how do jack up your Jeeps to work under floor? Where are your points for the stands?
Jacking up.....
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Jacking up.....
Markus!
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
Note: Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face. - Mike Tyson
Cherokee Chief Laredo, 360 cui, selec trac, black, 12/1982
Picture story:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1019823...eat=directlinkTags: None
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Under the axles, unless the axles need to be hanging. Then under the frame.Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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The same. I like to use my stock spring pads now that I am SOA for the front axles. On the rear, I use the area right around the shock mounts. If I need the axle to hange, I go with the frame as close as I can to the axle.The War Wagon: 1986 GW- SOA/SF on 33X12.50's, 360/727/NP228, CS 144 Alt, OBA
Wife's DD: 2012 Ford Focus SEL
My carbon foot print is bigger than your's.
WWW.SOCALULTIMATE4X4.COM
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yeah
Under frame as much as I can I hardly ever go under axle unless I'm looking for drivetrain issues.
80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
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anywhere i read that it is dangerous under the axle < because they could bend...Markus!
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
Note: Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face. - Mike Tyson
Cherokee Chief Laredo, 360 cui, selec trac, black, 12/1982
Picture story:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1019823...eat=directlink
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Originally posted by cmaanywhere i read that it is dangerous under the axle < because they could bend...
Closer to the spring perches or outboard of that will be fine.
jacking on the pumpkin is more likely to bend the axle, but I never have. Still make me nervous. The axle tubes on a Dana 60 go inside the "cuffs" of the diff housing several inches and are plug welded. Dana 44s are similar but smaller.
Dana 44 axle tubes are fairly thick on a J20. J10 and Wag/Cherks are thinner...as are the frame rails. Bending an axle tube on a J20 is unlikely short of jumping it hard. Easier on a J10/Wag/Cherk.
I support the front section of the Jeep frame behind the rear spring hanger for the front springs.
I support the rear section of the Jeep frame under or just in front of the front spring hanger boxes for the rear springs on 119" WB Jtruck/Wag Cherks. Undr the frame rail Just in front of the bend where the frame arches upwards over the rear axle on my 131" WB Jtrucks.
Doing this on my 1981 Cherokee flexes the chassis enough to almost jam the doors shut. Or did. I haven't tried it since I reinforced the floor around the fourth (from front) body-frame mounts.
Doing this on my 1979 green truck (119" WB) with shortened J20 frame doesnt bend anything.Last edited by Tinkerjeep; 02-24-2014, 11:26 PM.
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Jack up from under the spring until you can put a stand under the frame behind the spring hanger. Make sure the stand is really sturdy! (I place it on a strong piece of plywood and I use the right size stands). Then jack up the other side and make sure both stands are straight and secure before you lower it down. Then give the Jeep some really good shoves from various directions to be sure the stands aren't shifting or anything. Don't forget to chock the rear tires too.
I use jackstands under the springs when I need to lift the Jeep higher, unless I need the axle to hang, in which case I put stands right behind the hangers. I'll use ramps if they are more suitable or handy. I try to jack from under the springs if I'm raising the axle, only occasionally do I jack from the diff, but I'm not afraid of bending the axle because the Jeep is not that heavy and I'm not dropping it on the diff. If I need to raise from the frame, that can be difficult since it's a bit tall. I have to admit that I've resorted to big blocks of wood in the past, which I wouldn't really recommend. A high lift jack and jack stands are very helpful and much safer. When I build a rear bumper and rock sliders they will also serve as safe jacking points for a high lift jack, like my front bumper does.'84 Grand Wagoneer 360/727/229, 32" General ST's and 36" Swampers, 3" lift, TFI/Mallory 6AL, CS 144, Taurus fan, custom bumper, and custom 'bodywork'. Soon to have 6" lift
'79 Cherokee S 360/T15/D20, rusting away while I figure out what to do with it
'91 Final Edition GW in Spinnaker Blue!
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