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  #1  
Old 10-08-2019, 07:52 AM
aktrapper aktrapper is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Aug 29, 2008
Location: Carlisle, PA
Posts: 108
Antenna Replacement

I know this is going to sound lame - it should be too easy to do, but how do I replace the stereo antenna?

I replaced the missing radio and hooked everything up but couldn't get reception so I pulled the antenna. The end connector was missing and the wire was in the body and too tight to pull through the body panel, I assume it is crimped in place somewhere. Are there any hold-downs or is it just stuck on something?

What do I need to remove under the dash to replace the cable? Is under the dash even the right way to attack this? I've looked everywhere for a tutorial but can't find one and my TSM is still in my cart at BJ's, I need to get it paid for and on the way.

Anyone have a link to a tutorial or how-to? Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 10-08-2019, 08:57 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
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go to
oljeep.com

click TSM option in menu at left
then pick TSM for your year.

has all the TSM's

dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
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2004 RUBICON jeep
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  #3  
Old 10-08-2019, 08:58 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,328
As far as I can remember, mine came out the top of the fender. Four screws. Should be evident.

Just remember when you install the new one to have a loop of cable in the fender and have the cable running up to the hole in the kick panel. This causes any water collecting on the cable to drip off rather than run down the cable into the interior.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #4  
Old 10-08-2019, 11:35 AM
aktrapper aktrapper is offline
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Join Date: Aug 29, 2008
Location: Carlisle, PA
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Thanks SJTD,
I was able to remove the actual antenna and base just fine but the cable is hung up in the body somewhere between the base and the radio. I'm wondering the best way yo get the old cable out and the new one in.
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A work in progress!
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  #5  
Old 10-08-2019, 11:51 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
Posts: 11,097
There should be a hole in the kick panel up under the dash that the antenna wire comes though. This goes into the inner fender area that forms the fresh air vents at your feet. The area between the fender is inaccessible, so there can't be a clamp or such in there unless someone pinched the wire when replacing the fender or something similar. If so, I'd probably cut it off and push the remaining cable into the fender, and use a stiff wire to find the route between the cowl-top hole and the hole under the dash.



Here's what it should look like under the dash.



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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

Last edited by tgreese : 10-08-2019 at 12:26 PM.
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  #6  
Old 10-08-2019, 12:10 PM
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chubbinius chubbinius is offline
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Join Date: Oct 31, 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 133
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese
There should be a hole in the kick panel up under the dash that the antenna wire comes though. This goes into the inner fender area that forms the fresh air vents at your feet. If you have the wire going through there already, you could use the original wire to pull the new wire through the fender, or pull though a string or smaller wire that can be used to feed through the new antenna wire.
You're a much faster typer than me, Tim. I was just typing along the same line; adding to yours too...check that area for where your antenna wire might be hanging up, aktrapper, sometimes it gets caught on the lip of the hole or on the vent/cover itself if it's run through there.
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Last edited by chubbinius : 10-09-2019 at 08:05 AM.
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  #7  
Old 10-09-2019, 06:43 AM
aktrapper aktrapper is offline
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Join Date: Aug 29, 2008
Location: Carlisle, PA
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Perfect - that's exactly what I needed. Thanks guys!
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  #8  
Old 10-09-2019, 11:31 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
360 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 2,873
When you pull it through, attach a wire or cable or something like a trail of crumbs. Makes is MMMMMUUUuuch easier to install. You pull the old antenna cable out with rope/string/wire attached. Then you attach the new rope/string/wire to the new connector and pull it back down. The first time i tried swapping antennas I had a bear of a time trying to make the corner into the cab...
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  #9  
Old 10-15-2019, 10:28 PM
Pasta_Man Pasta_Man is offline
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Join Date: Apr 08, 2016
Location: El Dorado Hills
Posts: 45
Hi all - is it possible to replace the antenna without removing the A/C box under the dash? Doesn't look like there's much room there unless I remove the A/C box.
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  #10  
Old 10-16-2019, 11:50 AM
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ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Nov 18, 2015
Location: Stephenson County, IL
Posts: 906
Doubt it, pretty sure it has to be moved out of the way. Don't know what year your's is Pasta_Man, but its not hard to do (at least on the later Jeeps). Most of the screws line the front of the dash and there is one by the blower motor. That's it! You may have to loosen the dash to get it down on the floor, but that's one more bolt at the kick panel on that side, then you should be able to manipulate things how you want.
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Rancho 44044, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI
...not too rusty anymore
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1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan 212 I4-CRANK START
1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-5.0 AOD (WD)
1987 Dodge Dakota LE 3.9, A999, 3.90 gear (DD)
1994 GMC 'Burban 5.7, 4L60E, NP241, 3.42 gear (DD)
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  #11  
Old 10-16-2019, 11:54 AM
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ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Nov 18, 2015
Location: Stephenson County, IL
Posts: 906
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese

