Beginning: 77 Wagoneer

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  • srob3
    232 I6
    • Dec 30, 2004
    • 53

    Beginning: 77 Wagoneer

    I would like advice on how to begin organized reclamation for a dependable vehicle. My mechanical knowledge is ok, and I can take instruction/criticism. I don't have an innate "feel" for engineering.

    I think all stock, "ran when parked" at least 7 years ago. I would like to go efi and small lift, no other wish list.

    Where do I start? Replace all fluids and see if starts? Or drop oil pain, replace all seals/gaskets/hoses. Then move to axles/brakes...

    Thanks,
    Sid
    78 J10<br />75 Chief
    Knoxville, TN
  • MysticRob
    350 Buick
    • Nov 26, 2019
    • 807

    #2
    Focus on mechanical and safety items first unless you're not in a hurry to drive it. I spent most of my time restoring the interior restored on mine since it was in far worse shape, but now I'm thinking I should've done all the mechanicals and left some of the interior things for later. This is mostly because I may not be living in Boise much longer depending on some work things getting worked out (NOT the case when I started working on it), and there's still a few things I need to do before it's a reliable interstate driver.
    --Rob--
    1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer / Baltic Blue & Tan

    My build thread:
    https://forums.ifsja.org/forum/tire-...er-restoration

    My Howell TBI Install How-To:
    https://forums.ifsja.org/forum/tire-...rb-e-o-d-452-2

    Comment

    • oregonphil
      232 I6
      • Oct 17, 2020
      • 120

      #3
      Kinda reverse the order: brakes, tires and steering, make sure they are all in at least good working condition. All the safety stuff first. It wont do you any good if you can't keep it on the road and stop it. Then all the GO stuff.
      OregonPhil

      77 SJ 401
      72 Commando 304
      07 Toyota Sienna
      76 HD FLH

      Comment

      • srob3
        232 I6
        • Dec 30, 2004
        • 53

        #4
        I will go with that then. Starting at rear axle, plan on replacing outer bearings and seals. BJ's disc conversion. Drain rear diff and clean. How do I know if pinion seal needs replacing? if the front of case looks dry do I leave it alone for now?

        4 in lift springs, shocks from BJ's.

        Please chime in with any advice.

        Thanks,
        Sid



        Last edited by srob3; 04-20-2021, 06:19 AM.
        78 J10<br />75 Chief
        Knoxville, TN

        Comment

        • threepiece
          350 Buick
          • Sep 17, 2005
          • 1431

          #5
          Along with the safety issues I would do a thorough cleaning first. I am referring to areas that are not obvious such as the cowl drains, rocker panels, inside all five doors, front and rear shock towers, boxed portion of the frame, rearmost body mount structure and front (header) panel near the parking lamps. All of these area are notorious for collecting debris and rusting.
          FSJ Hybrid build thread: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=43332
          We are Borg, but we don't know it yet.
          We are being assimilated but we don't know it yet.
          Resistance is not futile yet.
          Are you and your children connected yet?

          Comment

          • bufurd
            327 Rambler
            • Apr 13, 2008
            • 584

            #6
            If the pinion area is dry I’d leave it alone, that said it could start leaking... As for the disc brakes, why? These things are reliable, like any older vehicle it must be given attention. The beauty of these rigs are there simplicity, I hate looking under the hood of any new vehicle. Good advice given in this thread, cleaning, looking, shaking and getting dirty goes along way towards driving without worrying.
            Current fleet
            Abner-73 He started it all in 1979 (plow truck now)
            Bufurd-69 Fixed up to take Abners place as DD
            Delta-70 Built for fun, 455 Olds, T-18, D-20, 4:10 gears
            Humpty-74 J-20 4BT, NV4500, 30+MPG
            07 JK Wife bought new...
            13 Grand Cherokee Trail Hawk, wifes new ride

            Comment

            • rang-a-stang
              Administrator
              • Oct 31, 2016
              • 5465

              #7
              I'm with buford. if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If your rear end is not howling or spewing fluids, just replace the gear oil and call the axle good. Pull the drum and make sure if is dry in there. if not, replace the wheel cylinder. Flush your brake lines. Trans fluid and filter. if you still have full time quadratrac, exchange the fluid. Oil, coolant, and power steering fluid. Repack your front wheel bearings and inspect your front brakes. Then drive it. Fix what needs fixing. Shocks are bad? swap shocks. Runs like crap? rebuild the carb, find the vacuum leaks, cap/rotor/plus/wires. Annoying electrical gremlin, kill it one thing at a time.

              You have to be careful with these things because they can get really expensive to drive and keep on the road if you are not careful.
              Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
              (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
              79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
              (Cherokee Build Thread)
              11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
              09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
              00 Baby Cherokee

              Comment

              • letank
                AMC 4 OH! 1
                • Jun 03, 2002
                • 4126

                #8
                being familiar with your rig shortcoming is a good beginning:
                ammeter bypass


                and cleaning the cowl / fresh air duct... start with the passenger side, it is easier so you do not have to deal with the parking brake release handle.






                also the drains in the rear quarter panel tends to fill up with dust and the water tend to stay and rust the bottom of the rear fenders





                or this one


                Hi All, Got a good deal on getting my panels patched and sprayed but they caulked up (pun intended) the drains...need a picture of how the are suppose to look. Have a 1980 Wag but Im sure any FSJ rear quarter panel of that era had the same drain...which plugged and caused rust!:thumbsup:



                Michel
                74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
                85 Gwag, 229 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

                Comment

                • johnsonic
                  258 I6
                  • Mar 12, 2015
                  • 335

                  #9
                  It's pretty easy to go overboard on these things and make "fixes/upgrades" that cause more trouble than it's worth.

                  I agree with the others on this thread - make it safe, then make it go, then make it pretty. It's probably wrong, but I'm not even sure I'd replace seals unless they're leaking.

                  If you need to replace something because it broke, consider your options on upgrading and do it then.

                  Sweet ride!
                  1984 GW
                  360
                  Comp 260H
                  Harland Sharp Roller Rockers
                  Wiseco -21cc Forged Pistons
                  Performer Intake
                  Holley SA 670
                  MSD 8523
                  Dakota Digital custom cluster
                  Serehill headlamp harness
                  NWMP aux tank

                  1987 GW deceased
                  ...but the parts live on

                  Comment

                  • Brynjminjones
                    258 I6
                    • Jun 11, 2017
                    • 475

                    #10
                    Originally posted by johnsonic
                    It's pretty easy to go overboard on these things and make "fixes/upgrades" that cause more trouble than it's worth.
                    I agree with that! The only real breakdowns I've had in my GW have been caused by "upgraded" aftermarket parts.
                    1991 Grand Wagoneer - Hunter Green. All stock. Rebuilt 360, .030" over with Melling MTA-1 cam.

                    1998 Cherokee (XJ) 4.0
                    1997 Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0
                    1974 Ford F100 390

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