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  #1  
Old 05-01-2003, 11:40 PM
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billyrb billyrb is offline
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For those that have or will lay under their jeeps and attempt to remove & replace the rear main seal, there is one problem most of us encounter:

the exhaust y-pipe is in the way of swinging a hammer to hit a brass punch to remove the upper seal. Well, after about 30 minutes of staring, cursing, and contemplating, I thought of a way to easily do it. Take a socket extension (1/4"), preferably a long one (about 10" or longer), put a deep-well 5/8" socket on the end. Take this setup and put the punch in the 5/8" socket, place directly on the upper rear main seal, and give a gentle tap with the hammer. Might take one or two good whaps, then it'll come out easily on the other side. Then, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to grab the exposed end, and remove it in a circular motion (ie, the rotation of the crank).

Using the socket and extension made easy work of removing the upper seal.

Hope this helps!
btw, when replacing, make sure you use dish-soap as recommended on the outer-portions of each seal. Makes things move much faster.
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2003, 01:27 AM
tito tito is offline
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Thanks for the tip, unfortunately it's job I'll have to do soon.
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  #3  
Old 05-02-2003, 01:55 AM
SoCalCruiser SoCalCruiser is offline
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ditto
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Old 05-02-2003, 04:09 AM
Zacko Zacko is offline
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Yeah, me too. After I fixed the trans leak I realized that there was a little motor oil coming out of the rear main.
As far as beating out the seal goes, you have to be very careful with a punch that may be as hard as the crank. It doesn't take much to gouge the sealing surface. Personally I've always tried to use a soft punch like brass or a wooden dowel to push old seals out. And swinging a hammer around the crank makes me shudder. Even if it is brass.
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Old 05-02-2003, 09:15 AM
BlueduckFSJ BlueduckFSJ is offline
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that is on the "to do" list...thanks ryan!
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Old 05-02-2003, 09:34 AM
timmirvin timmirvin is offline
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Yep, gotta do the same.... X 2.....
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Old 05-02-2003, 09:47 AM
AMC258 AMC258 is offline
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Luckily (or unluckily) for me, I already have a rebuild to do, so I don't have to crawl under my Chero to do that, but a good piece of info, if that comes up at a later date for my GW. Thanx
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Old 05-02-2003, 01:16 PM
GasWag GasWag is offline
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Same here X3 lol
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Old 05-03-2003, 12:17 AM
Blackjack Blackjack is offline
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I'd rather be locked in a dark room with 12 rabid Lesbian, tree-hugging, PETA activists than do another rear main on a FSJ.

UHMMM... OK I had a bad experience. [img]redface.gif[/img]

Good idea though Ryan
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  #10  
Old 05-03-2003, 01:24 AM
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billyrb billyrb is offline
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Several things that made it easier as well:

1. Jack up the jeep and place the jack-stands on the frame just underneath the front doors. Do this so that the front tires are still touching the ground (or at least let the front axle dangle without supports). This allows the front axle to be low enough that you can remove the front pan.

2. Remove the starter, so you can access the last few bolts.

3. Take the oil-sump and rotate it as needed to get the pan to come out. Took me about 15 minutes of twisting the sump & pan to get it out from under the jeep. I am NOT looking forward to putting it back together today.

It's really not as bad as everyone says, if you have about 2 days to slowly work on it. Plan it for a weekend where you don't have to drive your rig.
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