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  #1  
Old 12-31-2017, 10:58 AM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
1986 GW-Restoration+TFI-Slow Build

So, I have a 1986 GW in mostly stock form. Comes stock with 5.9, etc. Rear AMC20. Selectro Hubs in the front. I purchased this from a car auction which my father-in-law owns and operates in TN. My initial investment was pretty low as it has the dreaded frame rot and 180k miles on original powertrain. I have a monthly fun money budget of only $250 to spend on whatever I want, so that will be going directly to the waggy from here on out. My build plan is mostly get it functional and mostly rust-free. I am not trying to do any major mods. With a rusted frame that will be patched, I am under no illusions of this turning into one of those 50k restorations. I just want to make it look good, run reliably, and of the quality that I can take it to some small town car shows and not be too embarrassed by it. I am not a car professional by any means; I am a school teacher. However, I am trying to learn and do most of this on my own with help from here, friends, family, and other forums. I will be going slowly, and any help, comments, or encouragement is appreciated.

Initial plan of progression
1. Frame Patch-kit from TGW
2. Engine/Trans removal
a. seals, cleaning, basic not rebuild overhaul of wear parts
3. Blast and repaint frame
4. Running parts-brakes, axles
5. interior
a. floor pans, seat stitching, armrest
6. exterior body

This will take probably a couple years, maybe more, who knows what kind of surprises I will get it. Thanks for the follow.
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  #2  
Old 01-01-2018, 09:23 PM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
So,I got a bunch of odds and ends stuff started today. Wiper arms removed and repainted, plug wires removed, TFI distributor cap and coils mounted, and my new ignition box possibly wired up.
I got an Accel 61212 for Christmas from the wife, who is supportive of my current addiction, and I have been trying to figure out how to wire it up.

I found this on here from the tech library. It it what I should do?
You will have seven wires coming out from your MSD 6A

One heavy red - goes to +12v
One heavy black - goes to good ground point
small red - this goes to the wire that was originally on the coils + terminal (or ignintion switched +12v)
orange - goes to +coil
small black - goes to -coil
white goes to the wire that was originally connected to the -coil IF you are using your original ignition amplifier. If you intend to use your MSD as the only ignition amplifier the white on is not used.
The last on is the magnetic trigger connection, this will have a plug that will connect to the plug off your distributor. If this is not the case there is one green and one violet wire that goes to this plug, one goes to the +trigger connection and the other goes to the -trigger. If you connect these wrong, no harm will happened but your timing will be way off
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  #3  
Old 01-02-2018, 08:36 PM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
Here is a couple of pics the Jeep.
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  #4  
Old 01-03-2018, 09:07 AM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
I got a bunch of parts for Christmas this year, and as my wiper motor did not work at all, a freebie was a nice gift. Installation was simple.
1. Unplug
2. Take Three exterior bolts out
3. Go into the dash. Way back near the firewall is a metal bar with a j-clip on it. Remove it. Pull metal bar off. There will be a nut that is in the middle of the three bolts that you already removed. Remove it. I think it was something like 14mm. Can't remember exactly.
4. Pull out old motor.
5. Remove gasket
6. Remove final screws
7. Reverse process with new motor.

I chose to solder mine back up. I do not like plug connectors at all. They just look like an accident waiting to happen, and I have been soldering for many years and I just enjoy it. Here is a picture of the completed motor.
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  #5  
Old 01-06-2018, 12:33 PM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
Alright well, it is time to start dealing with the nasty side of things. I have a good bit of rot on the frame, so I am getting ready to pull the complete driveline and the tank and start with the frame restore. I am currently working on getting the bolts that hold the tank out. I have PB Blasted the bejesus out of them, but that has been mostly ineffective. I am weary of cutting them as I will be sending sparks directly near the fuel tank. Anyways, here is what I am up against. I have the kit from TGW, so I will post pictures during the process.
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:49 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
Posts: 457
great outdoors wagoneer

hello,

i like your wagoneer, especially the color.

looks like the one in the john candy/ dan akroyd movie

"the great outdoors"

i admire your determination,....

you got one repair done already,

good job.

keep us posted , thanx for the photos.

dave in NC
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SOLSAKS - dave
1988 grand wagoneer
1990 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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  #7  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:29 PM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
Thanks for the reply. It is slow going while I am waiting on a tool to get here. I have a buddy who is coming over next saturday to remove engine, trans, the tank, pretty much everything. Once I get that going, I should be able to make some serious progress. Tank removal is a PITA. All the bolts are extremely rusted, but I am afraid about using a cutoff wheel that close to the tank. I don't want to blow anyone or anything up, so I bought a bolt cut-off tool and am going to try it this Sunday if I get time.
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  #8  
Old 01-12-2018, 09:00 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
Posts: 457
sounds good
i am a cautious person too,...
fire = bad,...
explosion = worse !!!

glad to hear your wife is supportive too, makes things less stressful
and you both will enjoy it once done.

and you will be even more proud of it
since you are doing work yourself.

good luck and be careful.

keep us informed.

