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Old 12-04-2019, 12:34 PM
Beach_Dude's Avatar
Beach_Dude Beach_Dude is offline
327 Rambler
Join Date: Mar 03, 2011
Location: Newport Beach
Posts: 585
Here's the way I look at it...

If you're already going through all the work of hoses, evap, conden, you need a new dryer, etc etc...

Pull the pump off, drain it, flush it, refill with fresh ester, drain it, then refill again, add dye, and just be done with it.

From my experience, it's just not worth the BS of doing it over and over again.

I hooked a bolt to my impact and ran the pump with fresh oil a few times. I don't see why you can't test compression with a good enough (amps) drill. But the only real way to find out is with correct RPMs and charged.

If you replace the evap, just don't forget that shrader valve!!! LOL
1977 Jeep Cherokee Chief
360 w/ MC 4350
All stock but ignition and slightly modified suspection
Original paint, garaged/non-op for over 15 years
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Old 12-05-2019, 01:03 AM
FSJunkie's Avatar
FSJunkie FSJunkie is offline
The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
Join Date: Jan 09, 2011
Location: Not The Hot Part, Arizona
Posts: 4,031
Especially since servicing the oil on a York is so simple and easy. You just backseat the service valves to isolate the compressor then open the fill plug on the crankcase and put a dipstick down to the bottom. 1 to 1-1/2 inch is the specified level, which is 8 to 12 ounces. Then you crack open the service valves to let refrigerant purge the air from the crankcase as you reinstall the fill plug. Draining the old oil out is as simple as turning the compressor over and letting it drain out.

These systems are pretty good at keeping the oil inside the compressor. A little oil circulates through the system, but most of it stays in the compressor. I usually just fill the compressor with 12 ounces and run it for a few days or weeks then recheck it and top it off. It's good after that.
'72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.
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