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Old 03-04-2014, 09:11 AM
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earlb74 earlb74 is offline
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Lift / Steering

Hi, just recently I installed a Rusty's 4" lift with Goodyear 31x10.50x15 tires and so far I am very please with the look and the ride. My question is what can I do to tighten up the little bit of play in my steering. For example... If I hit a bump the steering seems to sway from one side to the other. Its not bad but I would like to fix it if possible.
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  #2  
Old 03-04-2014, 09:53 AM
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RED88 RED88 is offline
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Exclamation

check your tie rods and replace, check steering stabilizer replace, on mine I also bought a drop pitman arm from BJ's to keep things level as they should be.
I would also re torque all bolts and have a well known shop align it. have you also checked your shocks?.
All add up to a loosey loosey feeling.
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:05 AM
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Thanks, the kit came with new shocks but I was told I didn't need a drop pitman arm. I will check everything else you noted, thanks for the reply.



Quote:
Originally Posted by RED88
check your tie rods and replace, check steering stabilizer replace, on mine I also bought a drop pitman arm from BJ's to keep things level as they should be.
I would also re torque all bolts and have a well known shop align it. have you also checked your shocks?.
All add up to a loosey loosey feeling.
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  #4  
Old 03-04-2014, 11:05 AM
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serehill serehill is offline
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If you didn't have it before you did the lift.

Then the springs may not be tight enough. Or you do need a pitman. I put pitmans on both of mine & did see a difference in what is called bumpsteer. this is where the steering seems to turn some when it hits a bumps. But if it is everyday slack make sure you snugged up the springs to specifications when you installed them. If the shackles are loose it will case slack.
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  #5  
Old 03-04-2014, 11:28 AM
Coondawg Coondawg is offline
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You have changed the steering geometry by modifying the suspension. Alignment is necessary. Yes, you probably have aged steering joints, but definately have an alignment done.
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  #6  
Old 03-04-2014, 11:44 AM
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vacaisle vacaisle is offline
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I had that same problem, though I don't have a lift, and I replace the steering stabilizer and it was much better.
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Old 03-04-2014, 06:06 PM
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New tie rod ends, dropped pitman arm, and an alignment. You've changed the suspension and steering system geometry, now the drag link is at an angle because the tie rod is about 4 inches lower than it should be. Each time the suspension flexes the drag link is now getting pushed or pulled because it's not level.
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  #8  
Old 03-05-2014, 12:27 AM
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DPA will almost fix your geometry. Should help mitigate bump steer
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  #9  
Old 03-05-2014, 06:48 AM
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earlb74 earlb74 is offline
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Thanks for all the suggestions, I am ordering parts today!
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Old 03-08-2014, 09:15 PM
Pavementsux91XJ Pavementsux91XJ is offline
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DanHS is right. What year are you working on? The term is "Bump Steer" Is it a newer model with a track bar or no? Did you remove it?

Theory...if you care: Imagine a 30,60,90 (isosolese?) triangle. The bottom side would be your axle, the long side is your drag link, and the upright side is the distance between the axle and your frame. As your suspension cycles, the length of the upright side changes, and since the axle can't get wider or narrower, and the drag link, obviously, can't change lengths, the only way for any movement to happen is for the drag link to push or pull the steering, when this happens, the steering wheel will rotate. If you have a track bar (forgot when they started using them), the track bar will push or pull the axle off to one side and thus eliminate the bump steer.

Ideally you would want to have a track bar the same length, and at the same angle as your drag link.

A drop pitman arm can "fix" the problem by moving your drag link closer to parallel to the axle so the change in the length of the "hypotenuse" isn't as great. And therefore, the minimal bump steer is not noticeable.

Hope this all makes sense.
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  #11  
Old 03-12-2014, 06:03 AM
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billyj7175 billyj7175 is offline
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I ran a 4" Rusty's lift on my J10 for many years before installing a DPA...wish I had done it sooner.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:23 AM
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Yeah I ran mine for a year before I did the dpa. Drives much nicer on the highway. I the did the j20 box which was also a nice upgrade.
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  #13  
Old 03-12-2014, 01:51 PM
JDD JDD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earlb74
Hi, just recently I installed a Rusty's 4" lift with Goodyear 31x10.50x15 tires and so far I am very please with the look and the ride. My question is what can I do to tighten up the little bit of play in my steering. For example... If I hit a bump the steering seems to sway from one side to the other. Its not bad but I would like to fix it if possible.

Post some pics!
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  #14  
Old 03-12-2014, 07:16 PM
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CutterN55 CutterN55 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coondawg
You have changed the steering geometry by modifying the suspension. Alignment is necessary. Yes, you probably have aged steering joints, but definately have an alignment done.

Fist sentence yes, second...NOPE alignment is not necessary.... At least not in most situations. If the caster and camber didn't change or the the steering linkage, tow, and rod ends haven't been messed with (with exception of the drag link) and the truck was aligned prior to lifting, alignment would be a waste of time and money for a solid axle, leaf sprung truck.

Get the drag link angle down with a DPA first. That will likely solve your issues. Then address your bushings and look for worn rod ends. Caster can effect bump steer if it's real negative, but a 4" kit with proper pinion angle is not going to put your caster so far off that it becomes a problem.

A 4" lift on an FSJ hardly requires diddly squat other than longer brake lines, shocks, and a DPA which some folks don't always feel they need. If the lift kit didn't come with pinion angle shims, seperately or built into the spring, you might want to throw some in there.
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDD
Post some pics!


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  #16  
Old 03-25-2014, 01:10 PM
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earlb74 earlb74 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutterN55
Fist sentence yes, second...NOPE alignment is not necessary.... At least not in most situations. If the caster and camber didn't change or the the steering linkage, tow, and rod ends haven't been messed with (with exception of the drag link) and the truck was aligned prior to lifting, alignment would be a waste of time and money for a solid axle, leaf sprung truck.

Get the drag link angle down with a DPA first. That will likely solve your issues. Then address your bushings and look for worn rod ends. Caster can effect bump steer if it's real negative, but a 4" kit with proper pinion angle is not going to put your caster so far off that it becomes a problem.

A 4" lift on an FSJ hardly requires diddly squat other than longer brake lines, shocks, and a DPA which some folks don't always feel they need. If the lift kit didn't come with pinion angle shims, seperately or built into the spring, you might want to throw some in there.


Thanks CutterN55.. Where do I buy pinion angle shims?
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  #17  
Old 03-25-2014, 08:00 PM
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will e will e is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earlb74

Well if it drives funny it sure looks good doing it!

I did the DPA on my lift after the fact and found it to be helpful.
I also replaced the rag joint steering with u-joints. You can buy the shaft from BJ's (expensive) or do a search on using xj parts on this site.
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  #18  
Old 03-26-2014, 11:01 AM
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earlb74 earlb74 is offline
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Thanks Will E, I installed the DPA after mine as well. Looking in to the rag joint upgrade as we speak.
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  #19  
Old 03-26-2014, 04:43 PM
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CutterN55 CutterN55 is offline
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Most 4x4 parts retailers sell them. I've seen them on Amazon, eBay, and several of the common retailers. Google is your friend.
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