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  #1  
Old 10-26-2010, 01:48 PM
charleslriddle charleslriddle is offline
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6.2 700r4 conversion in 88GW

This is my story of the diesel conversion of the GW. I have many questions, and wanted to document the process on the forum so others can get answers to what I've posted. Building the knowledge base.

Donor: 1991 GMC Suburban 6.2 diesel non turbo

I've read all the threads for the past 2 years planning the great conversion.

Below is a picture of the Donor towing the Donee, which is now stripped of the 360 and 727. I kept the np 229 and will use the novak adaptors.

Thanks everyone in advance for your help!

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  #2  
Old 10-26-2010, 01:52 PM
charleslriddle charleslriddle is offline
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First Question - Fuel Lines Set Up

The first thing I am thinking through is the fuel line set up. Can I use the lines sized as they are? Can I use rubber hose, braided flex line, or hard plumb the line? Where should I put the electric fuel pump? How should I wire the Fuel Pump? Do I need a safety shut off?

Thanks
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88 GW Black w/ Mint Maroon Interior (6.2 700r4 conversion in progress)


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  #3  
Old 10-26-2010, 02:20 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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Personally I'd keep the barn door dsl burb and shake off that thing hanging from it's butt.
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  #4  
Old 10-26-2010, 05:29 PM
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Greeeeenberg Greeeeenberg is offline
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Agree with Joe. That burb looks clean.
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  #5  
Old 10-26-2010, 07:46 PM
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KaiserMan KaiserMan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe
Personally I'd keep the barn door dsl burb and shake off that thing hanging from it's butt.

Hate to say it, but ditto. Unless that Suburban is a rotted train wreck in person, I'd drive the burb and find a drive train elsewhere.
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  #6  
Old 10-26-2010, 07:59 PM
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710 Burner 710 Burner is offline
 
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My plan is to use the frame mounted lift pump and 3/8" hard line, but the stock 5/16 line would probably work good.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandWag&Prix
Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.


'79 Cherokee Chief "Junaluska"
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  #7  
Old 10-27-2010, 05:35 AM
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The PIG Smith The PIG Smith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiserMan
Hate to say it, but ditto. Unless that Suburban is a rotted train wreck in person, I'd drive the burb and find a drive train elsewhere.
X3
If the Suburban is 3/4 ton rated, then by all means keep it, drive it and use it.

I ran into this same issue with my Diesel powered van.
Use the 6.2L from the van for a FSJ project or not.
The van was in too good of shape to part out, so I fixed it and am now driving it.
A one ton extended length cargo that sips Diesel fuel has been super handy.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrodoh
...but if it works, I wouldn't touch it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindel
Best laid plans, yada yada yada...
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  #8  
Old 10-27-2010, 06:15 AM
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710 Burner 710 Burner is offline
 
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I failed to mention that my donor is a '97, so that is why it has an electric frame mounted lift pump. The lift pump on a 6.2 is typically a mechanical unit mounted to the block.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandWag&Prix
Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.


'79 Cherokee Chief "Junaluska"
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  #9  
Old 10-27-2010, 08:14 AM
charleslriddle charleslriddle is offline
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Burban Rotted

The suburban has 255000 miles on the chassis. I may keep it, but I'm definitely taking the 6.2 out of it. It was rebuilt and put in the suburban by a diesel mechanic - so I know it's good.

The suburban is 3/4 ton. Plus it has all kinds of upgrades. It was an off road paramedic truck. Put stock seats where the stretcher was. All kinds of interior lighting and switches.

This thing is rotted to sh it. So - It may go to parts when I'm finished. Unless I find another 6.2 to put back in it.

I towed the GW from the cuts of Philadelphia across many shady places about 40 miles away to my place, and the motor was strong. I'm stoked about putting this beast in the luxury of the GW.
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  #10  
Old 10-27-2010, 08:22 AM
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The PIG Smith The PIG Smith is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charleslriddle
I towed the GW from the cuts of Philadelphia across many shady places about 40 miles away to my place, and the motor was strong.
Do not let the naysayers beat you down.
The 6.2L in my van runs strong as well.
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2005 Grand Cherokee Limited - HEMI! Current Daily Driver
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1981 J20: Commercial flat bed. Long term Project: RUST! No Cab Brow!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrodoh
...but if it works, I wouldn't touch it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindel
Best laid plans, yada yada yada...
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  #11  
Old 10-27-2010, 09:32 AM
charleslriddle charleslriddle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The PIG Smith
Do not let the naysayers beat you down.
The 6.2L in my van runs strong as well.


