing would limit the amount the frame could flex over obstacles which I think IMO would be a bad thing. I would think you would want all the articulation possible.Originally posted by johnny019I'm not saying lockers don't improve the performance of your rig, just that they're overrated.
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IIRC the original bed boards in such trucks weren't any fancy wood; close-grained fir or clear southern yellow pine. The hot rod trucks usually use oak, but any white hardwood would be fine too - oak, ash, and birch are widely available. Again IIRC birch is the chapest of those three. Don't know about locust, but the carcasses of furniture used to be built from gum, which is a hard and consistent but not very attractive wood. Poplar seems to be widely available and popular now, having a tight grain with no knots, but it usually has a greenish cast and it's not as hard as oak, ash, or birch. You could even use Trex made from reclaimed plastic and sawdust, but it might melt if it's too close to the exhaust.Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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Ipe (pronounced E-pay). 5/4 costs a little more than twice what 2x treated pine runs, but it'll outlast the truck.
S.J."Carpe Mañana".
'83 Wagoneer
360, .030-over, K8600 cam, Crane springs, ported heads, Edelbrock Performer, G.M. TBI, TFI, 3" exhaust,
T-18a/208, D44/AMC 20 w/ limited slip in both, 3.73s, 33s, BDS 4" springs, Rancho 9000 shocks, etc., etc.
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Tim:
Trex is not at all suited to heavy load bearing -- it'll sag between supports.
S.J."Carpe Mañana".
'83 Wagoneer
360, .030-over, K8600 cam, Crane springs, ported heads, Edelbrock Performer, G.M. TBI, TFI, 3" exhaust,
T-18a/208, D44/AMC 20 w/ limited slip in both, 3.73s, 33s, BDS 4" springs, Rancho 9000 shocks, etc., etc.
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i'm sorry if i gave the impression this is a street truck. it's an old farm truck that's been in the family for ages. my dad just wants to build it back to it's prime condition. this will win no awards but i want it to be tough so that my dad can be happy with it's durablility and look. IIRC, these boards are thick and look to be a hardwood but i can't be for sure.Places to Wheel in the Southeast
Originally posted by Topgun2moI would think boxing would limit the amount the frame could flex over obstacles which I think IMO would be a bad thing. I would think you would want all the articulation possible.Originally posted by johnny019I'm not saying lockers don't improve the performance of your rig, just that they're overrated.
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Here's another vote for hardwood...oak or ash. (black) Locust is really hard and also resistant to rot, was used for fenceposts, seems like that would be a good one too if you can get itRick
84 Custom GW
360/727/208/d44f/AMC20r/3:31
Manual windows/locks/seats
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Yeah, I hadn't thought about the Trex bending.
How about plywood? 5/4" truck decking (ie for loading dock floors and such) is available, and would be really strong.Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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