another tailgate switch question - Should i have hot?

[Greenfish]

Working on getting my rear tailgate window working. The motor is tested and good and I have power at the connection of the motor. I'm thinking of bypassing the rear switch and just using the dash switch.

I dont however have any power at the dash switch at all. Should I have at least one hot at the dash?

[Brizio]

In the tailgate also you have another switch, the security one, that allowed to make the window work when the tailgate is close only.

[Billygoat]

Just went thru this on my Cherokee and I think with both switches "off" or in the netraul position that both the leads to the motor are hot, the switches disconnect 1 hot lead and make it a ground to complete the circuit.
Either that or it is the opposite condition...
My tailgate switch was shot so it gave me goofy readings until I took it out of the loop, the front and rear switch are in series.
I then used a couple DPST relays and a DPDT switch in the tailgate.

Hope I didn't confuse you too much.

[Greenfish]

I guess what i'm saying is when I pull the switch out of the dash and test the plug in which it goes into none of the outlets are hot. Should any of them be hot?

[Topgun2mo]

Look at this diagram:

http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/90_numeric/90-TailgateWindow-8W_Page-41.jpg

Should be read wire going into the back of the female plug where the switch plugs into.

[710 Burner]

Yes.

[Greenfish]

Thanks guys, Looks like i have some trouble shooting to do under the dash before I do anything else.

[Greenfish]

ok so I got home and did some more under dash investigation.

My GW does not have the 12v red going to the switch. Here is what it do have. Six slots one is blank. Two black diagonal from each other. A brown and tan next to each other, and a purple wire diagonal from the blank. None are hot

Blank--Black
Brown---Tan
Black---Purple

[Topgun2mo]

Purple is hot then. Look at the diagram again( the dotted in female plug diagram next to the switch diagram.

[Greenfish]

Purple is hot then. Look at the diagram again( the dotted in female plug diagram next to the switch diagram.

I would have thought that but when I apply the tester i get nothing. Ill have to investigate why its not showing hot.

[stonehengeheels]

Not trying be smart or anything but do you have the key on?

[Greenfish]

Not trying be smart or anything but do you have the key on?

So you are saying its not a constant hot? DOH!

its dark out now, ill try it tomorrow.

[men in black]

I'm thinking of bypassing the rear switch and just using the dash switch.

Thats what I did

The red lines are how I did it. Just remove the switch and
butt splice those wire together.

[Greenfish]

Thats what I did

The red lines are how I did it. Just remove the switch and
butt splice those wire together.

Yeah, but I need to fix my first problem first and get the dash switch working. ONce that is done my plan is to bypass the rear switch, that is of course unless the whole thing starts working once I fix the dash switch.

[Greeeeenberg]

Seems like we are chasing down the same problem. I got power at the switch and switch has conitinuty but the window doesn't move. My rear switch does work with the key, but i would like to get the dash switch working. Let me know what you find. My senior design project for college is eating up a lot more time then what i thought it would. I was gonna rip into the tailgate this weekend and make sure wires from the dash switch make it back there. My beat is someone along the line forgot to hook the front switch back up after reinstalling the rear motor or something. Mind you mine is an 87.

http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/86/86_FSJ_WiringDiagramPage4-3.gif

Good luck, Ill check back.