TFI!!! HELP!!!!!!!!(Update!!)

[Its all about the Jeep]

I'm doing the TFI. Vehicle is 91 Grand Wagoneer. The distributor base does not fit on my distributor. I tried shaving down the inside, but now it still wants to pop up. I see no place to screw in the screws that came with the base, and clipping the old cap clips into the base is not secure enough. I saw nowhere in the instructions that said to buy a new distributor, and the only mount it talks about fabbing or buying is for the coil. What do I do?

[ March 13, 2004, 12:38 PM: Message edited by: Its all about the Jeep ]

[89grand]

You don't need to buy a new distributor and you don't need to screw anything in. The cap base attaches to the distributor using the clips that used to hold the cap on, then the base has clips too that holds the new cap on.

[ March 12, 2004, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: 89grand ]

[jode]

Yeah man - no need to buy a new dizzy...you did get one of these right?

[River Beast]

Did you ensure the alignment tab on the dizzy base was seated correctly in the TFI adapter?

[Its all about the Jeep]

got one, tried the clips, and I didn't find an alignment tab in the new base. Also, it doesn't just slip on, I had to shave down the inside diameter a little, and then beat it on. Mine doesn't look like pic above tho, mine has 2 ears on it that came with screws.

[Its all about the Jeep]

Let me see if I can do a pic.

[89grand]

I'd buy a new one if you're having that much trouble, mine just went right on.

[Its all about the Jeep]

OK, can't do pics, my cam is fritzing. The 2 ears with the screw holes. One is square, like an alignment tab, but if I align it with that the clips don't clip. I can guess and by golly it in the right spot, so if I do that and it doesn't seem very stable should I worry?

[Merc69]

Sounds like you did not get the right adapter. If it does not look like the one in the pic it will not work properly. Can be frustrating without the right parts.

I used the MDS adapt-a-cap set up and it snapped right on.

[River Beast]

Originally posted by Its all about the Jeep:
got one, tried the clips, and I didn't find an alignment tab in the new base. Also, it doesn't just slip on, I had to shave down the inside diameter a little, and then beat it on. Mine doesn't look like pic above tho, mine has 2 ears on it that came with screws.

you didnt get the right one.... the one pictured is the correct adapter...

[nxcj]

---PARTS LIST WITH NUMBERS AT BOTTOM-----

Another cut -n- paste from my tech archive:

Author: Team Rush

Ignition Upgrade For Jeep 304 & 360 CID V-8 AMC Engines.

The Jeep 304 & 360 CID AMC V-8 from 1978 to 1990 are eligible for this upgrade.
The 304 & 360 CID Engines from '78 to '90 used the same Motorcraft distributor for all variations.
(*If you have a 304 or 360 CID V-8, 1977 or older, I urge you to see below*)

There are three upgrades listed below,
1. BASIC UPGRADE. No modification required to any 'Hard' parts. No cutting of any wiring harness. Does not increase spark energy, just makes sure it gets where it's supposed to go and helps smooth out idle. No options and has to be done all at once.
2. MILD PERFORMANCE UPGRADE. A small amount of modification required.
This upgrade builds on the BASIC UPGRADE for faster response times, better starting, and much higher spark energies.
3. EXTREME PERFORMANCE UPGRADE. A fair amount of modification required.
This is an upgrade that should only be done after the first two have been done.

THE DISTRIBUTOR.
The Motorcraft distributor type is one of the most dependable ever released from the factory.
The distributor it's self is a very good unit, and can easily be tuned and used for even extreme performance upgrades.

WHAT JEEP WAS UP TO.
Jeep used the small 'well' type distributor cap, short rotor, low energy ignition spark plug wires and low output ignition coil are the problem.
The distributor cap design is left over from the 1920's. (WWI technology)
The plug wires haven't changed in any distinct way since the 40's. (WWII technology)
The ignition coil is still based on the oil filled units that appeared in the 1920's. (WWI)

BEFORE WE START.
The below described upgrades use as many stock, off the shelf parts, as possible, so they can be replaced at any parts store. This keeps cost and replacement parts availability problems to a minimum.
I also try not to get away from factory groupings. If I use all parts from the same year, then it makes it easier to remember where things come from.
If you decide to go onto the second and third upgrades, make sure you print a copy of this article and put it into your service manual or vehicle papers.

