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Okay, here's another one. Just replaced every brake line, wheel cylinders, master cylinder and proportioning valve. Got the brake lines and prop valve from inline tube. The prop valve is a gm style. I have read something somewhere about bleeding with that prop valve. I bled the master, then topped it off, opened the nipples and let gravity go. Front ones ran thru to the bleeders and some fluid went to the rears, but not all the way to the bleeders. So I started the pump/ hold. Great front brakes, but no rears. when pumping you can feel the pin on the front of the prop valve moving maybe a 32nd of an inch in and out. What's the trick to get the fluid under pressure to the rears? After several cycles I got some fluid dribbling out, but no pressure. Any suggestions?
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I assume the GM style is the D type valve. You will need to fabricate a tool to hold the metering pin in during bleeding. Not too hard to do. -
Not sure if it's the d or w style. The pin on the end doesn't protrude but a thirty-second of an inch and doesn't push in. I believe this style valve needs the plastic pin that screws in the place of the sender up on top. That will hold the piston from moving when bleeding. I confirmed the piston had moved is why I wasn't getting pressure to the rears. I pulled the back line off the rear of the valve and the plug and pushed the piston back to the center with my finger. That let gravity let some fluid through. Then instead of the pump and hold method, I loosened the nipple and had someone slowly depress the pedal then tightened. Repeated that till I had enough fluid and minimal air to let me do the pump and hold. Key was to go slow as too much pressure will slide the piston. (ask me how I know that). Having that solid pin would be the cats Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley, so for future bleeding I am going to epoxy the pin on my old valve so it'll hold the piston in place. Maybe this will help someone else in the future.Comment
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