1970 Jeep Gladiator 1 Ton 6BT 12V Cummins Build
Collapse
X
-
Thanks for posting the stuff about Larry B's. I am going to have to tackle the fuel shut off solenoid stuff once I get my motor in. Looks like there is a lot of good information on his website. I already have a new solenoid on my pump, but i am going to need all the other stuff to set it up.
Also, one questions I have been meaning to ask. How did you wire up your alternator? Does the alternator have an internal regulator?
Build is looking great!Life Priorities:
1. God
2. Wife
3. Children ( Lane )
4. Work
5. Wagoneer
Man it is hard to keep them in the right order!
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by ross80truckAlso, one questions I have been meaning to ask. How did you wire up your alternator? Does the alternator have an internal regulator?
Edit- added- I just went back in the thread. Post's 283 & 284 have some good pics of the alternator. The overblown pic(I really should resize it) in post 284 gives a good close up of the alt.Last edited by Resbum; 11-13-2012, 07:00 AM.Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by ResbumI haven't done any wiring for the alternator yet. Really no need and I'm waiting until I run the wiring harness. It's the stock alternator for the yr/engine. The only time I've really paid it any attention was installing it so I could put the serpentine belt on. Sorry to be vage.
Edit- added- I just went back in the thread. Post's 283 & 284 have some good pics of the alternator. The overblown pic(I really should resize it) in post 284 gives a good close up of the alt.
All you have to do is get a regulator and plug from a 1992 Dodge Cummins (they were externally regulated) and hook it up to your alternator and viola it will work.www.bjsoffroad.com - BJ's Off-Road - Your Full-Size Jeeps Parts Specialist
1987 Grand Wagoneer - 5.3 Vortec, 4L60E, NP242
1979 Cherokee Chief - 6-inch BJ's Off-Road Lift Kit, TPI Chev 350, 700R4 with NP208 and 4.56 gears, 35x12.50R17, Rhino Front End, J-Truck Rear Axle, GoMango Orange.
1979 Cherokee Chief​ - 5.3 Vortec, 4L60E, Quadratrac, Alpaca Brown Paint, new stock interior
1976 J10 Longbox - 258, T18, Dana 20 - Sniper Fuel Injection
1967 M715 - 454 Chevy, TH400, 1100R16 Michelin XZL Tires, Stock otherwise (sold)
Comment
-
-
Thanks for the info, Brent.Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by TPICherokeeThe alternator does not have an internal regulator, it is regulated through the Dodge computer (which goes bad a lot)
All you have to do is get a regulator and plug from a 1992 Dodge Cummins (they were externally regulated) and hook it up to your alternator and viola it will work.
Okay, back to the computer for more research on where to get a plug and regulator for a 92 Dodge Cummins. Thanks for the information TPICherokee. It amazes me the wealth of knowledge you can get on a "good" forum with good people. Thanks.Life Priorities:
1. God
2. Wife
3. Children ( Lane )
4. Work
5. Wagoneer
Man it is hard to keep them in the right order!
Comment
-
-
Did a little research on the external voltage regulator. If you look up a 1992 Dodge D350 with the 5.9L cummins on RockAuto, they sell 2 different voltage regulators. From what I can tell, the only difference is the warranty. One of them cost about $8 and the other one cost about $24. Also, using the same vehicle, they sell a voltage regulator pig tail for a huge $3.49. So, that should take care of wiring in the alternator.
Also, on the Larry B's web site. He sells a wiring harness for the P7100 pump to wire in the solenoid. That will come in real handy as well wiring in the motor. Good information to find.Life Priorities:
1. God
2. Wife
3. Children ( Lane )
4. Work
5. Wagoneer
Man it is hard to keep them in the right order!
Comment
-
-
Cool. ThanksOriginally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
Comment
-
-
I swung by RE Electric today, confirmed the info., and got the regulator and pigtail for a 1992. The price was right in the ballpark of what ross found.Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
Comment
-
-
So, here's what I've been up to.
Since I posted this pic I made a lot of changes. To be honest, I didn't like this arrangement and some people giving me honest feedback finally made me go back and change things.
1- Brooks, the diesel mechanic who's been giving me advice, swung by. He said although the trans cooler would work in this orientation they tend to trap air in the upper plates.
2- Elliot, from the hydroboost thread, dropped me a note and suggested a two pass cooler similiar to what's used on the F-350's would be better for powersteering cooling.
3- The oil cooler I was going to use has only 3/8" lines and that concerned me.
Solutions:
1- Rotate trans cooler 90 degrees.
2- Use the 20", two pass cooler I had sitting in a box and mount it under the intercooler.
3- Take the huge 1/2" line oil cooler I had, that wouldn't fit, cut it up, and make it fit.
Constantly use compressed air to back flush the lines to keep cuttings out. Pry off the unneeded fins.
Salvage the end plate and carefully reinstall it.
Salvage the U-bend and solder back on using an acid flux solder made for radiators. I don't know why, but when I tried to reinstall the u-bend the solder wouldn't wick properly and I didn't trust the new joint for something as critical as my primary oil line. Ultimately, I destroyed it trying to fix the problem and had to fashion a bend out of standard plumbing pieces.
Edit- Since writing the above I decided to take the oil cooler to Preformance Radiator, in Tacoma, to have it professionally silver soldered. Although what I did would most likely have worked, after the issues I had it wasn't worth risking a new engine to save $40.
Now, when I remount the intercooler, this is how things are going to be. The blue tape on the intercooler shows where the body sheetmetal is. I had to keep the main bodies of the coolers between the tape lines, with the powersteering cooler underneath. The oil cooler lines will now make 90 degree bends and come through the sheetmetal into the engine compartment.
Last edited by Resbum; 12-16-2012, 06:41 AM.Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
Comment
-
-
Nice work*** I am collecting pics and info on any factory Jeep Dually trucks from the J-Series at the new Jeep Dually Registry.
***I can set you up with hydroboost for your brakes: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106056
Comment
-
-
It's been a long 5 days. I've finished installing the remote oil filter, oil thermostat, and oil cooler. It took a lot more time, creativity, money, and trips to the store than I expected, but I feel confident it will work well. The last thing I wanted to do was skimp on things and risk the new engine to an oil system failure.
I also have all the parts needed to finish the trans and powersteering hyrdaulic systems, so they should be done in the next couple of days.
Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
Comment
-
-
Sir did you ever work for PWC? Cause that's a lot of adapters connected to adapters connected to fittings.
But seriously I love the oil cooler mod. I've never thought of doing that, and have spent hours fighting with coolers, grills, and other parts to get stuff to fit. Keep up the good work1968 M715-Driveway queen/in progress
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Chumley360Sir did you ever work for PWC? Cause that's a lot of adapters connected to adapters connected to fittings.
I lost count of all the different ways I tried laying it out.
This turned out to be:
-The most direct & compact
-Offered the most clearance for the hoses
-Didn't interfer with the air filter or inner fender well
While posting the pictures last night I noticed that I may be able to get rid of the two fittings closest to the hoses. When I get to the shop today I'll have to take another look and see if it's an illusion of the pictures or if I really have the 3D space. Every joint eliminated would be a good thing.Last edited by Resbum; 12-01-2012, 08:04 AM.Originally posted by Resbum"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
Comment
-
Comment