TIPS & TRICKS:
At the bottom of this article (before the part numbers), there is a Tips & Tricks section.
This small section will answer 99% of questions before they have to be asked on the BBS.

__________________________________________________ ________________
1. BASIC UPGRADE;
USE THIS UPGRADE ONLY IF YOU INTEND TO USE YOUR STOCK COIL AND WIRING HARNESS WITH NO MODIFICATIONS.
--------------------------------
WHAT GETS REPLACED.
Stock Parts To Replace: (stock jeep components)
Distributor Cap, Rotor, Plug Wires.
--------------------------------
What To Use For Replacement :
FROM: From A 1979 Ford F-350 Truck With A 460 CID Engine.
Distributor Cap Base,
Distributor Cap,
Rotor,
Spark Plug Wires,

Make sure you don't forget the basics, and get a good quality distributor cap & rotor with brass terminals or you are just wasting time and money with this upgrade.

THIS BASIC UPGRADE REQUIRES NO MODIFICATION OR FABRICATION OF ANY 'HARD' PARTS. IT IS ALL DIRECT REPLACEMENT OF EXISTING PARTS.
__________________________________________________ ________________
__________________________________________________ ________________

2A. MILD PERFORMANCE UPGRADE.
These up grades are designed to enhance the already formidable Motorcraft ignition system. This upgrade will surpass the GM HEI system by about 1-1/2 times...
(YES! That's correct, the Motorcraft TFI coil stomps the snot out of the GM HEI!)
--------------------------------
WHAT GETS REPLACED.
Stock Parts To Replace: (stock jeep components)
Distributor Cap, Rotor, Plug Wires, Ignition Coil, Distributor Advance Springs.
--------------------------------

What To Use For Replacement :
FROM: From A 1984 Ford F-350 Truck With A 460 CID Engine With ECC.

Distributor Cap Base,
Distributor Cap,
Rotor,
Spark Plug Wires,
Ignition Coil,

Make sure you don't forget the basics, and get a good quality distributor cap & rotor with brass terminals or you are just wasting time and money with this upgrade.

If you ask for the components from an engine WITH ECC (Electronic Combustion Control) you will get the square TFI (Thick Film Integrated) ignition coil, and the plug wire set with the correct coil wire.
You will have to remove (cut) the stock coil connector from the wiring harness in order to connect the TFI coil. You will also have to fabricate a coil bracket, or locate a stock application coil bracket.

The TFI coil will work with ALL of the DuraSpark modules. It's an odd looking thing, but can be mounted in any orientation (even up side down).
The TFI coil uses a full 12 volts, and doesn't use a resistor of any kind.
The coil from a '84 Ford F-350 Truck with a V-8 engine (With-EEC).
The coil runs about $15 to $45 in discount stores.

THIS COIL REQUIRES A DIFFERENT COIL WIRE THAN THE OLD TYPE 'CAN' COIL, SO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT COIL WIRE BEFORE LEAVING THE STORE.
--------------------------------

2B. Distributor Centrifugal Advance Springs;
FROM: Aftermarket Supplier. Mr. Gasket P/N 925D (Around $4.00)
These springs DO NOT have to be installed when the upgrade is done. It is just a way to get a little more 'zip' out of your engine.

This upgrade will bring your Jeep ignition system into the mainstream 80's technology.
__________________________________________________ ________________
__________________________________________________ ________________

3. EXTREME PERFORMANCE UPGRADES:
Once the cap, rotor, plug wires and ignition coil have been upgraded, then you can use some racing technology in the form of.....

The next HUGE jump in ignition performance is the CAPACITIVE Discharge Ignition (CDI).

All factory ignitions, and most aftermarket ignitions supposed to be upgrades for the Jeep are still INDUCTIVE discharge ignitions (IDI), including the extremely expensive and temperamental D.U.I. ignitions and all JACOBS ignitions.

Multiple Spark Discharge (A CDI module upgrade) gives vastly superior ignition energy on all counts. Spark Duration, Spark Voltage, and Spark Amperage are all increased to the point were misfires are unheard of.
The MSD Capacitive discharge module driven ignition will out preform the Inductive ignitions in all areas, from 100 to 1,000%.
MSD is the biggest bang for your bucks.

