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  #1  
Old 02-28-2013, 09:24 AM
MrBoZiffer MrBoZiffer is offline
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heat for seatbelt torx

After I stripped the head with a T50, I finally started reading about these torx bolts, and now I know how much of a PITA they are. I see a lot of ya'll are suggesting heat from underneath. What's a good/safe heat source to use?

I've got a large soldering iron that might work.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:27 AM
leadsled01 leadsled01 is offline
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Torch's..Soldering iron won't do squat.
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  #3  
Old 02-28-2013, 11:03 AM
MrBoZiffer MrBoZiffer is offline
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Well, ratfarts... that's what I'd thought ya'll tell me. Thanks.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:52 PM
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The torx is a weird size it you get the right one it works better

I can't recall which size it is but one of the standards seem to work but it is too small. The correct torx will eliminate your need for heat.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:54 PM
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Don't remember if they are the same but I've used a 6 inch pipe wrench after soaking with penetrating oil when I had 1 strip out. Worth a try?
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  #6  
Old 02-28-2013, 02:05 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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I vote for fire(flame) forget elect soldering iron or gun. You need 'hot' to breakdown the chemical bond of the thread locker goop on belt anchors. Same scenario with exterior mirror head mounting bolts. Without fire I just break the brittle torx bits.
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:34 PM
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I just weld a 1/2 inch nut to the top of the torx head and they back right out. The heat from welding breaks them loose, but a good shot of PB after you weld the nut on wouldn't hurt.

Use some never seize on the new ones if you ever think you might need to take them out again.
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  #8  
Old 02-28-2013, 04:46 PM
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correct size is a T-47. Look up an impact driver (not impact wrench). It is a tool that you hit with a hammer and loosens the bolts.
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:48 PM
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Like this.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/shc-947641
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  #10  
Old 02-28-2013, 04:49 PM
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Actually a T-50. Never ran across a 47, 45 and 50, yes, 27 yes.
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  #11  
Old 02-28-2013, 07:24 PM
MrBoZiffer MrBoZiffer is offline
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Yeah, I tried a Kobalt T50 and it didn't work, but the bit has held together. It's technically the right size, but I think the teeth are too thin so it doesn't grip tight enough. Maybe the 47 has thicker teeth?

Anyway, I stripped some of the torx head, so now I have little room for error before I have to drill it out. I'll definitely try a torch, impact driver, and PB first.

Thanks.
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:38 PM
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ProTouring442 ProTouring442 is offline
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It's a T-47, trust me... I used to sell mechanic's tools for a living.

Here's a Snap On T-41 on EvilBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-DRIVE-T4...8f8523&vxp=mtr
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:47 PM
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I get mine at ACE. The T-47 has thicker 'teeth" just for the stupid seat belt bolts.
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  #14  
Old 02-28-2013, 08:01 PM
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ProTouring442 ProTouring442 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csuengr
I get mine at ACE. The T-47 has thicker 'teeth" just for the stupid seat belt bolts.

Indeed, made for the higher torque rating of the seat belt bolts.

Lovland, CO, eh? Bought my was-a-beautiful-car-but-now-might-be-totaled M5 in Loveland.
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:32 PM
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+2 on the impact driver w/ the proper bit.

J20
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  #16  
Old 02-28-2013, 09:28 PM
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If it is loctite'd in you will need heat to release it
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:42 AM
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Drilling these are a PITA as they are hardened bolts. Angle grinder to make to flat spots in the sides and then use a BIG pipe or adjustable wrench to get them off. The heat from grining helps break the bond of corrosion and the factory lock tight. Anyway that you do these, they are NOT fun.
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  #18  
Old 03-01-2013, 09:07 AM
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serehill serehill is offline
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yeah you can't drill them

T 47 is the correct one. I took a grinder to some my son jacked on his mustang doing the same thing. I flattened a hexagonal configuration & used a socket & breaker bar to remove they are very tight regardless of heat.
I've actually been able to use a T47 after one was stripped to get it out unless it was mangled.
I've also flattened 2 side & used a 36 inch pipe wrench. Bunches have used the wrong size including me. The right quality socket & a breaker bar is the facto way to remove. You can put tons of pressure on them. I never had any luck with the Hammer impact tools. An electric impact may work but I have always used a breaker bar & T 47. 1/2" drive No Harbor freight stuff.
I've broken sockets & stripped bolts learning the hard way.
The bolts are hardened so drilling is going to destroy some bits & still get you in worse trouble. It will remove the only hope you have in getting it out when you drill off the head. Don't drill the heads off this is an absolute last resort. This will just make them harder to get out.

Edit
I didn't see FSJ-EARLS post I agree but use a pipe wrench cresent is a waste.
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80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

Last edited by serehill : 03-02-2013 at 03:44 PM.
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  #19  
Old 03-02-2013, 03:38 PM
grandjeeper grandjeeper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serehill
The bolts are hardened so drill is going to destroy some bits & still get you in worse trouble. it will remove the only hope you have in getting it out when you drill off the head. Don't drill the heads off this is an absolute last resort. this will just make them harder to get out.
A carbide bit will make short work of drilling through the bolts (if you need to).

I had had all else fail, and finally drilled it out and Heli-Coiled it back to 7/16-20.
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  #20  
Old 03-02-2013, 07:35 PM
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I was lucky. The ones in my 77' Cherokee came right out using just a 3/8" ratchet.
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