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  #141  
Old 04-17-2020, 12:00 PM
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Only a few mm between transfercase and exhaust pipe.
Whats about the heat??
Not optimal for the case or not??
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  #142  
Old 04-17-2020, 12:02 PM
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Governor... seal...
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  #143  
Old 04-17-2020, 12:08 PM
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oil pump leakage.
oil drops a the connecting rod...

looks like a leakage at the front and rear side.
Have to check 2L-14 pump leak points....
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  #144  
Old 04-17-2020, 12:51 PM
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There is some weird spacer action going on with the PS pump bracket there.
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  #145  
Old 04-17-2020, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
some news:

1) have installed a new crown temp sender.
with engine warm he has 28 ohms (looks for me ok. )

gauge is still at total cold.
with grounding the wire it goes to hot.

2) have E-Drive bulb!!
I used the bulb socket from the fasten belt bulb and did the wiring ...
turning the emergeny drive swith clockwise i hear a air noise and the bulb goes on! Yeehaa!!

3) the reduction shifts easy, with running enginge an Trans on N
And it works.

4 )after a few minutes driving at the yard a few turns i raised up the car.
it seems the transfer case is not so leaky as suspectet.
- the shift lever of the reduction: I have a new seal kit in front of me.

It is only one o-ring included, and i think it is for the control diaphragm

Why is the o-ring for the shift lever not included?
what is the correct size?
can i change them from outerside without remove the Reduction unit?

5) a further leakage is from the vacuum shifter cap.

6) a furhter leakage is the governor cover. can i remove it without drain the ATF? Will make a new gasket (gasket paper.)
1) Check the voltage at the electrical connector. Is it still 5V there? If so get a new sender, they sent you a bad one. It happens. Also, wiggle the wire, maybe there is a bad connection there.
If you do not have 5V, you need to find where it went. 5V comes off your cluster, through the fire wall, to that wire and it may be open somewhere.
2) VICTORY!!!!
3) To be clear, you can be in normal drive, Nuetral, AND Low range? If so, SWEET VICTORY YET AGAIN!!!
4) SWEET!!!! What an awesome set of good news! I love all this good news!!! I do not think you can replace that seal without removing the Low Range Unit but am not sure.
Removing JUST the low Range unit is easy: 1) disconnect the shift lever, 2) remove the 5 bolts that hold the unit on the case 3) be ready for several quarts of fluid to pour out 4) remove the LRU. The overhaul procedures for the LRU are in the service manual. Putting it back on is the reverse of taking it off.
5) That seal is a pain in the butt to replace. I would live with the leak for now. You have to remove the vacuum motor to replace the seal and you have to lower the case to get the vacuum motor out (or cut a hole in the floor).
6) I did this recently, too. My trans lost about a quart of fluid when I removed my governor cap. It's an easy leak to fix but the fluid leaks down the trans and the cross member and makes a giant mess so have plenty of paper towels/kitty litter handy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Only a few mm between transfercase and exhaust pipe.
Whats about the heat??
Not optimal for the case or not??
Yep, that's normal. I don't think it has any impact on the case. It's a non-issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Governor... seal...
Yep, that's the dude. When I sealed mine I used this stuff instead of a gasket. It is holding so far (about 25 hours of drive time).
amazon, therightstuff gasket maker
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
oil pump leakage.
oil drops a the connecting rod...

