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  #21  
Old 05-12-2018, 07:56 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 20, 2006
Location: The Great Googley Moogley Midwest.
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your cam bearings are more likely the ones killing the oil pressure. im sure you are gonna put new ones in.

id rather have the big chamber heads than the early heads everyone seems to want. especially with new pistons upping the compression.

i'd skip the midplate. you're just adding a place to leak oil.

i hope you aren't doing that stupid oil line under the intake manifold.
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  #22  
Old 05-12-2018, 09:05 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
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HHAHAHA!!! You're a fan of the oil line mod, eh? LOL!

nope, no oil line mod for me. Your extra place for an oil leak point and babywags point that the top wears are well taken. Hm. Guess it goes on ebay.
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  #23  
Old 05-13-2018, 01:00 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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Location: The Great Googley Moogley Midwest.
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yah,that little oil line mod has blown up more motors than it has "saved".
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankrod
Ristows right.................again,


→ Where the kids hang out...

fsjbuilder.org come for the mindless chat,stay for the hand drawn emoticons.

It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
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  #24  
Old 05-14-2018, 08:57 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 1,501
Engine went to the machinist on Saturday as expected. I brought my block, crank, rods, damper, and flexplate. We checked the block and it was at maximum spec to just hone but he said the honeing process would have removed enough material that it would be just beyond spec. He said it had probably been honed and re-ring'ed before.
Bummer.
Kind of. Cast pistons at stock bore would have been about $320 but forged at +.030 are only $410. so for about another $90 I end up with a completely forged bottom end. I really like the idea of not having to worry about my bottom end at all, ever. He said he bores/hones with torque plates, too.

Anyway, he is going to polish the crank, blueprint the rods, Install cam bearings, install ARP hardware on the rods, clean the block (he has
a 3 step process that makes them look pretty amazing, including in the coolant passages and jackets), bore/hone, balance the rotating assembly (including the damper and flexplate)
and install the rods on the pistons. He said it will take about 6 weeks because of his back log.

His shop was pretty amazing. He was building a big block Chevy that was going to have 14:1 compression. His dyno had an SCCA nostalgia class motor on it. I felt like I left my parts in good hands. I am excited to see them come back.

Check this out. I got a kick out of this. I am pretty sure I am the only person with an AMC V8 in a Mazdaspeed 3. haha!
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  #25  
Old 05-15-2018, 11:39 PM
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CameraFinn CameraFinn is offline
232 I6
 
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Location: Golden, CO
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Glad to see you made it to the shop. Forged bottom end is nice. Are the 401's cranks forged too? Also, I love your license plate. That's real good.
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  #26  
Old 05-16-2018, 08:09 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Location: Land of froot loops and cukcoo-nuts, CA
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What shop is doing work?
Are you having them assemble it as well?
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  #27  
Old 05-16-2018, 08:16 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
Posts: 313
good luck on the rebuild
ole' yeller is getting a new lease on life.

dave in NC
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  #28  
Old 05-16-2018, 01:31 PM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
What shop is doing work?
Are you having them assemble it as well?
Jim Grubbs Motorsports in Valencia. Nope. I'll assemble. I can't really afford their labor to assemble it. Here is some of their other work:
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/amc-401-build/
There are lots of other builds they have done but this one really stuck out to me.
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