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  #1  
Old 07-04-2022, 10:10 AM
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posulli88 posulli88 is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Dec 18, 2016
Location: Denver, CO
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Front Wheels Hot, Bearings?

I rebuild my entire front axle about 1000 miles ago. I put bigger ebc brakes and calipers on as well as all new bearings, seals, and spindles. On trips longer then 25-30 ish miles I am realizing my front wheels are getting hot. I can hold my hand on it for a second or two but not much longer. The rear wheels are relatively cool to the touch.

Whats the best way to figure out if the bearings have an issue here and are causing the heat?

I have noticed if I lift off the gas the truck slows down more so then it should. So maybe it's more of a brake thing. I'll pull apart and re grease caliper pins.
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Old 07-04-2022, 10:15 AM
MysticRob MysticRob is offline
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Get a good infrared thermometer and point that puppy at stuff. I'd default to looking at the brakes first, as that's typically the heat generator.
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1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan
2008 BMW 535xi Wagon / Deep Sea Blue & Tan

My build thread:
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  #3  
Old 07-04-2022, 10:40 AM
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devildog80 devildog80 is offline
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Agreed....sounds like front brakes not releasing all the way
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'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

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Old 07-04-2022, 11:30 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Brakes get hot, kinda normal. Check actual temp, not unusual for them to be 3-400
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Old 07-04-2022, 11:53 AM
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devildog80 devildog80 is offline
258 I6
 
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Or dragging.

Might have a sticky caliper, or bad brake hose?

Have seen the brake hoses from the frame to wheel breakdown inside, and fluid pushes crud down to the wheel every time brakes applied, but will not release pressure.

If both front brakes are dragging, proportioning valve or master cylinder would be suspect.
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'81 CJ5 Base, 258 I6, MC2100, T176 4 spd, 300 TC, D30 Front NT, 3.31, 2-Piece AMC 20 rear NT, 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

'84 Grand Wagoneer, 401 V8 (.030 over), MC2150 HA Comp, 727 auto, Selec-trac NP229, AMC 20 REAR - D44 FRONT - WT 3.31, 4" high arc spring lift

Rather be driving, than waiting to be modified
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  #6  
Old 07-04-2022, 02:37 PM
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posulli88 posulli88 is offline
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I should have noted that when I rebuilt the axle. I replaced every brake like with new pre bent stainless lines, replaced the hoses, prop valve, and master cylinder. so the system should be clean. I did have issue with a couple master cylinders (leaking, bad seals) and 2 prop valves. Good call on the prop valve. Anyway to check its function?

Just raised both front wheels and they spin freely with the normal amount of very slight resistance.
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  #7  
Old 07-04-2022, 05:04 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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I would put the front axle on stands and see how the wheels feel.

Had a Dasher once. Replaced the master. All was well going to work but coming home it felt like the brakes were dragging. Got worse as I drove. Pulled over when it got really bad. Cause was the bleed port in the master was not uncovered so as the fluid heated up from driving the brakes dragged more, got hotter dragged worse...

I don't remember what the cause was, wrong master maybe but the immediate fix was to bleed the pressure off and take it easy going home. So maybe try that when they get hot. Crack a bleeder or line at the prop valve and see if you get a good squirt indicating built up pressure.
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Last edited by SJTD : 07-04-2022 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 07-04-2022, 05:11 PM
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sierrablue sierrablue is offline
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So if it's not the brakes dragging, it's entirely possible that the bearings are overheating--when you set the bearings, did you back it off the full quarter turn/to the point that the wheel spins very freely? I suppose you mentioned a very slight resistance so it's clearly been backed off. And it only needs like 50 lb-ft of torque to set it--did all of that go as it should've? And you packed the bearings well? With the front wheels off the ground, if you did fresh bearings and grease, you should be able to spin them and listen to it. If there's any feint popping or crunching, the grease has been getting too hot and things need checked on.

Do you run locking hubs? If so, any chance you left one locked and the other unlocked? Or if you have a Quadratrac that could heat up the front end more than normal.

What kind of driving have you been doing? Lots of stop-and-go or hard braking, or nice and easy with minimal stopping?
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'71 Wagoneer (DD)
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.030 over 401, TBI, headers
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custom headliner
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...77#post1734777

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