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Old 07-24-2022, 11:43 AM
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Cliff Cliff is offline
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Join Date: Mar 30, 2002
Location: Upper East Tennessee
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Digital and Analog Voltage Regulators

I just discovered Delco (and a few Chinese names) make solid state voltage regulators. Mine is an older Standard and likely mechanical. Has anyone experienced any issues with this "upgrade?"

I read a few racing sites and apparently the solid state units are better for high power ignition boxes like MSD6 and CD-1. Limits voltage spikes.
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Old 07-24-2022, 12:23 PM
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An MSD6 series box has internal compensation for input voltage, they'll run on ~9volts and handle over 14v all on there own.
Highly doubt any special voltage regulator is needed to run them.
I would assume similar aftermarket boxes do as well, that's why racers like them. They don't even need to run an alternator.

The MSD6 I had worked flawlessly for ~10 hours running 15+ volts when my alternator took a dump in the wee hours on a roadtrip.
Had to replace the battery and the alternator when we arrived @destination, but that MSD worked for many many years just fine afterwards.
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Old 07-24-2022, 09:00 PM
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letank letank is offline
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Electronic voltage regulator have been on motorcycles for a long time! As old as my oldest 1980 running daily commute bike and my first 1972, and it runs fine. Usually the regulator fries when the ground start to be oxidized!
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74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
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Old 07-25-2022, 09:53 AM
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The Motorcraft alternator (ca '76-77) does indeed use a mechanical regulator. The earlier Motorola alternators used a potted solid-state regulator. The '78 and later Delco SI alternators have a solid-state regulator that is a module in the alternator.

The Motorolas are considered unreliable. Jeep went to the Delco SI alternator for the sixes in 1975 IIRC, and then went 100% Delco in '78. Why they used the interim Motorcraft on the V8s is a mystery.

If it were for me, I would eliminate the Motorcraft stuff and go with the more modern Delco SI unit. Then I'd get the better alternator and a solid-state regulator in one package.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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Old 07-25-2022, 10:14 AM
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That is the best option - I have done two Delco conversions - a 74 Javelin and 81 Spirit (the Sprit had a 1970 401). But my current setup has been remarkable reliable - I just replaced a 4-yr Duralast battery that lasted 6 years. So it's farther down on the priority list for now.
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Old 07-25-2022, 03:48 PM
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With today's aftermarket new electrical parts are a roll of the dice.
Cannot even begin to guess how many new parts were junk right outta box or failed shortly after install.
If what you have works, leave it be haha
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Old 07-25-2022, 04:37 PM
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If you worry about switching noise from the regulator, you could put a capacitor to ground from the power lead, or put a filter choke (an inductor) inline with the power, or both. Perhaps a Corcom type line filter would work for this. Look at what's made for mobile radio. https://www.bing.com/search?form=MOZLBR&pc=MOZI&q=power+filters+for+mob ile+radios
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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