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Old 09-19-2011, 11:37 AM
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puckettj puckettj is offline
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Join Date: May 17, 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
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Replaced Rear Window switch in tailgate...

So with some help from Kevinator, I finally pulled the tailgate apart yesterday to begin my quest to pull the window switch out and replace it. Mine continued to short out when I used it or hit a big pothole (Nice!).

We removed the outside wipe. Disconnected the glass from the motor. Pulled the glass out (Have to disconnect the defogger leads to do this). Took out the 5 bolts holding the window motor/gears in. Used the 25 Torx bit security socket to remove the key housing on the outside of the tailgate.

Then removed the sheet metal 2 screws holding the key switch from the inside. Slid it out. Used a regular window switch for the replacement...wires were a perfect fit. Put it all back together...works like a charm...no smoke, or relay's tripping, etc.

Learned alot in the process if anyone needs any advice. It was much easier than I thought it would be. I'm replacing the 2 side rails tonight before I button it all back up...mine were rotten. Also have to solder one of the defogger leads back on.
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:02 PM
AM Woody AM Woody is offline
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Thanks for posting. I started on this a while back and need to finish (truck went down for other things.) Already have the new side rails and everything.

You got me looking in the attic and basement for a switch. Have two driver's door switches, that's it. Even had the rear door panels I took off my parts rig hanging around until I sent them off to someone here recently... so the switches must still be hanging there in the parts truck... three hours away...
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:14 PM
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jbentley jbentley is offline
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After replacing the switch with a regular window switch, did you check to make sure that the window raises/lowers using both the front switch and the key switch in the rear?

Unless the later 80's models are done differently, my rear switch kind of acts like a 3-way switch, with the feeds from the front switch going through the rear before being passed to the motor.

There was a posting from ipendia about how to replace the crummy plastic switch with an improved modern MOM (Momentary on-off-on) switch, but if you used the original part number used in the post in an early 80's rig, the front switch no longer worked to move the rear window. This was because the switch used in the Ipendia write-up was on-off-on, and for the earlier 80's rigs, there was no off, because with the rear switch was in the resting (middle) position, it was passing the feeds from the front switch to the motor. I have a write up in the forum that explains it in more detail, just search for "troubleshooting tailgate window" if you're interested.

In the end, I was able to get a part number from Carlington that was built up with the connections I needed to keep both front and rear working using the same instructions from ipendia. I think the author of Ipendia updated his page with the new part number from Carlington.
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Last edited by jbentley : 09-19-2011 at 02:18 PM.
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  #4  
Old 09-19-2011, 02:47 PM
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Billygoat Billygoat is offline
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Join Date: Mar 16, 2004
Location: Southwest Wisconsin
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In my 83 I used 2 DPST relays and a monentary on-off-on switch to replace the tailgate switch. The toggle is in the chrome part above the license plate.
Dash switch still works (key on) and the toggle is always operational, not as theft proof as a key switch, but better than it not working.
I should be able create a diagram of how I wired it up if anyone is interested.
I used all existing wires in the gate.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:32 AM
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puckettj puckettj is offline
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Yes, the door window switches are already crossed wired to allow both your key switch and dash switch to operate normally. It was very simple to replace...the only thing you will notice is that the chrome switch is shorter on the door window switch than the original rear window switch...it doesn't make a difference though when using the key to lower and raise the window.

Here's where I got the idea:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=117860&highlight=tailgate+window+ switch

RP

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbentley
After replacing the switch with a regular window switch, did you check to make sure that the window raises/lowers using both the front switch and the key switch in the rear?

Unless the later 80's models are done differently, my rear switch kind of acts like a 3-way switch, with the feeds from the front switch going through the rear before being passed to the motor.

There was a posting from ipendia about how to replace the crummy plastic switch with an improved modern MOM (Momentary on-off-on) switch, but if you used the original part number used in the post in an early 80's rig, the front switch no longer worked to move the rear window. This was because the switch used in the Ipendia write-up was on-off-on, and for the earlier 80's rigs, there was no off, because with the rear switch was in the resting (middle) position, it was passing the feeds from the front switch to the motor. I have a write up in the forum that explains it in more detail, just search for "troubleshooting tailgate window" if you're interested.



In the end, I was able to get a part number from Carlington that was built up with the connections I needed to keep both front and rear working using the same instructions from ipendia. I think the author of Ipendia updated his page with the new part number from Carlington.
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  #6  
Old 09-20-2011, 10:57 AM
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mdill mdill is offline
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From the other write up on using a non-power window switch on 79+ wagons

The issue is the rear window switch is NOT a normal DPDT switch.
What he has written up will allow the window to work from the rear, but it will not allow the front dash switch to work the rear window. It lacks connectivity from the two wires going forward though the switch in the centered "off" position.
(The switch lacks the center terminal to outer opposite corner contacts in the "off" position that a "normal" power window switch has)
Couple options that do work, get a back seat power window switch from one of the guy's parting stuff out. (they don't get much use so they should be pretty fresh) or you can fit a Dorman ford power window switch in the hole, direct drop in if you have the right clips, (I had to shave the plastic just a bit) but the switch does not look like what I would call "quality" ( http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-20805-901-310.aspx ) any auto parts place can get them pretty cheap (both in price and in build)
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