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  #81  
Old 03-11-2020, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Honestly, for now, I would plug the port above the transmission modulator. Get the engine running/driving really good before you start hooking that stuff (vacuum ball, heater, quadratrac switch) back in. You don't "need" any of those things right now and there are a lot of potential vacuum leaks on that circuit. If you plug that port for now, you eliminate all of those potential leaks.

Oh. Ok. Can we get a picture of the whole top of your engine? I am wondering what intake manifold you have.



I make a picture the next days..


That is correct. it is only a little pin that pokes up. the orange wire should have a round rubber boot on it and it just lightly snaps on.

Correct, that is the vent cap. it looks correct. you should be able to leave it alone. Some cases will have a nipple with a hose on it, but yours is fine. leave it just like that.

Maybe?


Found the CTO in the service manual. I would hook the Distributor port to the top of the CTO and the CAP to the bottom of the CTO.

This is different to all the vacuum diagramms in the TSM. See the earlier pic from me : Top is manifold vacuum, middle is distrubutor. from top to middle is open when the CTO Switch is cold. Bottom port goes to the "S" port from the Carburetor. "S" stands for Spark, the tube is marked as ported vaccum.




There are lots of opinions/facts/stories out there about ported vs. manifold vacuum being better. You are OK either way; your truck will run on both. I personally like sticking with the way the factory designed it to be to make sure everything is working first, then go from there. But that is my preference. If you prefer to run JUST manifold, then plug the distributor port on your carb and run a line from the CAP port to the vacuum can on your distributor. Ignore the CTO all together if you want to always run manifold vacuum on your distributor.



A friend om mine has a 1983 chief with 401 engine and 1406 edelbrock. He has the ported (choke side) port to the distributor without CTO-- either way.






There is no light for on when you turn your key on like newer cars.



Fine! nice to hear. no failure



Counterclockwise? If I turn my key counter clockwise (as looking at the key) it will go one click and stop. That is the accessory position for me where the cigarette lighter and radio come on but that's about it. If I turn it clockwise, one click that is the RUN or ON position, two clicks is the START position (engine turns over).
When I turn my key to RUN (the first click on turning the key clockwise), my seat belt light comes on and a buzzer buzzes but at the accessory position (the first click on turning the key counter clockwise) there are no lights on my dash. The fuel gauge should not come on in the accessory position, it should come on in the first clockwise click (run).



Sorry for bad explanation.. I understand... On RUN I have no seat belt lights and no buzzer ..but Radio and the fuel gauge works.


the brake light should come on if the emergency brake pedal is pressed and the key is in the run position. It will also come on if there is a problem with your proportioning valve and the key is on. Don't worry about the brake light for now.

Unhook that wire from the solenoid! That's bad! Usually the oil pressure sender wire leaves the sender, goes into the harness on the passenger side of the engine bay, across the cowl, through the big connector on the driver side, into the dash.



Is a picture/diagram from the big connetor with the pin assignment available? I dont want to dismount the cluster before I have a wire from the oil sender to the right connector on the cowl.


That connector on mine is white plastic, rectangular and tied to some other wires so it could not go far.

You sure that orange wire is the quadratrac wire? There are a few orange wires under the dash...

It sounds like your wiring is pretty bad... fix one circuit at a time or you will get bogged down. You have most of what you need since it runs and you have fuel gauge. I would not worry about E-Drive, or seat belt buzzers and lights, or anything like that. I would probably go after the temperature gauge next. When that works, go after the oil pressure gauge, and continue from there.




Yes, the wiring is bad. and somebody has did a lot of failures..
Sorry for wrong quote.. see my answer interlined..
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Last edited by wincher : 03-11-2020 at 03:43 PM.
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  #82  
Old 03-11-2020, 03:48 PM
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The right 2 pin connector in the front: yellow is from kickdown switch accerlator pedal. I thought the other is the 56 orange to the transfer case
the big connector is smeared with a black "silicone" or someting like that..

whas about the flying connector? is this the dash connector for oil-, fuel-, tempgauge and ammeter?
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Last edited by wincher : 03-11-2020 at 03:57 PM.
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  #83  
Old 03-11-2020, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
This is different to all the vacuum diagramms in the TSM. See the earlier pic from me : Top is manifold vacuum, middle is distrubutor. from top to middle is open when the CTO Switch is cold. Bottom port goes to the "S" port from the Carburetor. "S" stands for Spark, the tube is marked as ported vaccum.

A friend om mine has a 1983 chief with 401 engine and 1406 edelbrock. He has the ported (choke side) port to the distributor without CTO-- either way.

I understand... On RUN I have no seat belt lights and no buzzer ..but Radio and the fuel gauge works.

