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Old 06-04-2019, 03:45 PM
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Heep-J4000 Heep-J4000 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 09, 2014
Location: Schoorl ,the Nederlands
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Looking for alternatives for 12 inch rear brakes on 60-2 axle

Hello Jeep tinkerers ,

I'm looking for ideas and info to replace the worn-out 12 inch rear brakes and drums on my 73' J-4000

I was thinking about putting 11 inch brakes from a Cherokee or wagoneer on.
But those parts are not just bolt on parts.
Have no problems with metal working and doing the work myself
But there are probably some of you that have done something with a Dana 60-2 axle and brakes before.

I want to keep it with drum brakes in the rear and don't really go for a disk brake conversion on the front an use the drum brake parts on the rear.
The brakes on the front working perfect , so don't want to mess with them if not really needed.

Want to know your ideas or tips and tricks.

Thanks
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Last edited by Heep-J4000 : 06-04-2019 at 04:28 PM.
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Old 06-05-2019, 10:55 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
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Hi - I understand this is exactly what you don't want to do. However, there is some logic to moving your good drum brakes to the rear axle. Due to weight transfer while stopping, the rear axle provides much less of the stopping force than the front does. This means that the brakes on the rear axle should last a long time, compared to the fronts. So if you want to conserve what parts ou have, it would make sense to use them on the rear axle. Also, all the Jeep closed knuckle front axles are the same regarding the knuckle parts and disk brake conversion. there are dozens of discussions and step-by-step descriptions of converting the Jeep front axle to disk brakes. You can buy a kit, or gather the parts yourself from the parts store or junkyard.

Developing a workable drum brake conversion for these trucks would be an interesting project, and would be of great interest to the members here. I'd think first you'd need to find a drum that fits (or can be made to fit) over the 60-2 hub and is of suitable size for the weight of the vehicle. Ford light trucks through the 90s (?) have the same 5 on 5.5" lug pattern as Jeeps, and 4x4 trucks may have the same size center hole. That would be a good place to start. Then the drum backing plates would need to be positioned on the axle end so that the alignment of the new drum in-and-out is correct. Does not seem terribly difficult, but I think you are at a distinct disadvantage to the USA owners, who have local junkyards they can prowl through to look for adaptable parts.

Many CJs have been converted to the 11"x2" Bendix brakes using backing plates from a F100 Ford pickup. These parts do not bolt on, but it was possible to make a spacer and redrill the backing plates to make these brakes fit. Something similar may be possible for the 60-2. Jeeps have also been converted to big drums using brakes from other vehicles. Seems possible for a J-truck with some ingenuity.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
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Last edited by tgreese : 06-05-2019 at 01:46 PM.
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  #3  
Old 06-05-2019, 10:50 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
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International makes a 12x2 drum for the early travelall's. 68ish... The problem is they are 5 on 4.5. I tried to get a contact number for centric to call them and ask what it would take to take that same drum and punch the holes for 5 on 5.5.
They did not have any way to contact them on their website and I gave up after a bit. I would pursue this further if I needed said drums. One could probably be machined. If using an international drum, shop carefully. They make a 12 x 2 1/8 and some other slight variances etc.
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Old 06-06-2019, 05:06 PM
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Herk Herk is offline
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I was in the process of working out just such a swap when my truck was hit. I hope to have it back on the road this summer (or at least license plates). The two options I was looking at both involved 11" backing plates off a late 60's Wagoneer. The best route would be a spacer between the backing plate and the axle tube flange. The 6 hole bolt circle is the same. The only really critical dimension would be a counterbore to locate the bearing and retain the shaft. That would be straightforward lathe work. This assumes there is room on the ground area on the shaft to just move the seal out about 1/2 inch, which I think there is.



The other idea I was kicking around was to just bolt the backing plates on like factory, and use a deeper 11" drum. I think I grabbed one from an 80's Ramcharger which is 5 on 5 1/2". The shoes and hardware would be regular Jeep 11" x 2." The center hole would need to be opened up to the larger Jeep register diameter. The Mopar drum is designed for 2 1/2" wide shoes. The Jeep shoes being narrower will contact a bit less than the full drum width, which is no big deal.
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  #5  
Old 06-07-2019, 08:06 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk
... a counterbore to locate the bearing and retain the shaft. ...
?? Aren't these axles semi-full-floating, like the flanged 44s?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk
... The Mopar drum is designed for 2 1/2" wide shoes. The Jeep shoes being narrower will contact a bit less than the full drum width, which is no big deal.
That sounds promising. You might grind down that outer edge of the drum, so that the 2" shoes don't wear a groove into the drum. Would not be difficult on the brake lathe.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2019, 09:47 AM
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Herk Herk is offline
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Dana axles generally aren't c-clip, so the bearings and shafts are held in by a retainer plate. This plate is loaded onto the shaft between the bearing and flange with the seal. The original backing plate center bore is the same as the bearing OD.


The shoe will only wear a 2" wide area. I suppose it would lead to a groove in time. @" shoes make a 2" groove in 2" drums too, it just goes most of the way across. So long as when the drums are turned, the new wear surface is flat and wider then the shoes, all will be fine.
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1971 J-4700/Buick 350 Stage 1/TH400/D20/D44/D60/Koenig PTO Winch
2005 LJ Rubicon Pretty close to stock
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  #7  
Old 06-10-2019, 03:39 AM
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Heep-J4000 Heep-J4000 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 09, 2014
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Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions so far.

I was thinking about conversing it to 11 inch drum brakes
But now I probably go for some 12 inch international drums.
Most of the specs are okay , only have to make the center a bit wider and drill new holes 5 on 5-1/2

Next step is to purchase them and have them send to me

Thanks and still like to hear more ideas
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