'80 Wagoneer Limited (AMC 360)

[Dylan Rogers]

I recently purchased this Wagoneer from a farm for $460. I purchased it without being able to start it or even seeing if it would turn over. There were plenty of nests (both from animals and previous mechanics) all over.

I pulled plugs, put in Marvel Mystery Oil, and cleaned up some animal nests. I could then turn the engine with a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. I through a battery in to see if it would turn over. It just "clicked." I cleaned up battery connectors and grounds and it turned over. I checked for spark and found it was sporadic. I replaced the wire from the coil to the cap and seemed to have normal spark. However, it still wouldn't start. After re-checking for spark, I discovered I no longer was getting anything. I believe the coil connectors were too corroded, so I tried a "bolt-on" style coil and once again had consistent spark. I poured some Jack Daniels down her throat (kidding, just gasoline) and she fired right up for a few seconds. This just enough of energy for the ole girl to out the rats nest from the tailpipe.

Before servicing the fuel components, I decided getting the brakes to function was important (and a priority). I started by bleeding the rear brakes until I noticed the pedal was still soft after bleeding with the bleeder closed. I walked to the front of the vehicle and discovered a massive puddle of brake fluid dripping from under the radiator onto the garage floor.

Some relevant background information is this had a plow attached to the front before I purchased it. The seller had torched the mounts off along with two (what appear to be) brake lines running towards the bumper. I had originally thought these were hydraulic lines of some sort to operate the plow lift.

*****NEED HELP: This is the part I am currently stuck on and looking for some advice. Does anyone know if the Wagoneers have brake lines running to the front bumper area from the factory or was it added afterwards? Either way, does anyone know of a good way to plug these or repair them in some way? There are fluids all over the underside and I can't tell where the lines lead. Any info is greatly appreciated!*******

[SOLSAKS]

good project

I like the limited Wagoneers

also really like that years rim design

good luck.

wish I had neighbors cool e-nuff to have a wagoneer parked in front of the house.

I am the only cool one in that regard in my whole town....haha

dave in NC

[FleetFox]

Yes there is a hard line that runs around the inside of the front of the frame.

[/url]0302192347 by highsiera

Given the age and condition of your vehicle you may just want to consider the "investment" in a complete set of hard lines from Inline Tube or BJs. If you do i would also buy a new proportioning valve at the same time as you are likely to bodger the old one removing the existing lines. Last note would be to order the standard metal lines vs the stainless. The stainless are a harder metal and if you're not patient, it's very easy to deform the brass seats in the valve and other connections.

Not trying to preach, just experience talking. Plus brakes are important, these trucks don't stop as well as new vehicles, even when everything is up to spec.

Fleet Fox

[SOLSAKS]

I second that

every restoration I have done,....

there was a call to inline tube, ...and I always get the proportioning valve

I use stainless, but I am not the installer either,.....

I have always said it is the cheapest resto part you can buy for a project

and does the most good, STOPPING !

dave

[Dylan Rogers]

Thanks, Dave! I don't have much to compare to, but I like the rims and limited's, as well.


Fleet Fox, I appreciate your photograph for reference (super helpful). Also, thank you for all the information and tips. I am always open to learning from others.

[Dylan Rogers]

Based on your photo, Fleet Fox, I realize I'm missing the front lateral frame section. The previous owner torched off an attached snowplow before I bought it and must have cut the section out (where the hard line runs up front). I didn't realize there was a section of frame there but it makes a lot of sense now. Looks like I have a bit of welding to do.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/khf16ko59tqdsz1/20201209_175745.jpg?dl=0

[rang-a-stang]

I rebuilt my front brake lines. My local Napa has the dark green coated brake lines in straight lines for about $12 for a 6' length. I bought 2 of those, and some fittings. I also ordered some stainless rock guard from amazon:
This stuff
If you get two 6' sticks, you will have plenty left over. If you get one 6 foot stick, you won't have enough.

The dark green stuff you can bend by hand. Take your time and you can make your own. You will also need a brake line flaring tool. I have this one and it works OK. There are others and most are better but I do not do brake/fuel lines often enough to buy a better one.
Amazon brake tool

If your truck sat that long, you are probably going to get good at replacing hard lines. All my soft lines had siezed to the hard lines so everytime I tried to remove the soft line to replace it, it destroyed the hard line. Also, you may have some gooked up fuel lines.