dave in NC
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SOLSAKS - dave
1988 grand wagoneer
1990 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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  #9  
Old 01-14-2018, 09:14 PM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
Didn't get much done this weekend since it was my birthday and we were away, but with a little patience I was able to get all of the nuts off and removed from the tank today. All that is left is the actual physical removal of it. Engine, trans, transfer and tank go out this coming sat and it is off for some frame patch. Gonna winch it up the rollback and take it up to the big shop for some that. I will post a bunch of pics. Thanks for follows and Keep on Jeepin' on.
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  #10  
Old 01-21-2018, 03:38 PM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
Well, I had big plans, but apparently getting your wisdom teeth is a big of a PITA! So, no heavy work for me this weekend. However, I did get some small stuff done. I removed and finished installing a modern CD player in the car with AUX so that the wife will have something other than Neil Young to listen to. Also, I am looking for a part for the dash. In the second and third picture, you will see what I mean that I need. It was like that when I bought it. I am open to some custom work if need be.

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  #11  
Old 01-28-2018, 09:05 AM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
It has been a few days, but I finally have the tank all of the way out and I am ready to start sandblasting/prepping for the structural repairs to be done. I have a couple of questions.
1. If I go with a rear blazer or f150 tank, do I have to put the skidplate back that held in the fuel tank? mine isn't in great shape, and I have no desire to put it back/refab it if I do not have to.
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2018, 10:48 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,064
I don't see any reason. Would just collect dirt.
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Sic friatur crustulum

'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #13  
Old 01-28-2018, 04:34 PM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
Here is what I am working with. I plan on cutting all that I can out. Then I am going to get it as clean as possible via sandblasting with a spot blaster. I have the TGW frame repair kit. I have a welder buddy who is gonna stick it. In progress pics soon. My daily is getting some attention this week, but hopefully the next few weeks will have it all welded up. After welding, epoxy prime, I am gonna epoxy prime it all and finish it with some undercoating.
Here are some pics post tank drop.

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  #14  
Old 02-19-2018, 11:38 AM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
So, it has been a while. Life has thrown me a bunch of curve balls lately, but thankfully I got a full day to work on the 86er this weekend. Front clip completely removed, got the cutting and grinding mostly done for the welding of the patches. Front shocks are coming off to be replaced. They are totally done. I will be doing a little at a time for a while. Going to completely redo all brakes while I am at it. Here are some pics from this weekend.
That was the inside before we cleaned it up. I might do one final sandblasting to clean it up a bit more.
That is mostly cleaned up. Everything structurally weak has been removed.
I have considered (key word considered) cutting this body mount out and fabbing up a new one. My fabbing tools are a little lacking other than a welder and a grinder though. Anyways, I have unlimited access to a Lincoln Square Wave 175 Tig which also will arc weld, which is what we will be doing. My buddy, who did a lot of the prep work on this, is a pretty experienced welder, and he is the one who will be doing the actual welding. 1/8 7018 rods is what we plan to go with. More pics to follow.
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2018, 01:40 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 1,944
Good times! Thanks for posting! We love to see progress like this.
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(Cherokee Build Thread)
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  #16  
Old 02-23-2018, 08:17 AM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28




So, I got the front clip removed last weekend too, just didn't have any pictures. I am currently working on a few small odds and ends until I can get the frame all welded up. But I have a few questions that maybe someone on here could help me with.
1. In the second picture, I have my alternator. How do I tell which alternator I have? It says Remy-Delco on the back, but I didn't see a part number. Rockauto has so many options for the Delco. I have fried two batteries and am going to either rebuild or replace it in an effort to see if that is the cause.

2. In picture four there is what appears to be a vacuum hose that has been cut off by the firewall. Is it a vacuum hose, and if so, where does it go? Maybe this is why I can't get my defrost and non-ac air working.

3. In picture three, there is a part at the 11 o'clock position in relation to the oil filter. It appears to have a wire running to it. What is it? Oil pressure sending unit/part is all that I could figure.

I will sit back and wait to be learned. Also, I appreciate all of the kind comments and feedback.
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  #17  
Old 02-23-2018, 08:30 AM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Jan 10, 2016
Location: Burbank Ca.
Posts: 671
Pic 4: I believe that's a drain for your heater or AC.
Pic 3: Oil pressure sending unit.

I can't help on the alternator. Nice progress btw.
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  #18  
Old 02-23-2018, 09:17 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
Posts: 457
good progress
i cant add anything about the mechanical questions
sounds like good advice so far,....

and someone is bound to know the answer to the altenator question.

keep us posted on progress.

dave in NC
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SOLSAKS - dave
1988 grand wagoneer
1990 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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  #19  
Old 02-23-2018, 11:18 AM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
Thanks for the info fellas. Any advice on removing exhaust manifold?
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  #20  
Old 02-23-2018, 08:56 PM
Stuartbowen Stuartbowen is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Mar 15, 2015
Location: Crossville, Tn
Posts: 28
Got all four banjo bolts successfully out the first time on the passenger side, but I had no such luck on the driver side. I think there are some pictures of that from before. How do I get those out?
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