looks like a leakage at the front and rear side.
Have to check 2L-14 pump leak points....
This is actually, kind of good news for you. That is your power steering pump and is also probably the reason it looks like your steering gear was leaking. On mine, when my power steering pump leaked (just like that), it leaked down on to my steering gear, rode down the side of the steering gear housing, and dripped off the bottom of the pitman arm. I thought I had a leaking steering gear but after I replaced my power steering pump and cleaned up the mess, no more power steering leaks! yay!
Those pumps are pretty cheap to rebuild. I have never done it but it seems like a piece of cake. It is a Saginaw power steering pump that was used in a bazillion GM cars and trucks so if you search "Saginaw Power Steering Pump rebuild" there are TONS of videos and write ups on it. I would use this seal kit if'n it were me.
Amazon Saginaw Power Steering Pump Rebuild Kit AC Delco
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  #146  
Old 04-17-2020, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulsizjeep
There is some weird spacer action going on with the PS pump bracket there.
It no wonder for this ragged assembly
But the gap between die brackets is Not ok too?
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  #147  
Old 04-19-2020, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
1) Check the voltage at the electrical connector. Is it still 5V there? If so get a new sender, they sent you a bad one. It happens. Also, wiggle the wire, maybe there is a bad connection there.
If you do not have 5V, you need to find where it went. 5V comes off your cluster, through the fire wall, to that wire and it may be open somewhere.
2) VICTORY!!!!
3) To be clear, you can be in normal drive, Nuetral, AND Low range? If so, SWEET VICTORY YET AGAIN!!!
4) SWEET!!!! What an awesome set of good news! I love all this good news!!! I do not think you can replace that seal without removing the Low Range Unit but am not sure.
Removing JUST the low Range unit is easy: 1) disconnect the shift lever, 2) remove the 5 bolts that hold the unit on the case 3) be ready for several quarts of fluid to pour out 4) remove the LRU. The overhaul procedures for the LRU are in the service manual. Putting it back on is the reverse of taking it off.
5) That seal is a pain in the butt to replace. I would live with the leak for now. You have to remove the vacuum motor to replace the seal and you have to lower the case to get the vacuum motor out (or cut a hole in the floor).
6) I did this recently, too. My trans lost about a quart of fluid when I removed my governor cap. It's an easy leak to fix but the fluid leaks down the trans and the cross member and makes a giant mess so have plenty of paper towels/kitty litter handy.

Yep, that's normal. I don't think it has any impact on the case. It's a non-issue.

Yep, that's the dude. When I sealed mine I used this stuff instead of a gasket. It is holding so far (about 25 hours of drive time).
amazon, therightstuff gasket maker

This is actually, kind of good news for you. That is your power steering pump and is also probably the reason it looks like your steering gear was leaking. On mine, when my power steering pump leaked (just like that), it leaked down on to my steering gear, rode down the side of the steering gear housing, and dripped off the bottom of the pitman arm. I thought I had a leaking steering gear but after I replaced my power steering pump and cleaned up the mess, no more power steering leaks! yay!
Those pumps are pretty cheap to rebuild. I have never done it but it seems like a piece of cake. It is a Saginaw power steering pump that was used in a bazillion GM cars and trucks so if you search "Saginaw Power Steering Pump rebuild" there are TONS of videos and write ups on it. I would use this seal kit if'n it were me.
Amazon Saginaw Power Steering Pump Rebuild Kit AC Delco




1)
I am a little confused,
Have 5,24V at the electrical connector to main ground at the engine( thick wire goes to minus pole from battery)
I have 4,85 V from the connector to the ground with the sender between.
The sender has now a ohmic resistance from 336 Ohm! nearly the same as the old replaced!
I have measered 28 ohms with engine warm a few days ago and found it ok.
The Chart 1L-40 tells me:
cold: 73 ohm. Beginning of band: 36 ohm, end of band 13, hot 9
But the chart is for the CJ, i cant find it for the Cherokee.
are the sender/gauges/ ohmic resistance differnent from CJ and Cherokee/Wagoneer?


Edit: have found it at the 79 TSM: Cherokee/Wagonner has the same sending unit resistence as the CJ
cold: 73 ohm. Beginning of band: 36 ohm, end of band 13, hot 9
appropiate the crownautomotive page the Crown J3177594 sender fits to the FSJ 1972-1985.


3) With trans in Neutral I can easy switch the RU in low range with running engine.

5) it seems it is enough space to remove the cover without lowering the case . but I have read in bigscaryjeep com QT removal there are springs under the cover which can flip out.. dangerous.
6) today I have made a new gasket from cork and used teroson fluid additional

(a black sealing compound was used before additional to the gasket, but only on the cover side)


Have to refill the ATF, but i think a have to much in . have filled 5,7 l after the oil kickdown repair and 4.7 liters (5.0 quarts) are enough after change only
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Last edited by wincher : 04-19-2020 at 11:57 AM.
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  #148  
Old 04-19-2020, 09:01 AM
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For disassembly the RU:


(2) is it a socket with 11/16 outer diameter and 1/2 inner diameter?
Why is a inner diameter necessary?
the round get sticked in the sun gear instead the main shaft and holds the parts and rings in position..

should the meassures be nearly exact and i have to make a tool /Socket at the turning machine or can i use some steel pipe or round steel?





