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  #21  
Old 08-08-2018, 09:41 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
Posts: 10,840
Quote:
Originally Posted by eldudderino
Well I bought it a little over a month ago. It is a 1984 J20 with a flat bed. ...
Look on RockAuto -they list Dayton springs for these trucks. These are also available from spring shops elsewhere on the net, not necessarily under the Dayton name. I was thinking primarily as a replacement for the rears - these are not lift springs, and would return the truck to stock height if you installed them all around and without the blocks.

If your fronts have some arch, you could try removing one or a few of the shorter leaves. You'll need clips and a new spring center bolt to build the new pack, and you're supposed to replace the u-bolts after each use.

My feeling is you're pretty close to ok for 35s at stock ride height. Tire clearance is quite good for these trucks, and you'll have zero issues at tthe rear with a flat bed. A bit of judicious trimming at the front could also help. I would try some factory height rears with say 2" blocks, and less arch in the front.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #22  
Old 08-11-2018, 06:22 AM
eldudderino eldudderino is offline
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Join Date: Jun 18, 2018
Location: Illinois
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese
Look on RockAuto -they list Dayton springs for these trucks. These are also available from spring shops elsewhere on the net, not necessarily under the Dayton name. I was thinking primarily as a replacement for the rears - these are not lift springs, and would return the truck to stock height if you installed them all around and without the blocks.

If your fronts have some arch, you could try removing one or a few of the shorter leaves. You'll need clips and a new
spring center bolt to build the new pack, and you're
supposed to replace the u-bolts after each use.

My feeling is you're pretty close to ok for 35s at stock ride height. Tire clearance is quite good for these trucks, and you'll have zero issues at tthe rear with a flat bed. A bit of judicious trimming at the front could also help. I would try some factory height rears with say 2" blocks, and less arch in the front.

So the rear springs I have now are 4 leafs. So would the Dayton 5 leafs have more load capacity anyway?
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  #23  
Old 08-13-2018, 10:10 AM
tgreese's Avatar
tgreese tgreese is offline
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
Posts: 10,840
Quote:
Originally Posted by eldudderino
So the rear springs I have now are 4 leafs. So would the Dayton 5 leafs have more load capacity anyway?
Maybe. Depends on what the GVWR is of your truck. I recall it's given in the VIN if you decode it.

There is a part book at www.oljeep.com that covers your year. It may give you information about the number of leaves and the how that fits with the GVWR.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #24  
Old 08-13-2018, 10:22 AM
joe joe is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2000
Location: PNWet, USA
Posts: 22,066
No telling how after market springs are built? For OEM as mentioned depends on the GVWR. The heavier GVWR set ups run fewer but heavier leafs. The more but smaller leafs on the lower GVWR rigs is for ride comfort.
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