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  #1  
Old 11-03-2010, 05:40 AM
Greenfish Greenfish is offline
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another tailgate switch question - Should i have hot?

Working on getting my rear tailgate window working. The motor is tested and good and I have power at the connection of the motor. I'm thinking of bypassing the rear switch and just using the dash switch.

I dont however have any power at the dash switch at all. Should I have at least one hot at the dash?
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  #2  
Old 11-03-2010, 08:13 AM
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Brizio Brizio is offline
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In the tailgate also you have another switch, the security one, that allowed to make the window work when the tailgate is close only.
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  #3  
Old 11-03-2010, 08:51 AM
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Billygoat Billygoat is offline
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Just went thru this on my Cherokee and I think with both switches "off" or in the netraul position that both the leads to the motor are hot, the switches disconnect 1 hot lead and make it a ground to complete the circuit.
Either that or it is the opposite condition...
My tailgate switch was shot so it gave me goofy readings until I took it out of the loop, the front and rear switch are in series.
I then used a couple DPST relays and a DPDT switch in the tailgate.

Hope I didn't confuse you too much.
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:52 AM
Greenfish Greenfish is offline
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I guess what i'm saying is when I pull the switch out of the dash and test the plug in which it goes into none of the outlets are hot. Should any of them be hot?
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1991 Grand Wagoneer, Rebuilt 360, Eddy Perf Manifold, Razor Grill
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda (my baby)
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  #5  
Old 11-03-2010, 10:14 AM
Topgun2mo Topgun2mo is offline
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Look at this diagram:
http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/90_numeric...8W_Page-41.jpg

Should be read wire going into the back of the female plug where the switch plugs into.
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Old 11-03-2010, 10:33 AM
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710 Burner 710 Burner is offline
 
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Yes.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandWag&Prix
Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.


'79 Cherokee Chief "Junaluska"
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  #7  
Old 11-03-2010, 12:34 PM
Greenfish Greenfish is offline
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Thanks guys, Looks like i have some trouble shooting to do under the dash before I do anything else.
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Old 11-03-2010, 04:56 PM
Greenfish Greenfish is offline
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ok so I got home and did some more under dash investigation.

My GW does not have the 12v red going to the switch. Here is what it do have. Six slots one is blank. Two black diagonal from each other. A brown and tan next to each other, and a purple wire diagonal from the blank. None are hot

Blank--Black
Brown---Tan
Black---Purple
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1970 Plymouth 'Cuda (my baby)
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Old 11-03-2010, 05:10 PM
Topgun2mo Topgun2mo is offline
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Purple is hot then. Look at the diagram again( the dotted in female plug diagram next to the switch diagram.
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'90 Grand Wagoneer
SOA, CUCV 14 bolt rear, 4.56 and Detroit, Looking for HP Dana 60 for front, 1" Body lift, 44044 Rancho Springs up front, Dodge 4x4 Rear leafs and shackles, BJs 1" lift shackles in front.
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  #10  
Old 11-03-2010, 05:13 PM
Greenfish Greenfish is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topgun2mo
Purple is hot then. Look at the diagram again( the dotted in female plug diagram next to the switch diagram.

I would have thought that but when I apply the tester i get nothing. Ill have to investigate why its not showing hot.
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  #11  
Old 11-03-2010, 05:30 PM
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stonehengeheels stonehengeheels is offline
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Not trying be smart or anything but do you have the key on?
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2010, 05:52 PM
Greenfish Greenfish is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stonehengeheels
Not trying be smart or anything but do you have the key on?

So you are saying its not a constant hot? DOH!

its dark out now, ill try it tomorrow.
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1991 Grand Wagoneer, Rebuilt 360, Eddy Perf Manifold, Razor Grill
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  #13  
Old 11-03-2010, 06:43 PM
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men in black men in black is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenfish
I'm thinking of bypassing the rear switch and just using the dash switch.

Thats what I did

The red lines are how I did it. Just remove the switch and
butt splice those wire together.

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  #14  
Old 11-03-2010, 06:59 PM
Greenfish Greenfish is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by men in black
Thats what I did

The red lines are how I did it. Just remove the switch and
butt splice those wire together.


Yeah, but I need to fix my first problem first and get the dash switch working. ONce that is done my plan is to bypass the rear switch, that is of course unless the whole thing starts working once I fix the dash switch.
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1991 Grand Wagoneer, Rebuilt 360, Eddy Perf Manifold, Razor Grill
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda (my baby)
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  #15  
Old 11-03-2010, 07:16 PM
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Greeeeenberg Greeeeenberg is offline
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Seems like we are chasing down the same problem. I got power at the switch and switch has conitinuty but the window doesn't move. My rear switch does work with the key, but i would like to get the dash switch working. Let me know what you find. My senior design project for college is eating up a lot more time then what i thought it would. I was gonna rip into the tailgate this weekend and make sure wires from the dash switch make it back there. My beat is someone along the line forgot to hook the front switch back up after reinstalling the rear motor or something. Mind you mine is an 87.

http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/86/86_FSJ_...ramPage4-3.gif

Good luck, Ill check back.
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  #16  
Old 11-18-2010, 07:20 PM
Greenfish Greenfish is offline
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ok got my window working. I confirmed that I did in fact have power at the dash switch while the key is on. Once that was done I just bypassed the rear switch just like the above schematic suggested.

I now have a working rear window at the dash. Rear switch is bypassed and I'm fine with that.

One thing make sure your window moves free up and down and grease the mechanism as well. Make sure it isnt rubbing anywhere. Mine was bound up pretty good but once i got it moving and lubed it up it worked great.
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1970 Plymouth 'Cuda (my baby)
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