Well I finally got around to putting a new steering box on my cherokee. My old (guessing factory) one was leaking like a sieve and my steering was real sloppy from the ammount of play in it. I had a good one that didnt leak and didnt have mutch play in it that I took off a J-10 I parted out. So I finally got around to swaping it out saturday, among other things (new hoses, both pressure and return, and a new pump bracket cause the old one was busted) But anyways I get it all put back together, bled out and filled up and go for a drive and my steering wheel is now off center. The bottom spoke on the wheel is usally at 6 o clock, but now its at about 7. Other than that it drives fine, steering is mutch better, a lot less wondering and a more firm feel to it, plus it doesnt leak! (yet..lol) But I just cant figure out why the wheel is off center now. My cherokee is a 79 and the box came from a 79 J-10. The steering wheel was dead on center with the old box, and the wheel was centered on the J-10 the new box came off of. So I dont get it? Anyone else run into this problem when you swaped in a new steering box? Tomorrow I am gonna break out the pipe wrench and adjust the adjusting sleeve on the drag link to get my wheel back straight. But just wondering if anyone else run into this?
Steering wheel off center after box swap?
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Steering wheel off center after box swap?
79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.Tags: None
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Through a combo of my own stupidity and a CJ-know-it-all-buddy stupidity I did this three times w/ a steering box over a couple months. I won't go into details.
I only have bad news: My steering was always off after first PS box. Nothing got worse, it just was never the same symmetric self. Not bad. I got used it. I mean, you did the same things as me: got under there, straightened before bolting yoke, lined up, lined up again, then lined up again---I'm wondering if we beat the crap/some functionality out of the pittman arm with the cheapass autozone rental pittman puller. I mean, we just didn't use that to get it off and on....what about stabilizer?
My point: wonder if improved steering box but not improved surrounding components contribute? Brent79 J10 360-T18-D20 D44's 31X10.5 Edel 1406 w/R4B, speed
-despite thousands invested, 360 in putrid death dance-
"Buy the Ticket, Take the Ride."
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Straightening the steering wheel out just requires changing the length of the link from the pitman arm to the tie rod. Not hard, takes a couple of tries usually and doesn't mess with the toe-in.chuck
87 GW 96 XJ
87 GW, B.J.s 4" lift, 3.92s, ARBs f&r, 32-11.50-15s BFG ATs, Eldebrock Performer/Holley 4160 4bbl, Thorley headers, Z&M HEI, Flowmaster 70 Series, just about everything mechanical rebuilt.
Other drivers: 06 Sequoia, 82 Avanti, 77 Bronco, 78 C-10 Custom Flatbed, 96 XJ-wife's
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Originally posted by brent:
I'm wondering if we beat the crap/some functionality out of the pittman arm with the cheapass autozone rental pittman puller.
Originally posted by grand_wag_85:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by mechanical man:
takes a couple of tries usually79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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I find that baffling that you didn't drop the arm. When you unbolted PS Box from frame you didnt have to take it DOWN? The hoses arent a factor, but the steering arm is. How'd you get around it? I like to learn later how I could've saved a thousand headaches Brent79 J10 360-T18-D20 D44's 31X10.5 Edel 1406 w/R4B, speed
-despite thousands invested, 360 in putrid death dance-
"Buy the Ticket, Take the Ride."
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Originally posted by brent:
I find that baffling that you didn't drop the arm. When you unbolted PS Box from frame you didnt have to take it DOWN? The hoses arent a factor, but the steering arm is. How'd you get around it? I like to learn later how I could've saved a thousand headaches Brent
But in other news I got it adjusted. Only took me two tries, first try I adjusted too far, adjusted it back and now it is dead on straight.79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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Didn't occur to me to seperate the drag link from the Pitt arm!! I feel like a moron now. I didn't need a new Pitt arm either...glad you got it straight. Need to get Moron #2 (CJ fanatic) back over and straighten steering out. Thanks for the info.-Brent79 J10 360-T18-D20 D44's 31X10.5 Edel 1406 w/R4B, speed
-despite thousands invested, 360 in putrid death dance-
"Buy the Ticket, Take the Ride."
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just adjust the drag link to center it up again85 gw 215k and still going
castrated(de-wooded)360 2" espo springs 31x10.5
89 gw,free,almost legal
She can dance a Cajun rhythm,Jump like a Willys in four wheel drive,
the world is full of kings and queens who blind your eyes and steal your dreams
"Our militarized "law enforcement" has become the standing army our founders feared"
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