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  #149  
Old 04-19-2020, 09:23 AM
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Pic from bigscaryjeep dot com
Can I dare to remove the access plate with the case in the car without loosing the spring in the hole of the shifting rod?
(Without disassambly the shift rod)


and how does the vent work? is it gladly leaking?
with all the oily dirt over the transfer case, and expecially in the upper areas like the diaphragm i guess the leakae is in the upper area too.
Like the governor gasket and the acess plate.


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  #150  
Old 04-19-2020, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
1)
I am a little confused,
Have 5,24V at the electrical connector to main ground at the engine( thick wire goes to minus pole from battery)
I have 4,85 V from the connector to the ground with the sender between.
The sender has now a ohmic resistance from 336 Ohm! nearly the same as the old replaced!
I have measered 28 ohms with engine warm a few days ago and found it ok.
The Chart 1L-40 tells me:
cold: 73 ohm. Beginning of band: 36 ohm, end of band 13, hot 9
But the chart is for the CJ, i cant find it for the Cherokee.
are the sender/gauges/ ohmic resistance differnent from CJ and Cherokee/Wagoneer?

Edit: have found it at the 79 TSM: Cherokee/Wagonner has the same sending unit resistence as the CJ
cold: 73 ohm. Beginning of band: 36 ohm, end of band 13, hot 9
appropiate the crownautomotive page the Crown J3177594 sender fits to the FSJ 1972-1985.

3) With trans in Neutral I can easy switch the RU in low range with running engine.

5) it seems it is enough space to remove the cover without lowering the case . but I have read in bigscaryjeep com QT removal there are springs under the cover which can flip out.. dangerous.
6) today I have made a new gasket from cork and used teroson fluid additional

(a black sealing compound was used before additional to the gasket, but only on the cover side)

Have to refill the ATF, but i think a have to much in . have filled 5,7 l after the oil kickdown repair and 4.7 liters (5.0 quarts) are enough after change only
I don't think they are different. I just think you got a bad sender.

5) Exactly! You can get the cover off but between getting the springs in and out, and the E-Clips (coming off and going on), it is almost impossible to do that with that part of the case installed.

I didn't pay attention to volumes as much as you are. Once you have the drive train all buttoned up, start it, then check the fluid level and go from there. Remember, there is a ton of fluid in there and when it comes up to operating temp, it expands. So I usually fill it to the "add" line when it's cold. Then when you can finally take it out on the road and get it up to operating temp, you can fine tune the proper amount of fluid.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
For disassembly the RU:
(2) is it a socket with 11/16 outer diameter and 1/2 inner diameter?
Why is a inner diameter necessary?
the round get sticked in the sun gear instead the main shaft and holds the parts and rings in position.. should the meassures be nearly exact and i have to make a tool /Socket at the turning machine or can i use some steel pipe or round steel?
I've never done this. Not sure. Anyone?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Pic from bigscaryjeep dot com
Can I dare to remove the access plate with the case in the car without loosing the spring in the hole of the shifting rod?
(Without disassambly the shift rod)

and how does the vent work? is it gladly leaking?
with all the oily dirt over the transfer case, and expecially in the upper areas like the diaphragm i guess the leakae is in the upper area too.
Like the governor gasket and the acess plate.
Yeah, that spring does not go flying. You can easily pull the cover and get the spring out, but getting your hand up there and pulling the E-Clips off the shaft is basically impossible. There is also a ball detent you have to get out and that would be very very difficult in the rig. Plus if you drop one of those E-Clips or the ball detent inside the case, you are going to have to pull the case apart anyway, to get it out and install it. There might be a way to do it in the rig and I am sure someone has done it, but it's sure A LOT easier to lower the case. Maybe if you unbolt the exhaust and lower the crossmember (and therefore the drivetrain) maybe you could? Again, not really worth the effort for just that leak unless it is really bad.
You know, maybe your case is overfilled with fluid and that is why it is leaking there...? pull the fill plug and see if anything comes out. The fluid should just barely dribble out of the fill plug.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
and how does the vent work? is it gladly leaking?
with all the oily dirt over the transfer case, and expecially in the upper areas like the diaphragm i guess the leakae is in the upper area too.
Like the governor gasket and the acess plate.
I think it is just a nipple with a cap on it. This also makes it seem like your case is/was over filled...
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  #151  
Old 04-22-2020, 01:02 PM
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Ammeter