Is a picture/diagram from the big connetor with the pin assignment available? I dont want to dismount the cluster before I have a wire from the oil sender to the right connector on the cowl.

Yes, the wiring is bad. and somebody has did a lot of failures..
Sorry for wrong quote.. see my answer interlined..
I see what you are saying. If you are going to run manifold vacuum, you don't need the CTO at all (like your freind's 401). You can go from any manifold source to the vacuum can on your Distributor. All the CTO does is switch between the two nipples. When it's cold, it is from one port to the middle port, then when it warms up, it switches to the other and the middle. If you have a CTO and one nipple is open, then you will have no vacuum signal at all when the engine is either cold or hot.

I wouldn't worry about the seat belt light or buzzer right now. they are both probably the same fault. If your radio and fuel guage works, it starts when you hit start, you have most of what you need.

Ah! We are talking different connectors! The connector you have there is different than what I was talking about. That connector is exactly as you say (QT and Kickdown). You should be able to trace those two wires down under your truck. They should go down the inner fender, against the chassis, then one plugs into the kick down and other goes up over the transfer case to the switch you took in the picture.

If I remember correctly, the other side of that connector can come apart as 2 separate lines and should be stuffed into the harness that is connected to the big fat square connector. I found a picture from my tear down where you can see it. I circled that connector and it's wires in yellow. The red arrow points at the connector you have there.

Here is a good diagram I found a long time ago. The big fat connector is shown in the middle, split in 2 at area 5C. I usually try not to post huge pics but in the case of a wiring diagram, I say the bigger the better.
PICTURE DELETED

Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
The right 2 pin connector in the front: yellow is from kickdown switch accerlator pedal. I thought the other is the 56 orange to the transfer case
the big connector is smeared with a black "silicone" or someting like that..

whas about the flying connector? is this the dash connector for oil-, fuel-, tempgauge and ammeter?
I thought you were talking about the connector that connects to the back of the gauge cluster.
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Last edited by rang-a-stang : 03-12-2020 at 05:42 PM.
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  #84  
Old 03-11-2020, 05:46 PM
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Found a picture of my kickdown, just before I put it back in my truck. My trans was rebuilt at least once before I got my truck so I am not sure if that is original but it's what is in my truck right now.
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  #85  
Old 03-12-2020, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Found a picture of my kickdown, just before I put it back in my truck. My trans was rebuilt at least once before I got my truck so I am not sure if that is original but it's what is in my truck right now.




Yes I have the same connector.
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  #86  
Old 03-12-2020, 03:46 PM
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I am a fool!

The "big fat connector" ist this dash conector in area 5c
so a cant find the cluster connector in the motor comparment
Have to search the wire from oil pressure switch or make a new wire.
Do you have a better pic with the pin

assignment from the motor side?
Please delete the big wiring diagramm... i have saved the pic.

thanks for your patience!
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  #87  
Old 03-12-2020, 05:58 PM
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you're not a fool! You're working on a Jeep! LOL! And working with people that don't speak the same language! I think you are doing GREAT!

Big pic deleted.

I don't have a better diagram of that connector that I know of. If you go into the service manual, in section 1L you have the instrumentation section. On page 1L-21 is the trouble shooting guide for the oil pressure gauge. Take your time reading it and it will take you to exactly where to go. On page 1L-45 it shows the diagram for the oil pressure circuit. Looks like oil pressure goes through pin 10 on that connector.
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  #88  
Old 03-13-2020, 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
you're not a fool! You're working on a Jeep! LOL! And working with people that don't speak the same language! I think you are doing GREAT!

Big pic deleted.

I don't have a better diagram of that connector that I know of. If you go into the service manual, in section 1L you have the instrumentation section. On page 1L-21 is the trouble shooting guide for the oil pressure gauge. Take your time reading it and it will take you to exactly where to go. On page 1L-45 it shows the diagram for the oil pressure circuit. Looks like oil pressure goes through pin 10 on that connector.




Thanks for kind words!
The above mentioned pages have i printed and read before


I spend a lot of time in reading the manuals and so on..
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  #89  
Old 03-13-2020, 03:50 PM
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Problem with the bulkhead connector in the 79 manual.
The pins seems different to my 78 connector.
Number 7 in the corner should be purple 7 for oil pressure.

