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Old 09-07-2013, 09:33 PM
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squeaking/whistling after new altinator?

After several weeks of procrastination I finally got around to installing a new alternator since the old was was pretty much done for. I picked up a new Ultima 95 amp unit (part link below) from O'Reilly, switched out the pulley, and installed it with out any major problems. After wrapping everything up I took the jeep for a drive back to the parts store to test the new alternator and turn in the old one for the core charge and all went well.

However on the way home I began to notice a sort of whistling or slight metallic squeaking. After listening to it more I figured out it only occurs when in drive or reverse and when idling or driving below about 10 or 15 mph. It is also not a continuous sound nor dose it have a consistent rhythm like a loose belt might make

Anyone have and ideas because I don't really have a clue what it could be.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...eyword=01-1015
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  #2  
Old 09-08-2013, 02:44 PM
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The plot thickens!

Was driving around on the other side of town today when I noticed my oil pressure was quite low. I stopped and checked oil and had plenty so I kept going and finished what I needed to do on that side of town before heading back home. About 10 miles from the house I began to notice blue smoke trailing behind me. A quick pop of the hood and peak under the engine confirmed my suspicion, Bottom passenger side of the engine all around the oil filter, exhaust, and front diff was covered in oil.

Im going to soak it all down with degreaser and see what I can find. I have already checked the oil filter and it is on tight. Could the oil pump make a sound like what I hearing if its going bad?
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  #3  
Old 09-08-2013, 05:02 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Well

I'm still scratching my head on the first thread. Maybe there is a relationship. Thinking on this point could you have possibly pried on the oil housing when tightening your belt for the alternator & broke the housing for the oil Pump??? OMG
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Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
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  #4  
Old 09-08-2013, 06:50 PM
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OIL LEAK FOUND. Mystery sound still unknow

After cleaning the whole area around the filter I turned the engine on and had my dad watch the area for leaks. What we found was oil leaking out of the oil pressure warning light switch (took forever to figure out what the little bugger was) which goes in to the other side of a T fitting next to the oil pressure sensor. Im not sure if I accidentally hit it when installing the alternator or if its a coincidence that it chose this point in time to fail, either way I now know what to fix.

Here's the kicker tho. In addition to replacing the $10 switch, im also going to have to replace the $34 plug and wires thanks to the PO. According to the picture on the parts site I should have three wires. Well iv only got two. one is supposed to go to a fuse holder, but currently goes to nothing since the fuse holder is MIA. Where dose the other on go you ask? Why it has been cut and spliced to the wire coming off of the choke on the carburetor of course.

I think I now truly understand Ristows signature about unraveling the cable knit sweater.
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  #5  
Old 09-08-2013, 07:37 PM
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going to the choke??

sounds like some one put on a electric choke and chose that spot for keyed power ...

wouldn't that in turn affect the temp readings ???
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:56 PM
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mdill mdill is offline
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The switch is there on the newer ones (older , I don't remember what year late 70's ?) did not use it. The switch turns on the electric choke when the ignition is on and there is oil pressure, (the choke is not powered if you sit with the key on and engine not running), the old ones just power the choke whenever the key was on.
Certainly could be deleted, just then if sitting with the key on, engine off, the choke will come off early after you start it.
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  #7  
Old 09-08-2013, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdill
The switch is there on the newer ones (older , I don't remember what year late 70's ?) did not use it. The switch turns on the electric choke when the ignition is on and there is oil pressure, (the choke is not powered if you sit with the key on and engine not running), the old ones just power the choke whenever the key was on.
Certainly could be deleted, just then if sitting with the key on, engine off, the choke will come off early after you start it.

So its a switch that turns on a dash light to indicate low oil pressure, but if i understand you right it also serves to provide power to the choke only when the engine is running (indicated by the prescience of oil pressure) correct?
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:52 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Hmm

All the ones I've seen had 2 sensors one was a switch for the choke & oil light the other was for the pressure gauge. Maybe the later models had a single unit.

I believe the 79 had 2.
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80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
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  #9  
Old 09-08-2013, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serehill
All the ones I've seen had 2 sensors one was a switch for the choke & oil light the other was for the pressure gauge. Maybe the later models had a single unit.