Have a question to this ammeter removal guide
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
Here the initial situation.










and here the revision:












- Why the 14 GA fusible link from alternator to starter relay? Why is here a protection needed?

- why the 2 wires red and black from the 16 gauge link through the firewall connector? red and black are linked to one wire (16 gauge) and go to the fuse box, light swith and ignition. one of the thick existing wires should be enough for the reduced amperes. the wire comes with a small 16 gauge for protecting the circuit, and goes with two wires in. Why not save the red wire and the splice (ammeter)?
(- when installing a voltmeter instead the ammeter this wiring diagram can not fit with the splice to to the same one 16 gauge wire...)
This is wrong.. the voltmeter goes to ground.. ok.
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Last edited by wincher : 04-23-2020 at 04:19 AM.
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  #152  
Old 04-23-2020, 11:54 AM
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Bad news.


1) gauges:
have with the new oil pressure sender about 20 psi or what the gauge shows.
today a litte warm up with a few rounds in the yard.
the oil pressure falls from the 20 to nearly zero.
with engine out i have still 3,75 V from sending wire to ground

What the f... are my 5,24 V left?


The resitance through the sender is 26,4 Ohms

with zero pressure (engine not running) it have to be 69-70 ohms or not??


Temp
No temp gauge.
3,97V from sending wire to ground 30,4V through the sender.
This could be ok, the coolant was not cold.



Problem with the dash connector?


2) Reduction unit:
have drained the case. from touching the chain with the screwdriver to full in it is 23-24 mm!! nearly 1 inch and not 1/2!!


3) Valve cover seal
the screw neares to the firewall is a bit longer than the others ... and it was sealing compound in the hole! have supposed the screw thread is worn out and somebody have saved the screw with the compound
But i have a chance the thread is good enough. but with this longer screw it is no pressure to the seal and the oil is leaking.



I despair on this...


To make the best of it: all the US an vintage car meetings i am glad to visit this year are canceled (corona).
and i have no costs from the licence. So i have plenty of time to build this jeep for the next year - or sell it.
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  #153  
Old 04-23-2020, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Have a question to this ammeter removal guide
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml
Here the initial situation.
(PIC REMOVED)
and here the revision:
(PIC REMOVED)
- Why the 14 GA fusible link from alternator to starter relay? Why is here a protection needed?

- why the 2 wires red and black from the 16 gauge link through the firewall connector? red and black are linked to one wire (16 gauge) and go to the fuse box, light swith and ignition. one of the thick existing wires should be enough for the reduced amperes. the wire comes with a small 16 gauge for protecting the circuit, and goes with two wires in. Why not save the red wire and the splice (ammeter)?
(- when installing a voltmeter instead the ammeter this wiring diagram can not fit with the splice to to the same one 16 gauge wire...)
This is wrong.. the voltmeter goes to ground.. ok.
You can do it that way. Before I replaced my ammeter with a Voltmeter, I just unhooked the 2 wires at the back of the Ammeter and used a nut/bolt to screw them together, then put heat shrink around it, then some electrical tape, just because. That meant I just had a wired loop that went into my cab. It stayed like that until I pulled my engine and re-wired the front of my truck. I used a new wire from another switched source for my volt meter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Bad news.
1) gauges:
have with the new oil pressure sender about 20 psi or what the gauge shows.
today a litte warm up with a few rounds in the yard.
the oil pressure falls from the 20 to nearly zero.
with engine out i have still 3,75 V from sending wire to ground

What the f... are my 5,24 V left?