... and The Legendary Pig Smith speaks. Heed his word!
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Charles
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  #12  
Old 10-29-2010, 12:03 PM
charleslriddle charleslriddle is offline
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Fuel Set Up - Plan

OK- Here is my plan for the diesel swap fuel set up.

The lines (feed and return) run up the drivers side rail on the GW. The 6.2 needs them on the passenger side. I thought about redoing all the lines and running them up the pass side, but I'm not going to do that. I'm using the existing lines - connecting where they terminate in the engine bay - and crossing over (probably with rubber fuel lines) under the radiator crossmember.

Any objections or comments to running rubber fuel hose along that radiator crossmsmber to get it over to pass side?

I'm also going to set up an electrical fuel pump in the inside frame behind the gas tank in the area of the GW spare tire bay.

I'm not 100% about taking the mechanical fuel pump out of service. I may run a loop around the electrical pump so the mechanical pump does not have to suck through the electrical pump. I'm looking into a fuel check valve for the loop so the electrical pump does not short circuit through the bypass.

I may just use the electric pump to prime / bleed the fuel system clamping off the bypass when priming. Then normal duty i'll open the bypass and let the mechanical pump do it's job. Leaving the electrical pump off.
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  #13  
Old 10-29-2010, 03:10 PM
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rustywagoneers_com rustywagoneers_com is offline
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Electric pump for the win.
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  #14  
Old 10-29-2010, 10:33 PM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Diesel fuel rots rubber. Get the best quality (fuel injection) hose you can afford.
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  #15  
Old 10-30-2010, 08:31 AM
charleslriddle charleslriddle is offline
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Fuel Lines

10-4 on the rubber fuel injection line $6/ft.
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Charles
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  #16  
Old 10-30-2010, 06:11 PM
charleslriddle charleslriddle is offline
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Fuel Conversion is near complete / NP 229 Question

Everything is nice and pretty. The toughest thing was coring out the filler tube so I can put diesel in it (the spout is wider). I used a 1 3/8" core drill bit I hade laying around. Then blew out all the filings with the compressor.

There is a vent tube connected to metal line coming out the top of the NP 229 where did that connect to / or where should it have connected to? I offered the engine and Trans to a guy if he took it out, so I didn't see where the hell this line connected???

I figured out what it is - it's a vent line that ran up near the cylinder head and was open to atmosphere.
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=34541
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88 GW Black w/ Mint Maroon Interior (6.2 700r4 conversion in progress)


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Last edited by charleslriddle : 10-31-2010 at 06:56 AM.
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  #17  
Old 11-01-2010, 02:39 PM
charleslriddle charleslriddle is offline
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Diesel Swap Cooling Considerations

Background - I'm in process of converting the GW to 6.2GM diesel non turbo backed by 700r4.

Looks like money will fly from my pocket and I will buy the aluminum conversion radiator and electric fan set up from BJ's. That set up will provide me with coolant and trans coolant. I'm planning on keeping the aux trans cooler in line with the new rad. (or should the new BJ's be sufficient?)

I still need to handle the oil cooler. It looks like there is room for an oil cooler. Any thoughts on what is the proper size for the application?

Any comments on how other swappers handled their oil coolers?

Thanks in advance!
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2010, 06:53 AM
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710 Burner 710 Burner is offline
 
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My opinion...
I would put a metal line across the front and connect the ends/radius' with the rubber.
I love the comment about diesel rotting rubber lines. GM used alot of it. I have a rubber line running from the fuel filter to the IP under the intake.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandWag&Prix
Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.


'79 Cherokee Chief "Junaluska"
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  #19  
Old 11-03-2010, 07:33 AM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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My instruction re: rubber hose comes from my diesel VW TSM. Are you sure the GM lines are truly rubber? I just wish to err safely. Car fires suck.

cr, your cooling scheme sounds like it'd work. I ran into space constraints and had to move the radiator forward. I hope yours comes out better.

I got an oil cooler from a Grand Cherokee and first mounted it inside the driver's side hole in the front fascia (next to the headlight). Conncting the lines to the cooler there was problematic and resulted in a nice engine oil bath one dark day. I ended up putting the cooler under the ds floorboard, where it seems to working nicely.
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  #20  
Old 11-03-2010, 11:18 AM
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710 Burner 710 Burner is offline
 
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Hard to say. German rubber is strange stuff.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandWag&Prix
Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.


'79 Cherokee Chief "Junaluska"
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