I believe the 79 had 2.

There is no dash light (on 73ish+ only a gauge) the Bell shaped pickup is for the gauge, the smaller switch is for the choke heater. My 77 did not have the switch, (Or tee fitting) my later ones (that I have looked at) do.
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1977 J-10 Honcho 360-T15-D20
1977 Cherokee WT 360-Th400-NP241 true-trac(s)
1979 Cherokee 4 Door 258-T-18-D20
1981 Cherokee Chief WT 360-727-NP208
1972 K20 Suburban 350 SM465 205
And the other stuff that gets driven
----------------------------------------
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  #10  
Old 09-09-2013, 12:12 AM
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79 wagoneer 79 wagoneer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serehill
All the ones I've seen had 2 sensors one was a switch for the choke & oil light the other was for the pressure gauge. Maybe the later models had a single unit.

I believe the 79 had 2.

mine dose have the two sensors two. Iv got a 90* elbow type fitting that goes into the block with a T fitting attached to it, and the bell shaped oil pressure sensor and the oil level sensor/choke heater switch/flux capacitor relay thing attached to the T fitting
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1995 XJ Cherokee: sold
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  #11  
Old 09-09-2013, 03:46 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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I had a broken pressure switch a few years ago. Lucky for me I noticed it on a short trip. I won't be using devices made with plastic parts again.
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  #12  
Old 09-09-2013, 11:37 AM
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Better stay in bed and pull the covers over your head, I can't think of much of any car, appliance, personal hygiene product, or other devices that does not have plastic parts in them.


Quote:
Originally Posted by threepiece188
I won't be using devices made with plastic parts again.
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Home of ADHD project list

1977 J-10 Honcho 360-T15-D20
1977 Cherokee WT 360-Th400-NP241 true-trac(s)
1979 Cherokee 4 Door 258-T-18-D20
1981 Cherokee Chief WT 360-727-NP208
1972 K20 Suburban 350 SM465 205
And the other stuff that gets driven
----------------------------------------
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  #13  
Old 09-10-2013, 05:09 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdill
Better stay in bed and pull the covers over your head, I can't think of much of any car, appliance, personal hygiene product, or other devices that does not have plastic parts in them.
Thanks for the tip, I found it most insightful. I can see part of my problem now.
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  #14  
Old 09-10-2013, 10:11 AM
JeepWrencher JeepWrencher is offline
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Choke heater switch and noise

I wondered about these wires when I redid my engine harness so I did some digging.

I've heard that one of the reasons the switch was added was to prevent you from turning on the ignition for tunes for a few hours while at the park or something and having the heating element in the choke running. This would cause the choke to overheat as it wasn't being cooled by air and fuel through the carb and start a fire.

This could just be alarmist drivvel but I kept the switch for two reasons. First, after seeing the way AMC and the PO had my truck wired I need all the help I can get. Second, there is no reason to have an unessesary drain on my battery if I do have the key on but not the engine running. Like when I am working on it.

I too got a new underhood "whistle" after I did my CS-144 conversion. I needed to replace a bad bracket and alt so I figured why not upgrade. The only thing I have been able to attribute the whistle to is the alt discharging the excess voltage becuase I can't load the system enough. My whistle only happens after longish drives. This is my best guess and my be unique to my combo.
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepWrencher
I too got a new underhood "whistle" after I did my CS-144 conversion. I needed to replace a bad bracket and alt so I figured why not upgrade. The only thing I have been able to attribute the whistle to is the alt discharging the excess voltage becuase I can't load the system enough. My whistle only happens after longish drives. This is my best guess and my be unique to my combo.

This could be a likely cause. Iv done some searching and a whistling alternator due to load seems to be a common occurrence on a lot of vehicles. I need to call my brother who's a mechanic at a local jeep dealership some time this week, so ill see what he thinks when I talk to him
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1995 XJ Cherokee: sold
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  #16  
Old 09-11-2013, 05:20 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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LOL

Alternaotors whistling in not a normal phenomenon. Ever. it may be something that hapens to some because of something scraping or a crazy regulator but it is not mormal. Did your old alternatior do it. No??? That is normal.
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80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
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