The resitance through the sender is 26,4 Ohms

with zero pressure (engine not running) it have to be 69-70 ohms or not??

Temp
No temp gauge.
3,97V from sending wire to ground 30,4V through the sender.
This could be ok, the coolant was not cold.

Problem with the dash connector?

2) Reduction unit:
have drained the case. from touching the chain with the screwdriver to full in it is 23-24 mm!! nearly 1 inch and not 1/2!!

3) Valve cover seal
the screw neares to the firewall is a bit longer than the others ... and it was sealing compound in the hole! have supposed the screw thread is worn out and somebody have saved the screw with the compound
But i have a chance the thread is good enough. but with this longer screw it is no pressure to the seal and the oil is leaking.

I despair on this...

To make the best of it: all the US an vintage car meetings i am glad to visit this year are canceled (corona).
and i have no costs from the licence. So i have plenty of time to build this jeep for the next year - or sell it.
1) You're probably OK with your oil pressure. Know that factory gauges are REALLY inaccurate. REALLLLY inaccurate. It should be significantly higher when it is cold idling compared to when it is operating temperature idling. That hot idle oil pressure is what really matters.
Here is what I would do;
A) listen closely to it when it is idling at normal operating temperature. If you do not hear the lifters tick tick ticking away, chances are your oil pressure is OK. If you do hear them ticking, your oil pressure is too low and it is time to start troubleshooting that.
B) Go buy a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify your oil pressure readings. My mechanical gauge is under my hood because I did not want the line to leak onto my carpet if it leaked (it did) and it is easy enough to pop the hood and check the oil pressure when I have a concern.

Temp didn't move at all when it warmed up? When you ground the connector with the key on, does the needle move?
Yeah, it sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere in that line. It should be the same 5.24V you have at the gauge. I think there is the connector at the dash and also at the fire wall to clean and inspect. Also, make sure the actual connector on the sensor is not all corroded inside.

2) IMHO, I would drive on that slop. The chain is toward the end of it's life but I don't think it is going to fail right away. I would watch for a cheap chain to show up somewhere and just plan to replace the chain when you change your fluid next. Other people on here would probably change it now but I think you can argue for either way (change or no change).

3) That's annoying but should be an easy fix. Pull the whole valve cover, and tap it for the next fatter screw/bolt that you could fit in the hole, being careful not to get metal flakes into the head. This stuff happens. That screw is really hard to get to because it is so close to the firewall and the heater box. I don't think you are going to need to pull the head or anything. Should be pretty straightforward.

You are so close to driving this guy! When you say you have no cost for driving it, do you mean you do not have enough money to pay for the license or you do not need any money to license it?
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  #154  
Old 04-24-2020, 01:53 AM
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[quote=rang-a-stang]You can do it that way. Before I replaced my ammeter with a Voltmeter, I just unhooked the 2 wires at the back of the Ammeter and used a nut/bolt to screw them together, then put heat shrink around it, then some electrical tape, just because. That meant I just had a wired loop that went into my cab. It stayed like that until I pulled my engine and re-wired the front of my truck. I used a new wire from another switched source for my volt meter.


1) You're probably OK with your oil pressure. Know that factory gauges are REALLY inaccurate. REALLLLY inaccurate. It should be significantly higher when it is cold idling compared to when it is operating temperature idling. That hot idle oil pressure is what really matters.
Here is what I would do;
A) listen closely to it when it is idling at normal operating temperature. If you do not hear the lifters tick tick ticking away, chances are your oil pressure is OK. If you do hear them ticking, your oil pressure is too low and it is time to start troubleshooting that.
B) Go buy a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge to verify your oil pressure readings. My mechanical gauge is under my hood because I did not want the line to leak onto my carpet if it leaked (it did) and it is easy enough to pop the hood and check the oil pressure when I have a concern.

Temp didn't move at all when it warmed up? When you ground the connector with the key on, does the needle move?
Yeah, it sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere in that line. It should be the same 5.24V you have at the gauge. I think there is the connector at the dash and also at the fire wall to clean and inspect. Also, make sure the actual connector on the sensor is not all corroded inside.

