Electric fans...How much air flow is needed on a '88 360?

[mdcptman]

Will this work? Anybody use it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Day-Sale-11-Dual-Extreme-Electric-High-Performance-Cooling-Fan-HD-Puller/400556678670?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D732778179232568532%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D400556678670%26

[mdcptman]

Hey Look! I've been upgraded to Gear head..This is an honor I'll remember for as long as I can...! Id like to thank all the little people who have made it possible...

[joe]

With a stock 360 in at least decent condition and in tune with all the cooling system components up to spec the stock cooling system works just fine. If you're having overheating issues figure out and fix whats wrong before throwing band aids at the symptoms w/o fixing the cause.

[Chief Gunner]

I agree with th above, however, I believe there are times where the stock cooling system doesn't cut it. Out where I wheel, I like having my electric fan. When slow crawling through the desert, being able to kick the fan on high and leave it running makes a huge difference. That being said, I know my cooling system isn't up to spec, but with a little junk yard electric fan out of a Ford Taurus, I can crawl through the SOCAL desert all day without ever reaching 220 degrees. The one thing I like about my electric fan set up is that it has a low and high speed setting. I have it wired to a automatic controller with a manual override. While I am driving under normal conditions, I leave it in auto mode and the controller turns the fan on and off and switches between high and low as needed. Once I am off road, I flip the in cab switch to manual and the fan runs on high full time. No matter what load I put on the engine, the fan pulls enough cool air to keep the engine cool. I don't think the stock cooling system would keep the engine cool enough while offroad in the desert.

[Rich88]

With a stock 360 in at least decent condition and in tune with all the cooling system components up to spec the stock cooling system works just fine. If you're having overheating issues figure out and fix whats wrong before throwing band aids at the symptoms w/o fixing the cause.

Ooops another e-fan thread...

X2 on Joe. I crawled around the Mojave with a 100% stock 76 Cherk back in the day with no problem. If you're running too hot for your liking, e-fan or not, something's only going to get worse until you fix the real problem.

I also have had a few FSJs since then that DID run too hot for my liking for one reason or another. After replacing old radiator and/or old t-stat and/or old EGR....problems solved each time.

[mdcptman]

I appreciate all of the very good advice, and I agree with it all. That said, the original question is still unanswered......how much flow is needed?

[Rich88]

...That said, the original question is still unanswered......how much flow is needed?

I know... I hate when that happens.

What you're asking is saturated with variables. How much flow to keep you from overheating under what specific circumstances? Driving in 1st gear at a 34* incline at 10 mpg @ 2400 rpm up a desert sand wash in 115* heat while hauling 700 lbs of gas, water, girl friend, dog, tools, and camping gear? I never measured the air flow of my fully functional stock system when I was doing that, and don't imagine anyone else has either. But you never know.

[serehill]

The non varible

It really doesn't matter. The one constant is you can't get more than around 3000 cfm through the radiator. Because of the condensor & radiator is a restriction. That is not where a mechaniacal fan struggles the mechanical fan struggles at low speed. I'm not really sure about those Flaps on that contraption. A good electric fan & shroud combintaion will improve low speed operation no mater what is thought about the electrics VS mechanical at low speed they will kick the mechanical fans blades off. At high spedd they are about the same.
I don't know much about this set but a set of cheap fans can make a disbeliever out of you pretty quick. Go ot a junk yard & grab a good OEM set up. If you like the double fan go for it. Measure what you have & go on a treasure hunt. It will be better quality & somethig you can replace later if there are issues. Remember that thing may leave you on the side of the reoad someday & it you can't replace it that will no be fun. As hard as tese parts work & as much as you depend on them get a food set up.

[mdcptman]

Thanks guys! Sitting still in traffic is where my mech fan struggles. But it never overheats, just creeps up to the 220-225 mark. Its the stock guage, so no telling what temp it really is. If I'm moving at all it drops down to 180-ish and stays there. I'm hoping to fix the a/c soon tho, and I'm thinking taking load off the engine, and improving air flow when stationary might be a good idea for grid locked New Orleans summer traffic. I saw this fan combo pretty cheap, and thought it might be worth a try. But I think I'm gonna take Serehill's advice and go the junkyard route. Btw all the cooling components are new, clean, and functioning well. With th Hedman headers tho, it gets really hot under the hood.

[Woodchomper]

I've been down the electrical fan route and used a Taurus 2-speed fan with a custom aluminum shroud. I also used a Dakota Digital fan controller that would even run the fan for a set amount of time after the vehicle was shut off. The problem I had with running an electric fan was that it fell short during towing my 5000 pound camper at highway speeds and my temps would creep up to 215-220.

The solution that worked well for me was to make a fiberglass shroud for my radiator and to go back to the mechanical fan. As a safeguard, I also installed a junkyard Mercedes dual pusher fan for those stuck in traffic moments and for parking the camper. The end result is that the Mercedes fan rarely ever comes on. I can't begin to tell you how much difference the shroud made though.

One last point, the Dakota Digital fan controller is amazing. It is a well engineered product that is very versatile. In the case of the Taurus fan, starting the fan on high speed results in a huge current draw. With the Dakota Digital controller you can program the fan to start at low speed and only switch to high speed when the temperature is above a specified amount. There are much cheaper solutions for fan control but I have experience with the Dakota controller and I like it. Good luck.

[Woodchomper]

Originally posted by: mdcptman
Sitting still in traffic is where my mech fan struggles. But it never overheats, just creeps up to the 220-225 mark........................ Btw all the cooling components are new, clean, and functioning well.

Those traffic temps do seem high. Are you sure your fan clutch is good? Do you have a heavy duty fan clutch like the Hayden 2797? Also, are you running the factory fan shroud?

[Rich88]

... With th Hedman headers tho, it gets really hot under the hood.

The engine and cooling system doesn't know or care. The hot air from either stock or hedman headers is blown away towards the back...goes under the firewall, out under the vehicle and away into the universe.

[mdcptman]

Those traffic temps do seem high. Are you sure your fan clutch is good? Do you have a heavy duty fan clutch like the Hayden 2797? Also, are you running the factory fan shroud?

New clutch, not a hd hayden tho. Factory shroud

[mdcptman]

The engine and cooling system doesn't know or care. The hot air from either stock or hedman headers is blown away towards the back...goes under the firewall, out under the vehicle and away into the universe.

Good to know! Thanks!

[joe]

I'm big on basics before diving into exotic band aids. So I gotta ask: your last coolant system flush and new fresh coolant is no more than 2 years old right? Or you one'a those "oh it's still sorta green...it's fine?"
Before looking for perceived problems insure all your stock parts are in spec and working.