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  #41  
Old 09-04-2008, 12:03 PM
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krek krek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiserMan
Anyone want the 400/203? My buddy wants (still his truck, I just own the motor and front end) $100 for them.

I'd be interested in the wheels if they are 6 lug 15 x 8... those are the ones that fit the Jeep dog dish hubcaps, right?
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  #42  
Old 10-28-2008, 08:47 AM
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Bit of an update.

I gave the 400 to my father for his 65 Impala SS.

And in turn he bought me an M715. Sort of. It's an M715 chassis (from the front cross member to the x member) with a 38K mile 230 OHC 6 mated to a T98A. It comes with a good radiator (that will bolt into my support), everything attached to the frame (except front springs/axle) the front and rear driveshaft and the intermediate shaft. No T-case though. I've decided to go original with this project (I know the military 230 is a little different, but a 230/T98 was optional for my 63).

The chassis runs and drives right now (or it did drive untill a couple of weeks ago when the owner pulled the t-case) and the truck has been converted to 12 volt with a civi distributer and a new 12v starter.

The guy is cutting the M715 apart this weekend. I proably won't pick it up for a month or so. Still busy with the 71.
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1975 Chevy K20 8400lb GVW Camper Special
1971 Gladiator
J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400
1963 Gladiator J300 Townside 350/TH400

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  #43  
Old 12-28-2008, 06:44 PM
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KaiserMan KaiserMan is offline
I got the Willys....
 
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Okay, so the 230 is in. The military motor mounts (same as the 232/258) just barely fit with the ross steering box. They are now held on with Four 3/8" grade 8 bolts. I'll weld them on when I can get it into the garage. The tranny mount sits right above the center of the stock cross member, so I don't need to make the M715 x-member work. I just have to make the TH400 (same as my T18) mount I have fit.

I still have to plump and wire every thing up, that's going to be my first priority. Then I'm going to convert it back to a hydraulic clutch (means I need a new slave and master cylinder) then give it a front brake job so I can stop it.

I'm going to cut down a long drive shaft I have and make it a 2wd untill I get a divoreced t-case.











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Thomas Russell
1975 Chevy K20 8400lb GVW Camper Special
1971 Gladiator
J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400
1963 Gladiator J300 Townside 350/TH400

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  #44  
Old 12-28-2008, 06:46 PM
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KaiserMan KaiserMan is offline
I got the Willys....
 
Join Date: Jun 21, 2005
Location: Huntington, Ma.
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Oh, the truck is also kept in a 12'x20' tent garage witha dry floor now! I even have light! But still no heat
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Thomas Russell
1975 Chevy K20 8400lb GVW Camper Special
1971 Gladiator
J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400
1963 Gladiator J300 Townside 350/TH400

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  #45  
Old 12-28-2008, 07:40 PM
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Elliott Elliott is offline
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What do you mean no heat? Use an infrared bulb for light
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  #46  
Old 12-29-2008, 02:59 PM
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KaiserMan KaiserMan is offline
I got the Willys....
 
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I've got a small electric heater I can use if I really need to, but I don't want to run up the electric bill to much.

I got the tranny mounted today. I just had to drill one hole in the metal tranny mount, two for the TH400 mount in the top of the civi x-member and on in the side for the M715 torque stud.

I also had to make a new mount for the torque stud, as the stock piece of angle wasn't long enough for me to mount it to the side of the x-member.

I have to slot the hole in the x-member for that bracket, as I managed to get the tranny mount bracket 3/16" higher on that side. It's also offset to the driver side 1/8".

Pretty close I think.

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Thomas Russell
1975 Chevy K20 8400lb GVW Camper Special
1971 Gladiator
J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400
1963 Gladiator J300 Townside 350/TH400

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  #47  
Old 12-29-2008, 04:47 PM
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The PIG Smith The PIG Smith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiserMan
I've decided to go original with this project (I know the military 230 is a little different, but a 230/T98 was optional for my 63).
I understand the Military 230 and Civilian 230 are different.
Could you explain the differences?
Do you think you will be disappointed with the lack of power of 230 compared to the 400 SBC?

Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiserMan
...and the truck has been converted to 12 volt with a civi distributer and a new 12v starter.
What else needs to be done to de-militarize your 230?

Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiserMan
The guy is cutting the M715 apart this weekend. I proably won't pick it up for a month or so. Still busy with the 71.
Goodness...I foam at the mouth when I hear "M-715" and "Project" in the same sentence
and there are those out in the world that are just cutting them up.
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2005 Grand Cherokee Limited - HEMI! Current Daily Driver
1982 J10: Stalled Project.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrodoh
...but if it works, I wouldn't touch it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindel
Best laid plans, yada yada yada...

Last edited by The PIG Smith : 12-29-2008 at 05:24 PM.
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  #48  
Old 12-29-2008, 04:55 PM
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KaiserMan KaiserMan is offline
I got the Willys....
 
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It is sad. The M715 was a running driving not to rotted truck. But he needed parts to fix his other m715. So it's death get both his truck and mine one step closer to the road.

The military 230 has the low compression head and 1 bbl carb (these where available on some civi models). It also has side mount motor mounts and no front plate (mounted to the block before the timing cover), vs the mounts on the front plate of the civi motors. Everything elctrical (starter, distributer, coil etc) is different as it is 24 volt. The air cleaner is a little different. Alternater brackets are different. Lots of little things.

I'm not going to bother replacing all the military stuff. It's actually much easier to get those parts then civi parts anyway.

I won't be dissapointed about the power differance, it will be massive but I expect that. This isn't going to be a highway rig, and with the 4.27 gears and smaller tires I think I will have plenty of power. If I need a bit of a boost, I'll toss on a 2bbl intake and carb.
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Thomas Russell
1975 Chevy K20 8400lb GVW Camper Special
1971 Gladiator
J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400
1963 Gladiator J300 Townside 350/TH400

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  #49  
Old 12-29-2008, 08:15 PM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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Turbo it!!!
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  #50  
Old 01-06-2009, 08:19 PM
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KaiserMan KaiserMan is offline
I got the Willys....
 
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I'd love to get one of those Argintinian(sp) dual quad intakes for the 230. That would be sweet! Or a six pack intake, I'd like to tell the ricers I have a six-pack Hemi under the hood!

Got a little work done.

I drilled out the spot welds and removed the orginal radiator supports, then did the same for the ones from the M715. Got those in position and welded on, and bolted the core support back on. The M715 radiator looks to be the same as the slightly lager 232/258 radiator, even though is has the 230. I also have the stock shroud from the 715.

I tossed the hood on. I convinced myself that I needed it to help line up the core support (I had the radiator bolted to the upright supports, had them bolted to the frame and bolted the core to the inner fenders before I tack welded everything together so I would not mess anything up).

I think I just wanted to put the hood on. I also could not resist putting the grille support panel on with a couple of bolts.

Also got my new slave cylinder mounted. Bought, bled and mounted my clutch master cylinder. I'll be making new hard lines and a push rod for the slave tomorrow.

Got the throttle and choke cables back in.
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Thomas Russell
1975 Chevy K20 8400lb GVW Camper Special
1971 Gladiator
J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400
1963 Gladiator J300 Townside 350/TH400

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  #51  
Old 01-06-2009, 08:23 PM
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red mistress red mistress is offline
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Choke cable

I'll get that NOS choke cable to U soon, N/C you've been a big help and great friend.

Keep up the good work on the 63.
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83 CJ-8 50K 401, ARB60's, F&R Winch, 38"
84 CJ-7 38K Garnet Int., Jeep 8274 winch
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  #52  
Old 01-06-2009, 08:29 PM
KaiserMan's Avatar
KaiserMan KaiserMan is offline
I got the Willys....
 
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Location: Huntington, Ma.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red mistress
I'll get that NOS choke cable to U soon, N/C you've been a big help and great friend.

Keep up the good work on the 63.

Thanks Dennis, I appreciate it!

Sent you a PM, btw.
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Thomas Russell
1975 Chevy K20 8400lb GVW Camper Special
1971 Gladiator
J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400
1963 Gladiator J300 Townside 350/TH400

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  #53  
Old 01-06-2009, 08:50 PM
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Long&Low Long&Low is offline
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Nice work Thomas.
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  #54  
Old 01-06-2009, 09:51 PM
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jeepjerry jeepjerry is offline
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Cool... Im liking that your returning the originallity to it with the 230. Sweet.
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  #55  
Old 01-08-2009, 02:25 AM
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willam willam is offline
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Very nice work Thom.......I know your a fanatic about original an all. But the engine bay looks so.....vacant.

The stupid uber expensive SBC 400 would have rocked.