2) IMHO, I would drive on that slop. The chain is toward the end of it's life but I don't think it is going to fail right away. I would watch for a cheap chain to show up somewhere and just plan to replace the chain when you change your fluid next. Other people on here would probably change it now but I think you can argue for either way (change or no change).

3) That's annoying but should be an easy fix. Pull the whole valve cover, and tap it for the next fatter screw/bolt that you could fit in the hole, being careful not to get metal flakes into the head. This stuff happens. That screw is really hard to get to because it is so close to the firewall and the heater box. I don't think you are going to need to pull the head or anything. Should be pretty straightforward.

You are so close to driving this guy!
Quote:
When you say you have no cost for driving it, do you mean you do not have enough money to pay for the license or you do not need any money to license it?


The taxes and insurance ar not so expensive for a vintage car 30 years or older. but a few hundret Euros anyway.
It is good for me that i cant get a licence a few weeks ago because the licence office has closed because of corona.
I have not costs for taxes and insurance .
Driving is forbitten just for fun.
And Historic cars are still fun.
to get a historic licence for a vintage car we have to licence a younger car for common daily use.

My Grand Cherokee is more expensive, and he is parking the most time in the garage. I should be in croatia since yesterday for a offroad weekend with my WJ, but it is canceled of course
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  #155  
Old 04-24-2020, 09:56 AM
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Did just the RU sealing

have made a new gasket for the power takeoff cover
Why is this not included in the gasket kit?
Did a niw 3x10mm o-ring for the control lever.
Why is this not included in the gasket kit?
Did a new seal ring for the RU unit. from the gasket kit


Filled with TCL-1. What a mess. used a big gun to inject the oil in the case.
Drive some turns. Seems ok. but now i cant shift the RU with running engine.
The sproket turns forward with trans in N and the lever makes drrrrrrrrrr...



tomorrow i will do the second valve cover gasket and and try to repair the one screw near on the firewall. oil is still leaking there.


By the short test drive i have 20 psi oil pressure and later less..
Did the instrument panel out again. have 5 V on the CVR terminal of the temp gauge and 4 V on the temp sending unit.



I am straining at the leash to drive the V8 on the road an not only with idle and 1. gear
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  #156  
Old 04-25-2020, 12:26 PM
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wincher wincher is offline
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dash connector




My dash connector.

Wire 7 oil pressure is abrupted by lossening the connector.
Number 12 a Alternator was not tight enough in the male connector
Melting on 55 Battery.
all connectors smeared with a compound like bitumen
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  #157  
Old 04-25-2020, 12:37 PM
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connector from the cabin side
overheating at 55 and 12A
will pass this 2 wires without the male/female conectors and do the ammeter bypass.






are those connectors separae availlale ?
I dont know this shape in germany
will change them and crimp new ones.


Ok this shape could fit..


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Last edited by wincher : 04-25-2020 at 12:59 PM.
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  #158  
Old 04-25-2020, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
tomorrow i will do the second valve cover gasket and and try to repair the one screw near on the firewall. oil is still leaking there.


the second gasket is changed and the thread was ok so far.
The screw is to long. Tried it with 2 washers and get fixed.


sometimes i need a assortment of screws with inch thread...
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Old 04-25-2020, 07:04 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
The taxes and insurance ar not so expensive for a vintage car 30 years or older. but a few hundret Euros anyway.
It is good for me that i cant get a licence a few weeks ago because the licence office has closed because of corona.
I have not costs for taxes and insurance .
Driving is forbitten just for fun.
And Historic cars are still fun.
to get a historic licence for a vintage car we have to licence a younger car for common daily use.

My Grand Cherokee is more expensive, and he is parking the most time in the garage. I should be in croatia since yesterday for a offroad weekend with my WJ, but it is canceled of course
Ah! I understand now. But it will be awesome to finally cruise it out on the open road and enjoy the ride and sound when you can get it licensed!

