Wiring on Power Windows

[Cherokeeowner]

I need some help on our 86 GW . The flex track on rear windows was broken and need to be replaced. I took the window motors and frames out of all doors, cleaned up the frames and lubed the tracks. I replaced the flex track and reassembled everything. The rear windows work but very slowly. I tested power to both motors and I?m getting 9.4 to 9.5 volts on both sides. I disconnected the power plug on the passenger rear and still have 9.4 volts. Before I rip the rest of the interior out, where do the power wires run? Is it under the carpet or under the door sills?
Thanks in advance,
Joe

[johnsonic]

Did you try cleaning up your switches? Mine were corroded, so cleaned what I could and hit it was some de-oxit, made a difference.

[Tte531]

Yea i would check the switches. You might be getting the right V but not the right draw. Did you try hooking up a battery directly to the window motor? that would bypass the switch and verify the motor and frames are good. If it dosent roll up well then we know its something in the motor, bent frame or the window is getting stuck in the frame.

[Cherokeeowner]

The drivers rear operated as it should when I applied 12 volts. The pass. rear still went up very slow. I couldn't feel any heat from the motor but after the third try, the window will come down but I had to push it up. I wonder if the motor is shot.

[Tte531]

So you gave that motor a direct 12V supply with a direct ground and it preformed the same way as with the switch?

[Cherokeeowner]

So you gave that motor a direct 12V supply with a direct ground and it preformed the same way as with the switch?

Yes.

[Cherokeeowner]

I cleaned all of the connectors (with elect connector cleaner) in the drivers front door and removed the switch panel and sure enough, the switches are corroded. Fortunately the GW came with a bunch of new parts. I installed a brand new switch panel and the front windows and lock actuators work just fine. The rear doors took a turn for the worst. The drivers rear window barely goes down and has to be pushed up. It now only has 8.4 volts and none at the pass. rear window which, is inop along with both of the rear lock actuators. I'm double checking all the connectors that I cleaned up.

Tell me again why we do this... Oh yeah, it's fun and relaxing...LOL!

[babywag]

all the wiring runs along floor under carpet
behind drivers seat IIRC sometimes a screw penetrates and causes issues.
also if you live in rust belt and/or have water leaks the wiring can develop corrosion inside insulation.

where it enters the door can be an issue
dryrotted rock hard window wipes/felt strips can also be an issue

[Cherokeeowner]

All the windows work, all the door lock actuators work except pass rear. After using the lock button manually, it feels like the actuator is bad. I'll check how much power it's getting tomorrow. While I was removing a bunch of old wiring for the car phone, I found a black box with velcro on it that looks like it was disconnected on one end. I have no clue what it was and I'll post pictures in another thread in this forum.

Thank you all for your help.

Joe