The MSD 6 series units are the workhorse of the MSD product line, and there are several different versions of the 6 series unit available, depending on your intended application.
The MSD 6A is a full CDI unit that is more than capable of operating above 15,000 RPM with your stock coil.
There are Weather sealed Off-Road units, and Marine units for deep water fording operations.

The MSD 6 series units are compatible with all Motorcraft distributors and ignition coils.

The most common, MSD 6 series, units are 50 State Emissions legal!

Use Wiring Adaptor P/N 8869 to connect the Motorcraft distributor connector to the MSD 6A and 6AL harness. (Around $10.) This wiring pigtail keeps you from having to cut into the distributor wiring or the MSD wiring, and it keeps the distributor pick up coil polarity correct.

There is one for the marine and off road units with the Weather Pack connector, but the part number evades me right now.
If you have a later model Jeep with a 'computer', there are harnesses that will allow you to use MSD and keep your computer functioning. By doing just that, you stay 50 State Emissions legal with the later model Jeeps.

You can browse the MSD website at, http://www.msdignition.com
You can contact MSD by phone at, MSD Tech. 1-915-855-7123

MSD hardware can be purchased at http://www.summitracing.com
Summit Racing Equipment phone number, 1-800-230-3030. __________________________________________________ ________________
__________________________________________________ ________________

HIGH PERFORMANCE UPGRADES EXPLANATIONS:

The Distributor Cap Base lifts up the distributor cap, and puts more physical distance between the high spark energies and the grounded internals of the distributor. This helps stop spark energies going to ground and causing misfires.

The Taller Rotor serves the same purpose, and keeps spark energy from being lost to the distributor shaft like the GM HEI has a real problem with.

The Wider Distributor Cap physically moves the high voltage terminals apart to help stop crossfires inside the cap.
The Wider Distributor Cap also has the much more desirable high energy 'tower' type terminals.

The Spark Plug Wires are designed to manage the much higher voltages of the high energy ignition coils, and have much better boot designs at both the distributor cap and at the spark plugs.

The TFI (Thick Film Integrated) Ignition Coil is a high output epoxy filled unit that can be mounted in any orientation, puts out about 2-1/2 times the usable spark energy of the typical 'Can' type coil, and about 1-1/2 times the usable spark energy of the GM HEI in cap coil, with out affecting the ignition trigger, and the current is delivered in a controllable manner.

Change the centrifugal advance springs to some Mr. Gasket P/N 925D Springs, about $4.
This will allow the total ignition advance to come in faster. (Faster ignition advance is often the performance 'kick' that switching to a GM Style HEI distributor gives)

The CDI (Capacitive Discharge Ignition) throws about 400 volts at the ignition coil, compared to the puny 12 volts of an Inductive ignition.
With a 400 volt supply to the coil the coil saturation time problem is completely overcome, and the MSD module it's self is capable of firing the ignition system reliably at 15,000 RPM and above.
With the combination of the MSD module not becoming unstable as an ignition module, and not having a coil saturation problem, the ignition becomes as trouble free as any complex mechanical device can be.
__________________________________________________ ________________

TIPS, TRICKS & TROUBLESHOOTING.
--------------------------------
Distributor
The stock Motorcraft distributor is just fine for any stock application. It is also just fine for any engine that operates below 5,000 RPM. Expensive billet distributors are not needed for stock or slightly modified, applications

The centrifugal advance springs can be accessed by,
Taking the distributor out of the engine,
Taking the vacuum advance off, (don't loose the little 'C' clip!)
Taking the two screws out of the floor plate,
And lifting the entire shaft and advance assemblies until the weights and springs are visible.
DO NOT hammer on the shaft! Stand it up in parts cleaning solvent until you can pull the shaft out by hand. It may take a day or two of soaking and pulling, so be prepared.
You must grease all friction surfaces before reassembly. (top and bottom bearings, and the thrust washers above the drive gear)

You DO NOT have to use the same type of spring on both sides. It is the total spring pressure that determines the centrifugal advance. (heavy/ heavy, heavy/ medium, medium/ medium, medium/ light, ect...)