I had a similar thing happen, we were setting up a nice Saturday of Off roading with some friends when all our off road areas got closed down. it was going to be the first real off roading I have done in my Jeep in 2 years. But virus had other ideas. Sigh....
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Did just the RU sealing

have made a new gasket for the power takeoff cover
Why is this not included in the gasket kit?
Did a niw 3x10mm o-ring for the control lever.
Why is this not included in the gasket kit?
Did a new seal ring for the RU unit. from the gasket kit

Filled with TCL-1. What a mess. used a big gun to inject the oil in the case.
Drive some turns. Seems ok. but now i cant shift the RU with running engine.
The sproket turns forward with trans in N and the lever makes drrrrrrrrrr...

tomorrow i will do the second valve cover gasket and and try to repair the one screw near on the firewall. oil is still leaking there.

By the short test drive i have 20 psi oil pressure and later less..
Did the instrument panel out again. have 5 V on the CVR terminal of the temp gauge and 4 V on the temp sending unit.

I am straining at the leash to drive the V8 on the road an not only with idle and 1. gear
Not sure why that gasket is not included. I think when I did mine, I just used some gasket maker. How easy was it to do the control O-Ring? Mine leaks a little, too.

Did you put TCL-1 in teh case and the RU? I usually top off the case, then open the RU and it take a couple more quarts. Mine does that, too (drrrrrrrrr)

HAHAHAHA!! I bet you are!!! (ready to drive it on the open road)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
My dash connector.

Wire 7 oil pressure is abrupted by lossening the connector.
Number 12 a Alternator was not tight enough in the male connector
Melting on 55 Battery.
all connectors smeared with a compound like bitumen
They all got that goop. I think it is to seal it from corrosion. I do not know the best way to clean it out. I bought some electrical contact cleaner at a local wholesaler and sprayed mine out when I had it apart but that stuff laughed at it. I put it all back together and everything seems fine so far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
[IMG]
connector from the cabin side
overheating at 55 and 12A
will pass this 2 wires without the male/female conectors and do the ammeter bypass.

are those connectors separae availlale ?
I dont know this shape in germany
will change them and crimp new ones.

Ok this shape could fit..
I've never bough those. I hope you get some and they do, though!
I wonder how many things will start working when you start fixing all those connectors in there!
Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
the second gasket is changed and the thread was ok so far.
The screw is to long. Tried it with 2 washers and get fixed.

sometimes i need a assortment of screws with inch thread...
I NEVER throw away a nut/bolt unless it's stripped or cross threaded. They go into an old metal box I have called my Magic Bolt Box. It is magic because it always seems to have the right size. It's a mix of nuts/bolts/other from 30 years of wrenching though. There are lots of AirCooled VWs stuff in there from my younger days of driving those little guys around.
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Old 04-26-2020, 11:26 AM
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[quote=rang-a-stang]Ah! I understand now. But it will be awesome to finally cruise it out on the open road and enjoy the ride and sound when you can get it licensed!

I had a similar thing happen, we were setting up a nice Saturday of Off roading with some friends when all our off road areas got closed down. it was going to be the first real off roading I have done in my Jeep in 2 years. But virus had other ideas. Sigh....

Not sure why that gasket is not included. I think when I did mine, I just used some gasket maker. How easy was it to do the control O-Ring? Mine leaks a little, too.

Quote:
Did you put TCL-1 in teh case and the RU? I usually top off the case, then open the RU and it take a couple more quarts. Mine does that, too (drrrrrrrrr)


I filles both. got 3 bottles TCL-1 in, in summary 2,4 l.


HAHAHAHA!! I bet you are!!! (ready to drive it on the open road)

They all got that goop. I think it is to seal it from corrosion. I do not know the best way to clean it out. I bought some electrical contact cleaner at a local wholesaler and sprayed mine out when I had it apart but that stuff laughed at it. I put it all back together and everything seems fine so far.

I've never bough those. I hope you get some and they do, though!
I wonder how many things will start working when you start fixing all those connectors in there!

Quote:
I NEVER throw away a nut/bolt unless it's stripped or cross threaded. They go into an old metal box I have called my Magic Bolt Box. It is magic because it always seems to have the right size. It's a mix of nuts/bolts/other from 30 years of wrenching though. There are lots of AirCooled VWs stuff in there from my younger days of driving those little guys around. [


yes we have a magic box too, but we have no inch thread, only metric threads. No new and no old screws for this beauty
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