So figure $20 in brake lines, $15 in fittings, $15 in rock guard, and a $20 tool. For some reason $70 seems really exsponsive when you paid $465 for your truck!

[bluehwy]

Based on your photo, Fleet Fox, I realize I'm missing the front lateral frame section. The previous owner torched off an attached snowplow before I bought it and must have cut the section out (where the hard line runs up front). I didn't realize there was a section of frame there but it makes a lot of sense now. Looks like I have a bit of welding to do.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/khf16ko59t...75745.jpg?dl=0

MAN ALIVE! Give a guy a torch... Looks like ya got a cool project anyway.

[Dylan Rogers]

Rang, thank you so much for the info. I'm definitely all for making my own. I haven't done any work on lines before but certainly have a DIY spirit when it comes to saving money. I never realized the rock guards were separate from the lines. I'll definitely order those, too. $70 does seem like a good amount compared to the purchase price! I am expecting the fuel lines and tank to have fallen victim to the varnished gas of years passed.

Blue, I am wishing that torch didn't exist! I would have rather paid a bit extra with leaving the plow on than have to replace the brake line and weld in a new section on the frame. Oh well... Maybe I'll add a front hitch receiver into the new piece I weld in.

[bluehwy]

Rang, thank you so much for the info. I'm definitely all for making my own. I haven't done any work on lines before but certainly have a DIY spirit when it comes to saving money. I never realized the rock guards were separate from the lines. I'll definitely order those, too. $70 does seem like a good amount compared to the purchase price! I am expecting the fuel lines and tank to have fallen victim to the varnished gas of years passed.

Blue, I am wishing that torch didn't exist! I would have rather paid a bit extra with leaving the plow on than have to replace the brake line and weld in a new section on the frame. Oh well... Maybe I'll add a front hitch receiver into the new piece I weld in.

Now we're talking!

[rang-a-stang]

...Maybe I'll add a front hitch receiver into the new piece I weld in.

That is a FANTASTIC Idea! Buy a used receiver on craigslist for cheap, cut it to fit between the frame horns and weld it in! That would be MUCH stronger than stock, give you a front receiver to mount stuff, be pretty darn cheap, and pretty darn straight forward! I have a buddy that bought a cheapie Square Body 'burb that had front end damage. Rather than trying to find a replacement frame chunk, that's what he did too. I think he got the receiver on craigslist for a the back of a mini-van or something like that because it was like $25 and really wide.

[Dylan Rogers]

I got a bit discouraged with trying to get the old hardline off, so I decided to just "bridge" the old torched line with a new section of hardline. I got it all connected and flushed the brake fluid. The old stuff was really brown and nasty, which was no surprise. Tonight I'm going to see if the old beast will run on its own. If it will, I'm going to try driving it to fill the fuel tank with some fresh gas to dilute the old stuff. I'll add some Sea-Foam, as well.

[Dylan Rogers]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mRtcozVAgqUpS3rn8

It runs! I am waiting for a radiator in the mail and then I'll see how it drives. I forgot about the radiator... Important piece! I need that before going to the gas station. However, I am quite impressed with how well it runs with 5+ year old fuel and having not truly ran in 5 years, especially at 35 degrees (F).

[rang-a-stang]

AMAZING!!! Did you see the sparking by the master cylinder? I would fox that ASAP!!!

Did it take much to get her going? Did you watch for oil pressure?

[Dylan Rogers]

AMAZING!!! Did you see the sparking by the master cylinder? I would fox that ASAP!!!

Did it take much to get her going? Did you watch for oil pressure?

Thanks, Rang! The sparking was a spark tester (it totally looks concerning though haha). I had it connected because I replaced the coil connector and put the old Ford coil back in, since only the connector was bad. On the topic of dangerous sparking, I probed a bunch of the bare wires in the engine bay and found one with power even with the ignition switch off. I don't have any idea as to what it goes to, but it is orange and routes from the wiring harness. I wrapped it with electric tape for now to prevent any fires (hopefully).

It did not take much to get it going, actually! I was pleasantly surprised! I connected the electric fuel pump to the "hot" wire under the hood the build some fuel pressure, and then I cranked the ignition and it fired. It seems the only reason the engine wouldn't start was bad connections (corroded battery and ground cables and finally corroded coil connectors). I cannot wait for tomorrow so I can get the radiator installed.