An even number of teeth on the distributor gear means no front or back, so the distributor gear can go back on either way. If you have an odd number of teeth on the drive gear, make sure you mark the gear to align with the rotor nose. (I do them all this way, no matter what it comes off of)

GO EASY ON THE DRIVE GEAR! The drive gear is made of cast iron, and is pretty fragile. Don't clamp it in a vise too tight, and don't hammer on the gear when you take the roll pin out. I always use a vice to press the new roll pin in on reassembly.
--------------------------------
DISTRIBUTOR CAP & ROTOR
The distributor cap and rotor should be a quality set, with brass terminals in the cap, and a brass blade in the rotor nose. This is one area that should not be over looked. I the cases of the 'Can' style coil, a distributor cap with aluminum terminals will offset any increases you may gain with a premium coil... So protect your investment, and get the premium cap & rotor.
--------------------------------
PLUG WIRES
What I try to look for in a set of plug wires is good boots & connectors on both ends, low resistance, and good RF noise suppression.
The three basic types of wires on the market right now are;
1. Solid Core. Never Ever use solid core wires on anything with an electronic ignition!
2. Fiber/ Graphite Core. Accel, Taylor, Jacobs and the $20 lifetime warranty brand of discount store wires fall into this category. These wires are perfectly alright if you do not plan to optimize your ignition system, and want to stay with the stock type technology developed in the 1940's.
3. Helically Wound Core, or Spiral Core. This type uses a thin wire wrapped around the resistor core, and makes a good RF choke, while conducting more of the spark energy where it can do the most good, the spark plug.

The highest output wires with the lowest resistance we tested were made by MSD.
--------------------------------
SPARK PLUGS
Extensive testing produced no clear results with spark plugs. The very same engine may run best with one kind of plugs, and an engine built exactly the same in every way may do better with a different kind of plugs.

There are some basic guidelines that stay true no matter what the engine, or application.
1. The more expensive plugs DO NOT preform better than the standard brands.
2. The 'Gapless' or 'Horizontal Gap' spark plugs require the flame front to travel down, then turn 90 degrees to travel correctly across the combustion chamber.
3. Standard Spark Plugs orient the spark in the correct direction, and inject it deep into the combustion chamber.
4. Indexing spark plug ground electrodes on anything but the highest performance output engines is a waste of time and effort. With modern plug gaps, and ignition energies, the ground electrode doesn't present enough of an obstacle to worry about.
5. I have never seen any extra horsepower, torque, longevity or reliability out of the 'V' Split ground electrode spark plugs.
6. If you pry down on the center electrode to gap the plugs, you have a 50/50 chance of just destroying the plug internally.
7. If you ever drop a plug on anything hard, throw the plug away and get another one. It's not worth the $1 each to take a chance on loosing 1/8 of your total horsepower.
8. Always use a 'Seize' type product on the threads before installing spark plugs.
It insures the threads don't seize in the head, and it insures a good electrical ground to the head.
9. Make sure your spark plug wire connectors 'Snap' into place. If they don't 'Snap', figure out how to 'pinch' them closed so they do 'Snap' into place.
A solid connection at the plug head connector is essential to proper function.
10. Remember to use a little Dielectric grease on the spark plug porcelain to 'seal' any voltage leaks.
--------------------------------
DURA SPARK MODULE
There are at least a dozen kinds of DuraSpark modules on the open market.
The modules are identified by the color of plastic grommet that connects the wiring to the module housing.
The most common is the 'BLUE GROMMET'. The 'Blue Grommet' module is the one most Jeepers will want to use.

All Dura Spark modules are full 12 volt units. Anything less than 12 volts and the module becomes unstable. (ask anyone driving a Ford that threw an alternator belt)

All but the Ford SVO Dura Spark units, and a couple of aftermarket units, become unstable at around 3,500 RPM, and can fail completely at around 4,500 RPM.
Most stock or mildly modified vehicles will not operate long enough above 4,000 RPM long enough to uncover the flaw.
(the only reliable ignition above 6,500 RPM I know of is MSD 6,7.8,9, & 10 series, and they are good to over 15,000 RPM)

The black wire that comes out of module and goes to the four wire connector is the ONLY GROUND FOR THE MODULE. It normally grounds through the distributor wiring. I always splice into the black wire, and solder a second lead to it, and ground it to a solid engine or battery ground on the race cars.

The DuraSpark module can be reliably triggered by any of the factory, and most aftermarket, magnetic pickup coils, so it can by used to get you home in a pinch no matter what kind of electronic ignition you have.
--------------------------------
THE IGNITION COIL
There are two basic ignition coils to choose from. Both can be interchanged at will, as there are no differences in primary resistance, and both are full 12 volt coils.
The choices are;
The 'Canister' or 'Can' or 'Volcano' coil, and,
The TFI (Thick Film Integrated) or 'Square' coil.