WOW Look at that wonderful factory caulk job! No wonder why these things are leakers!


Probably why my cowel leaks onto the passenger floor, and of coarse I can't fix it unless I cut the jeep apart
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1990 Grand Wagoneer-"The Crapwagon"
AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 3.31gears, 2" lift
Rancho 44044, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI
...not too rusty anymore
Plenty of patina

The others
1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan 212 I4-CRANK START
1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-5.0 AOD (WD)
1987 Dodge Dakota LE 3.9, A999, 3.90 gear (DD)
1994 GMC 'Burban 5.7, 4L60E, NP241, 3.42 gear (DD)
2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0, AW4, NP231, 3.73 (limbo)
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  #12  
Old 10-16-2019, 12:07 PM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
360 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 2,873
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZackN920
Doubt it, pretty sure it has to be moved out of the way. Don't know what year your's is Pasta_Man, but its not hard to do (at least on the later Jeeps). Most of the screws line the front of the dash and there is one by the blower motor. That's it! You may have to loosen the dash to get it down on the floor, but that's one more bolt at the kick panel on that side, then you should be able to manipulate things how you want.
Yeah, dropping it on my 79 is a piece of cake, too. 1/4" bolts across the front and the bracket in the back. If you have never done it, you assume it's a big pain and you are going to make a mess but it's not.

I'm with ZackN920; you probably could do it without dropping the A/C but you are avoiding a <5 minute/free job (lowering the A/C) to make another 15 min job take MUCH longer, require MANY more cuss words, and a few bandaids.
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2019, 05:45 PM
Pasta_Man Pasta_Man is offline
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Join Date: Apr 08, 2016
Location: El Dorado Hills
Posts: 45
Thanks.
I have an '89.

My mechanic recharged the freon recently, and I was worried that lowering the AC unit (wouldn't I need to disconnected the hoses?) would cause me to have to recharge it.
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  #14  
Old 10-17-2019, 08:19 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 2,873
Correct! No need to open the system, remove hoses, or recharge.
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  #15  
Old 10-17-2019, 03:11 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Location: Medford MA USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZackN920
WOW Look at that wonderful factory caulk job! No wonder why these things are leakers!
...
Arizona truck - not surprisingly - the floors had some rust. Picture was originally taken to show the leak location. You can seal that gap without cutting the cowl open.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #16  
Old 10-18-2019, 01:16 PM
Pasta_Man Pasta_Man is offline
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Join Date: Apr 08, 2016
Location: El Dorado Hills
Posts: 45
Thanks again, guys. I will tackle this one soon.

BTW - the reason I need to get to the antenna cable is as follows: when I prepped the vehicle for the paint job, I removed the antenna base but then the cable disconnected from the antenna rod base... and it's such a tight fit that I can't reconnect the cable to the base. Even if I had some slack in the cable, I wonder how I'd connect it - maybe soldering?

-Kevin
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