Why divorced transfercase? Wasn't the Dana 20 original?

BTW - My '63 should have it's crappy drivetrain extracted in either may or June. At that point your welcome to the driverside Dana 20 shifter. Everything works on it smooth as silk (a little sloppy but the detent's are firm and hold there place)
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  #56  
Old 01-08-2009, 08:50 AM
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KaiserMan KaiserMan is offline
I got the Willys....
 
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I'd rather use a mated Dana 20, but the motor and tranny are out of an M715, which used a divoreced t-case. So I don't have a choice. I'd like to get wither a 200 or a 205.

I definitely want that early shifter when you pull it. I'm sure I'll do something with it eventually.
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Thomas Russell
1975 Chevy K20 8400lb GVW Camper Special
1971 Gladiator
J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400
1963 Gladiator J300 Townside 350/TH400

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  #57  
Old 04-24-2009, 10:14 AM
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KaiserMan KaiserMan is offline
I got the Willys....
 
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Well a bit more with the updates.

Bought this rebuilt powder coated NP205 from imicemen. Should be here in couple of weeks. It's going to make the rest of the greasy/rusty drive train look like crap. A few weeks of New England driving should cure that though.





I'm not sure if I will use the cross member though. It looks like it will drop the 205 way to low to work for me. I may just modify the M175 200 mounts that I have.

Tore the stock wiring harness out of the truck and clenaed it up. It was actually in very good shape, and had no wires cut to fit the 307. I just fixed any bad connections, re-wrapped sections of it and put it back in teh truck.
I haven't actually hooked it up (truck runs off of a small wiring harness I made jsut to start it) but it's all back in place and ready to go.

I guess I have power brakes now. I pulled and installed the Midland-Ross power booster from my parts truck (should be picking it up next weekend as I need some bits fro the brakes) and installed it. Also picked up a neaer new stock style master cylinder at a local swap meet for $5. Tore it apart, cleaned it, bleen it and now it's my MC for the clutch. I swapped the other MC I had for the brakes. It had a wire clip for the cover and I couldn't flip it open after installing the booster.

I started getting into the front brakes the other day. Shoes have some good life left in them, and someone tossed new spring kits and wheel cylinders in it before parking it. I have to rebuild the cylinders but kits are only $5 each. New wheel cylinders are $68 each! I have some near new brake hoses from when my 71 had the 5-lug c/k D44 in it I'm using.

While I was there, I grabbed the knuckle and found the drivers side had bad king pins and a loose TRE. Tore it apart and found that the lower beairng cage had blown apart. So I grabbed the knuckle, king pins and bearings from my 40K mile D44 out of the 71 (it turned out to have new bearings in it) and swapped all of those bits on. The u-joints (like almost all c.k axles I've taken apart) are still good and tight. They tend to last dang near forever running in oil/grease. I'll also be using the good TRE off the 40K axle.

Got a lot of minor things done under the hood, nothing really worth writing about. Oh, I did install the M715 twin sticks in the Jeep. They will work with the 205 and give me front axle in/out and Hi-N-Lo.

Things to do before it's driving.

1. Install NP205 and crossmember.
2. Cut down rear drive shaft to fit.
3. Exhaust
4. Finish front brake job.

Some other minor stuff but that is everything major. Won't be to long now.
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Thomas Russell
1975 Chevy K20 8400lb GVW Camper Special
1971 Gladiator
J2000 Platform-Stake Dump 350/T18

1970 Gladiator J3000 3407Z Camper Truck 350/T18
1968 Wagoneer Custom 327/TH400
1963 Gladiator J300 Townside 350/TH400

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  #58  
Old 04-24-2009, 10:37 AM
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Mikel Mikel is offline
 
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Good score! Can't wait to see that truck running. You'd be surprised how much room there is in that area. After a lot of juggling, I was able to squeeze my NP200 between the frame rails with no overhang (and it is MUCH bigger than a NP200!), so a NP205 should fit too quite nicely.

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Last edited by Mikel : 04-24-2009 at 10:45 AM.
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  #59  
Old 04-24-2009, 02:46 PM
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Tonka J200 Tonka J200 is offline
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Not to get off track, Mikel, but I love how your Toronado ends up in the background of every photo.
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'63 J200 2WD
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  #60  
Old 04-24-2009, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonka J200
Not to get off track, Mikel, but I love how your Toronado ends up in the background of every photo.

I have no idea what you are talking about

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