Like most of the automotive ignition systems, progress since the 1920's has been slow. The TFI coil is a large improvement over the canister coil, but should have been done 45 or 50 years ago when the technology first became available.

'Can' coils have several draw backs, but the biggest two are the current outputs on the high voltage side are lacking, and these are oil filled for the most part, and must be operated with the high voltage tower pointing up, or coil damage can result.

Switching to the TFI (Thick Film Integrated) coil will effectively double the usable spark energy, and can be mounted in any orientation. The TFI coil has the added benefit of having the 'Tower' style high voltage terminal, and the high voltage terminal much farther away from potential grounds than the 'Can' type coil.

When upgrading to a TFI coil on a factory ignition system, some attention has to be paid to the voltage POLARITY.
If you hold a 'Can' coil with the Primary 'horseshoe' connector at the top, above the high voltage tower, the Primary Green wire, Negative, is on the Left, and
the Primary Red wire, Positive, is on the Right.

If you hold a TFI coil with the Primary connector at the top, and the high voltage tower at the 6 o'clock position, the wiring hookup is reversed.
With the TFI coil, the Primary Positive, Red wire, is on the Left, and
the Primary Negative, the Green wire, is on the Right.
If you look into the Primary Connector, the polarity is usually marked there ( /-).

--------------------------------
TFI COIL BRACKET
The TFI coil bracket can be salvaged off of any V-8, V-6 or I-6 engine that used it.
All Ford cars past 1986 had the TFI coil (according to the interchange book), so there should be an abundance of coil brackets in the junk yard and parts houses.
(The one I used was from a 91 Mustang with 302 V-8.)

Fabrication of a bracket is pretty easy with any kind of metal. I have seen a dozen done out of 1" X 1" X 1/8" angle iron about 3" long, and these work as well as anything I have ever seen. They take about 20 minutes to fabricate with a dremel tool or file, hand drill, and hack saw.

A good ground on the bracket and coil frame will help keep the RF noise out of your radios.
--------------------------------
WIRING HARNESS
If you intend on upgrading from breaker points, Prestolite or whatever ignition, you may have to fabricate a wiring harness, or you may want to modify your wiring harness for a MSD or TFI coil, or what ever...

Proper connections are a three step process...
1. Mechanical Connections. Use un insulated metal crimp connectors, solid copper if you can find them, and a good set of crimping pliers. Cheap crimpers can do more damage than good. Never use aluminum connectors on anything.

2. Electrical Connections. Many people think that the mechanical connection will provide the electrical connection. Not true in all cases.
The only way to be sure is to solder all connections with a silver bearing rosin core solder.
I can recommend Radio Shack P/N 64-013. It will stick to almost anything, melts at an acceptably low temperature, and does a great job of tinning the wire.

3. Heat Shrink Tubing. The tubing slipped over the wire before the connection is made, and pulled into place when the connection is finished. The Tubing shrinks down on the wire to seal moisture out of the connection. If the correct tubing is used, and it's installed correctly, the joint should be trouble free for the life of the vehicle.

Look in the parts lists to find the connectors to make your own wiring harness.

-------------------------------
__________________________________________________ ________________

FOR OLDER VEHICLES:
*1977 And Older 304 & 360 CID V-8 Engines With The Delco Breaker Points Style Distributor.
You have three choices,
1. Up Grade to the Motorcraft distributor & DuraSpark ignition module, and add the upgrades described above for the Motorcraft distributor.
2. Use an electronic ignition conversion kit for the Delco distributor.
If you install an electronic trigger in the Delco distributor, you may use the DuraSpark or MSD ignition modules, but you will have to go to the aftermarket for adequate distributor caps & rotors.
3. Use a MSD ignition module that will work with breaker points. You will still have to go the aftermarket for adequate distributor caps & rotors.

*1977 And Older 304 & 360 CID V-8 Engines With The Prestolite Electronic Ignition.
The Prestolite Distributor can easily be recognized by the large vacuum advance canister just below the distributor head.
AND THE DEAD GIVE AWAY IS THE VACUUM ADVANCE IS MADE OF PLASTIC.
The only choice you have is to upgrade to the Motorcraft Distributor and DuraSpark or MSD Module.

