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  #1  
Old 05-08-2007, 10:47 PM
colman colman is offline
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74 J10 (insert name here)

going to pick it up on monday but here is as is

74 j10- 360, T18, D20, d44 f/r w/ 3.54 sitting on 38.5" gumbo mudders

plans:
paint olive drab
fix some rust
weld rear
fender trim some more
replace lots of seals and tuneup etc
replace bed with military trailer bed i have
lower gears in t-case (use guts from a spicer 18 possibly)

down the line:
c&c 14 bolt w' 4.10 (already have)
chevy d60 (wish i had)
shorten wb/frame
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 97042.jpg (61.9 KB, 115 views)
File Type: jpg j10withbed.JPG (31.7 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4094b.JPG (51.0 KB, 144 views)

Last edited by colman : 05-08-2007 at 10:49 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-08-2007, 11:11 PM
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bigun bigun is offline
 
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If you are using the trailer as a bed you might want to clone a set of M715 fenders to go on the front.
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  #3  
Old 05-08-2007, 11:42 PM
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Stuka Stuka is offline
 
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C&C 14FF wont work under a J-Truck. The WMS is too narrow, even if you put the springs under the frame, the frame is too wide to clear the tires.
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1981 J10 AMC 258 with TFI and Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with a BJ's Aluminum Radiator, T176, NP208, D44/M23 with 4.56 gears and Detroit Locker, 6" lift, 33x12.50 TSL's, BJ's Offroad Rear Bumper.

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  #4  
Old 05-08-2007, 11:48 PM
colman colman is offline
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i guess i will keep that to swap into my cj5 if i ever get around to it or maybe the cj7 body and frame that i have in a pasture.
isn't the wms on a j10 64" in the rear and 65" in the front. the c&c is 63" i figured 1 inch on each side wasn't a big deal. i guess i was wrong.
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  #5  
Old 05-09-2007, 05:59 AM
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WMS on J truck rears is around 67". The Jeep truck frames are about 10" wider then GM frames out back, that's what makes it impossible to fit.
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  #6  
Old 05-09-2007, 07:21 AM
colman colman is offline
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thanks for the fyi
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  #7  
Old 05-09-2007, 08:56 AM
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porkchop porkchop is offline
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Would you be willing to get rid of the trailer? It looks like a good canidate for a restore. If not the trailer then how about the bows, corners and uprights on it? I also have some M715 fenders you may be interested in.
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  #8  
Old 05-09-2007, 09:44 AM
colman colman is offline
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i can let go of the bows and uprights. i won't be using them. if you are refering to the metal corners sorry. i'm going to cut it up to make it smaller so it works for a pickup bed. send me a more specific request of allof the parts you want and an offer. a friend of mine is from corpus and will be coming home soon. If i don't miss him then they could catch a ride to you on his truck.
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  #9  
Old 05-09-2007, 11:26 PM
colman colman is offline
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so i got the trailer home and holly crap, that thing is much bigger than i expected. i guess i should have known since it is designed to be towed behind a 2.5 ton truck
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  #10  
Old 05-10-2007, 07:37 AM
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porkchop porkchop is offline
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So the trailer is a M105 and not the M101?
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  #11  
Old 05-10-2007, 10:55 AM
colman colman is offline
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M105 A2 I think i will look at the tag later tonight when we offload it from the trailer

Last edited by colman : 05-10-2007 at 10:57 AM.
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  #12  
Old 05-10-2007, 12:32 PM
colman colman is offline
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It is an M105 A1, i looked at the data tag
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  #13  
Old 05-11-2007, 06:46 AM
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Here's a pic of a J3000 fit with a c&c drw D70, the post mounts were moved to the inside of the frame. The pic is the wheel to frame clearance:
(don't expect to be able to fit a OEM bed without modifying the wheelwells... but that wasn't your plan anywaz)


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  #14  
Old 05-11-2007, 07:33 AM
colman colman is offline
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so if it is lifted and has some decently offset wheels then the axle may work. i will probably just sell/trade my 14 bolt for a wider one. we will see. i may keep the stock 44's for quite a while if i'm nice to the skinny pedal, at least till i find a front 60

Last edited by colman : 05-11-2007 at 07:37 AM.
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  #15  
Old 05-11-2007, 03:55 PM
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Yeah, ideally you want to be able to keep the same offset on all the rims, that isn't the case on this particular truck, plus the springs had to be inboard inside the frame or the mounting plates probably would not have cleared the brake backing plates. For some folk a cheap/free C&C axle is worth it to run like this if they don't have to fit the bed and it does keep the tread width down in a dually set up also.
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  #16  
Old 05-19-2007, 08:36 PM
colman colman is offline
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well i got it into my driveway this afternoon and after noticing a detroit no slip sticker in the glove box i popped the rear diff cover and found a detroit in there, i assume it works which i will find out soon. now i know i got a good deal.
still going to ditch the ford bed but the m105 trailer was to big so now i will make it a trailer and make a flat bed for the j10
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  #17  
Old 05-19-2007, 08:59 PM
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If it has a detroit, it may have had the gears swapped out too. 3.54's with 38.5's would make for a rather gutless truck. May want to check the gears too.
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1981 J10 AMC 258 with TFI and Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb with a BJ's Aluminum Radiator, T176, NP208, D44/M23 with 4.56 gears and Detroit Locker, 6" lift, 33x12.50 TSL's, BJ's Offroad Rear Bumper.

1975 Cherokee *Sold*
1989 XJ Limited *Sold*
2005 KJ Limited 3.7, 42RLE, NP242
2008 JK 3.8, 6sp, NP241, 2.5", 33's, 4.56's
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  #18  
Old 05-19-2007, 09:59 PM
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Nice score.
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***I can set you up with hydroboost for your brakes: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106056
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  #19  
Old 05-20-2007, 08:05 AM
colman colman is offline
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i did the math. it has 3.54 gears. it also has a t-18 with the granny low so that helps. since it already has a detroit and the carrier brake is 3.73 i guess i will put lower gears in the t-case. time to keep my eyes on the lookout for a cheap set of 3.15 gears for the dana 20.
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  #20  
Old 05-22-2007, 09:37 PM
colman colman is offline
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after getting it home and having some fun with a sawzall and a grinder i ended up with this. i moved the bumber up 3 inches and in 5. after the a pillar on one side fell out and the other was about to i decided to go roofless. when i make a cage i will add some sort of roof so it doesn't look goofy. scrapped the bed and the rear bumper etc after the spring hanger. now to fix the non existent floor and rebuild the motor and all new brakes. so much for a cheap jeep. if i'm lucky i will get away with new rings and bearings and maybe rebuild the heads. the truck was flooded and sat for 9 months before i got it. atleast it looks mean and fun right now
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File Type: jpg CIMG0558b.JPG (95.4 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg CIMG0559b.JPG (95.2 KB, 17 views)

Last edited by colman : 05-22-2007 at 10:01 PM.
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