It is yellow and goes to the heater fan..
and so on..

al the wires are replaced after a few inches... I think here was a cable fire and the wires are pinched off.
shown on the connector and on other electrilca parts on the inner fender


it should be better to search for a cable harness in the engine bay and replace the bad connector too
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  #90  
Old 03-13-2020, 03:55 PM
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  #91  
Old 03-13-2020, 03:57 PM
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  #92  
Old 03-14-2020, 06:56 AM
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Lunchtime!
Here some News.

like i said the old connector was broken. no hold in the case! take a look at the broken isolation from the wire!
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Old 03-14-2020, 07:02 AM
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TH 400 oilfilter shaky

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbqTMiRlY9I



take a look at 3:30

the spacer is missing in mine!! have to make one.
take a look at 4:10
is it right to have such a shaky filter?
Or is it better to make a longer spacer and lock the filtercase tight?



What is the right oil quantity?
the manual aid .22 pt. but 22 pint are 10,5l!!
I have in german internet found 5,67 l..


Dextron 2 or 3?
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Old 03-14-2020, 07:08 AM
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manifold


rang-a-stang, here pictures from the manifold as desired.
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Old 03-14-2020, 07:27 AM
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Connector

Have found this pic from the connector in the1977 TSM
Better radable as in the 1978 manual.
Compare the position of the 2 Screws with my pic below.
This should be the right position of the connector from inside the car












This is the same mirrored, a it look from the engine bay.
Number 7 is in the left upper corner an goes to the heating case, not to the blower.

But Number 7 should be the oil pressure wire with purple color??

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Old 03-17-2020, 02:05 PM
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For Addition: My intake manifold is a AMC 3217486
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Old 03-17-2020, 04:54 PM
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You know what, I have an engine bay wiring harness I pulled out of a 78 Cherokee that is in pretty good shape. I would sell it for pretty cheap if you are interested (say $25 plus shipping?). I can get pictures for you if you want. It might be easier than trying to fix that one.

Have you crawled underneath and verified that you are in fact working on a 360? Those manifolds were usually put on 401s. I almost never see factory 4bbl 360s... You look at your engine block, under the motor mounts and you should see either a 360 or 401 cast into the block.

I am not sure the actual amount of fluid in the trans but i will tell you, ITS A LOT!!! I was shocked at how much i had to pour into mine to get it at the right level. I think I poured in 5 quarts in the pan, 2 in the torque converter, then started it, threw in 3 more, then drove it a few times and added another one. Now, I have a fairly large aftermarket trans cooler that probably has at least a quart in it, but I would assume you need at least 5 if all you are doing is a filter change. I use the cheapest Universal ATF I can get (DEXTRON/MERCON).
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  #98  
Old 03-18-2020, 10:12 AM
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Puhh


I have to search for the 360 or 401
If it is a 401 i could go to a advokat and try to make the sales aggreemen invalid...
I now understand the wiring diagramm and the dash connector.
have printed the 77 diagram on 2 sheet A3 paper..

it is not necessary to mirror the pic of the connector.
Number 7 is the oil pressure sender and not a plus on the starter soleniod
After angarble the wires under 3 m isolation tape it looks better as afraid.
The temp sender was 1 and so on

I am going to pinch off all the wires short before the connector, where the isolation is broken. and put on new flat contact pins... and clean the connector from all the silicone.
The selfmade wires are only a few like 14, 55, 13A, 12A..55, 50... but Klima is dismounted

First I make the gauges work and the car running before i spend time in a new harness. But thanks for your offer and maybe i will return....
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Old 03-18-2020, 10:54 AM
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Hahahahaha! If you have a 401 do not make the sale invalid! That engine makes your truck worth A LOT more!
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  #100  
Old 03-18-2020, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
You know what, I have an engine bay wiring harness I pulled out of a 78 Cherokee that is in pretty good shape. I would sell it for pretty cheap if you are interested (say $25 plus shipping?). I can get pictures for you if you want. It might be easier than trying to fix that one.

Have you crawled underneath and verified that you are in fact working on a 360? Those manifolds were usually put on 401s. I almost never see factory 4bbl 360s... You look at your engine block, under the motor mounts and you should see either a 360 or 401 cast into the block.

I am not sure the actual amount of fluid in the trans but i will tell you, ITS A LOT!!! I was shocked at how much i had to pour into mine to get it at the right level. I think I poured in 5 quarts in the pan, 2 in the torque converter, then started it, threw in 3 more, then drove it a few times and added another one. Now, I have a fairly large aftermarket trans cooler that probably has at least a quart in it, but I would assume you need at least 5 if all you are doing is a filter change. I use the cheapest Universal ATF I can get (DEXTRON/MERCON).




on the engine block it is a 360
one the right head cover tag i can see 812N04
But what is the 8 standing?


8 is standing for 1975



1978 should be a "2"
12 is the month dezember
N ist a 360 2 V ( barrel) carbuetor.
04 is the date of the day
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