4. PART NUMBERS.

4A. FORD PART NUMBERS.
--------------------------------
84 TFI Factory Coil, P/N
84 TFI Factory Coil Connector,
84 TFI Coil Bracket,
--------------------------------
79 Round 'Can' Style Coil,
79 Round 'Can' Coil Connector, P/N D7AB 14489 HA, $.
79 Round 'Can' Coil Bracket,
-------------------------------
Lifetime Warranty Spark Plug Wires...
1979 Ford 460 CID, For 'Can' Coil, P/N
1984 Ford 460 CID, With ECC, For TFI Coil, P/N
--------------------------------
Distributor Cap Base For V-8 Distributors...
All Motorcraft V-8 Distributors, 1976 to 1985, P/N
--------------------------------
Distributor Cap For V-8 Motorcraft Distributors, 1976 to 1996...
Premium, With Brass Terminals, P/N
--------------------------------
Rotor For Motorcraft V-8 Distributors, 1976 to 1996...
Premium, With Brass Terminals, P/N
--------------------------------
MISC. CONNECTORS:
Wiring Harness To DuraSpark Power Connector, P/N
Wiring Harness To DuraSpark Ignition Connector, P/N
Wiring Harness To Motorcraft Distributor Connector, P/N
Wiring Harness To Motorcraft 'Can' Coil Connector, P/N
Wiring Harness To Motorcraft TFI Coil Connector, P/N

4B. MSD PART NUMBERS.
--------------------------------
84 TFI Premium Coil, P/N 8227, $45.
84 TFI Coil Connector, P/N 8874, $14.
84 TFI Coil Bracket, N/A from MSD
-------------------------------
79 Ford Round 'Can' Premium Coil, P/N 8205, $33.
79 Ford Round 'Can' Coil 'Horseshoe' Connector , N/A from MSD.
79 Ford Round 'Can' Coil bracket, P/N 8213, $13.50
--------------------------------
Spark Plug Wires...
1979 Ford 460 CID, For 'Can' Coil, P/N 3122 (8 MM), $50.
1984 Ford 460 CID, For TFI Coil, P/N 3122 (8 MM), $50.
79 or 84 Premium Set Of Spark Plug Wires, P/N 31229 (8.5 MM), $60.
Replacment Coil Wire, Works With Both TFI and Can Coils, P/N 84039, $13.39
--------------------------------
Distributor Cap Base For V-8 Distributors...
All Motorcraft V-8 Distributors, 1976 to 1984, P/N 8409, $9.99
--------------------------------
Distributor Cap For V-8 Motorcraft Distributors, 1976 to 1984...
Premium, With Brass Terminals, P/N 8408, $11.95
--------------------------------
Rotor For Motorcraft V-8 Distributors, 1976 to 1984...
Premium, With Brass Terminals, P/N 8407, $5.39
--------------------------------
Kit For Motorcraft Distributor,
Distributor Cap Base, Distributor Cap, Rotor, P/N 8414, $25.50
--------------------------------
MSD 6 Series Modules,
The MSD 6A, P/N 6200, unit is enough for most stock or lightly modified applications. Around $135.
The MSD 6AL, P/N 6420, unit is the Cadillac of the 6 series with compatibility with all of the usual MSD timing devices, and it has a built in Soft Touch Rev Control. Around $175.
The MSD 6 Off Road, This unit is built like a tank. Epoxy sealed for water resistance and equipped with Weather Pack water proof connectors. Around $215.
The MSD 6M-2, P/N 6460, is completely water sealed, and was intended for offshore power boating. This is the hot ticket for the guys doing water racing or deep water fording. It comes with both sides of Weather Pack connectors for sealed connections also. Around $250.
--------------------------------
MSD/ AMC V-8, Solid Billet Distributor, P/N 5819 Around $226.
--------------------------------
MISC. CONNECTORS:
MSD Wiring Harness To Motorcraft Distributor Connector, P/N 8869, $16.
Wiring Harness To Motorcraft 'Can' Coil Connector, N/A from MSD
Wiring Harness To Motorcraft TFI Coil Connector, P/N 8874, $14.

4C. NAPA PART NUMBERS.
--------------------------------
84 TFI Premium Coil, P/N IC24, $48.
84 TFI Coil Connector, P/N ICC1, $13.
84 TFI Coil Bracket,
--------------------------------
79 Ford Round 'Can' Coil, P/N
79 Ford Round Coil Connector, P/N ICA102, $8.50.
79 Ford Round 'Can' Coil Bracket,
--------------------------------
Lifetime Warrenty Spark Plug Wires...
1979 Ford 460 CID, For 'Can' Coil, P/N
1984 Ford 460 CID, With ECC, For TFI Coil, P/N
--------------------------------
Distributor Cap Base For V-8 Distributors...
All Motorcraft V-8 Distributors, 1976 to 1984, P/N
--------------------------------
Distributor Cap For V-8 Motorcraft Distributors, 1976 to 1984...
Premium, With Brass Terminals, P/N
Store Brand, With Brass Terminals, P/N
Economy, With Aluminum Termanals, (Not Recommended) P/N
--------------------------------
Rotor For Motorcraft V-8 Distributors, 1976 to 1984...
Premium, With Brass Terminals, P/N
Economy, Made From Who Knows What, P/N
--------------------------------
MISC. CONNECTORS:
Wiring Harness To DuraSpark Power Connector, P/N
Wiring Harness To DuraSpark Ignition Connector, P/N
Wiring Harness To Motorcraft Distributor Connector, P/N
Wiring Harness To Motorcraft 'Can' Coil Connector, P/N
Wiring Harness To Motorcraft TFI Coil Connector, P/N

4D. CAR QUEST PART NUMBERS.
--------------------------------
84 TFI Premium Coil, P/N , $.
84 TFI Economy Coil, P/N , $.
84 TFI Coil Connector, P/N
84 TFI Coil Connector,
-------------------------------
79 Ford Style Round 'Can' Premium Coil, P/N
79 Ford Style Round 'Can' Economy Coil, P/N 26194, $13.
79 Ford Round 'Can' Coil Connector, P/N
--------------------------------
Lifetime Warrenty Spark Plug Wires...
1979 Ford 460 CID, For 'Can' Coil, P/N
1984 Ford 460 CID, With ECC, For TFI Coil, P/N
--------------------------------
Distributor Cap Base For V-8 Distributors...
All Motorcraft V-8 Distributors, 1976 to 1985, P/N
--------------------------------
Distributor Cap For V-8 Motorcraft Distributors, 1976 to 1984...
Premium, With Brass Terminals, P/N
Store Brand, With Brass Terminals, P/N
Economy, With Aluminum Termanals, (Not Recommended) P/N
--------------------------------
Rotor For Motorcraft V-8 Distributors, 1976 to 1984...
Premium, With Brass Terminals, P/N
Economy, Made From Who Knows What, P/N
--------------------------------
76 to 85 Ford Dura Spark Module, Premium, P/N
76 to 85 Ford Dura Spark Module, Economy, P/N
--------------------------------
MISC. CONNECTORS:
Wiring Harness To DuraSpark Power Connector, P/N S-629, $12.
Wiring Harness To DuraSpark Ignition Connector, P/N S-698, $11.
Wiring Harness To Motorcraft Distributor Connector, P/N
Wiring Harness To Motorcraft 'Can' Coil Connector, P/N S-583, $5.
Wiring Harness To Motorcraft TFI Coil Connector, P/N FD-478

4E. ADVANCED AUTO PART NUMBERS:
--------------------------------
84 TFI Premium Coil, P/N GC407S, $45.
84 TFI Economy Coil, P/N GC407, $15.
84 TFI Coil Connector, P/N
84 TFI Coil Bracket,
-------------------------------
AC Delco TFI Premium Coil, P

[89grand]

WOW, that's the longest post I've ever seen.

[nxcj]

OK, just realized that the part numbers are a little sketchy. Still a lot of good info though....

Bottom line for the problem in the post....Get the correct adapter ... as already stated [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Jim360]

If you didn't already find the part#....

Part # for Distributor Cap Base you need:

from partsamerica.com : Borg Warner "C194A" $10.99.

or from autozone.com : Wells "F958" $6.49.

[Its all about the Jeep]

Thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate it. Jim, I know I have the wells F958 from auto zone, thats the one that's giving me trouble. I got a borg warner from oriellys, but I'm at work now and not sure on the part #. I think later today I'll try NAPA, cause I'm pretty sure the 2 looked identical, i.e. both had the funky ears with screws and no alignment tab. Once again, thanks all, I'll let ya know if I ever figure it out.