Awsome battery terminal connectors

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  • Tripwire
    AMC 4 OH! 1
    • Jul 30, 2000
    • 4656

    Awsome battery terminal connectors



    Bought one set to have a look, well made - however you need 4 different allen wrenches to install - a mix of metric and SAE. the only item of concern is the thread machining for the screws is ever so slightly loose so i used a low strength locker to ensure they stay put

    the negative terminal is slightly smaller as it should be
    Last edited by Tripwire; 02-02-2019, 04:36 PM.
    Abort? Retry? Ignore? >

    86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

    88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:
  • DarkMonohue
    Shakes hands with danger
    • Jul 01, 2012
    • 1145

    #2
    Interesting. I've used this style for many years now:


    I like these because they allow for rapid, tool-less disconnection, and as I don't tend to have a lot of accessories that need to be wired directly to the battery, the lack of secondary connection points isn't really an issue.
    '85 J20 Old Man Truck, bought @ 65K miles - not great, but better than walking.
    Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
    High quality junk here: intro thread and slow build thread

    Did you know? Willys is just Willis spelled differently, but pronounced the same. Neither Willy nor his apostrophe are involved.

    Comment


    • #3
      Trip, I have a set (sourced locally) of very similar terminal blocks I'll be using when i do my complete harness rebuild in the near future. I have all the pieces (I think), just need to time to put it all together. I like that they have two major spots for alternator and starter.


      aa
      1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

      Comment

      • babywag
        out of order
        • Jun 08, 2005
        • 10286

        #4
        Originally posted by DarkMonohue
        Interesting. I've used this style for many years now:


        I like these because they allow for rapid, tool-less disconnection, and as I don't tend to have a lot of accessories that need to be wired directly to the battery, the lack of secondary connection points isn't really an issue.
        I use those too they work very well.
        Don't like open copper connections or unsoldered with humidity here bare copper is an invitation to green invasion.
        Tony
        88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

        Comment

        • JeepsAndGuns
          AMC 4 OH! 1
          • Jul 18, 2003
          • 4586

          #5
          Originally posted by babywag
          Don't like open copper connections or unsoldered with humidity here bare copper is an invitation to green invasion.
          I agree. While those terminals are a neat idea, they are not water/corrosion resistant. Moisture will get it's way into the ends of the wires and start corroding them, then start wicking down the cable under the insulation, which will eventually ruin a cable.

          I prefer the military style terminals.

          That way you can use ring terminals, crimped and soldered, then covered in heat shrink tubing for a water tight seal.
          79 Cherokee Chief 401/T18/D20, MPFI fuel injection, hydroboost, otherwise stock.
          Future mods: Caddy 500/NV4500/NP205, HP D60 front D60 smooth botom rear, 5.13 gears, 35x12.50's on H1 beadlock wheels. Warn M12000 winch.
          93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.

          Comment

          • Ristow
            • Jan 20, 2006
            • 17292

            #6
            Originally posted by Tripwire
            however you need 4 different allen wrenches to install - a mix of metric and SAE. the only item of concern is the thread machining for the screws is ever so slightly loose so i used a low strength locker to ensure they stay put


            go get new stainless set screws at the hardware store for them.
            Originally posted by Hankrod
            Ristows right.................again,


            Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
            ... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.


            Originally posted by Fasts79Chief
            I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!

            It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...

            Comment

            • bkilby
              350 Buick
              • Jan 10, 2016
              • 1083

              #7
              Originally posted by JeepsAndGuns
              I agree. While those terminals are a neat idea, they are not water/corrosion resistant. Moisture will get it's way into the ends of the wires and start corroding them, then start wicking down the cable under the insulation, which will eventually ruin a cable.

              I prefer the military style terminals.

              That way you can use ring terminals, crimped and soldered, then covered in heat shrink tubing for a water tight seal.


              I use (and sell) the Milspec terminals in that link. They're great terminals. Funny part is their pic shows two positive terminals. Lol. I don't have the covers though.
              1974 Cherokee S. It's driving but needs more work. As usual!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by babywag
                ...Don't like open copper connections or unsoldered with humidity here bare copper is an invitation to green invasion.
                Easy enough to tin the wires. I would never leave something that large and important bare wire.


                aa
                1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

                Comment

                • ShagWagon
                  350 Buick
                  • Apr 10, 2016
                  • 871

                  #9
                  I would modify it.

                  Solder in the 10 and probably the 8 gauge too. Almost permanent.

                  Make some slots on top of the Allen screws so a screwdriver would fit so I wouldn’t have to find Allen wrenches.

                  It’s nice to have a couple open connectors for acc.
                  87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I bet if you looked around, you could find philips style set screws that size.


                    aa
                    1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank

                    Comment

                    • DarkMonohue
                      Shakes hands with danger
                      • Jul 01, 2012
                      • 1145

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Cecil14
                      I bet if you looked around, you could find philips style set screws that size.
                      Phillips are easier to find tools for, but since they are designed to cam out when a certain torque figure is achieved, they would probably be my last choice for this application.

                      Translation: I like Phillips-head fasteners about as much as I like a good chest cold.
                      '85 J20 Old Man Truck, bought @ 65K miles - not great, but better than walking.
                      Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
                      High quality junk here: intro thread and slow build thread

                      Did you know? Willys is just Willis spelled differently, but pronounced the same. Neither Willy nor his apostrophe are involved.

                      Comment

                      • FSJunkie
                        The Nigel Tufnel of the FSJ world.
                        • Jan 09, 2011
                        • 4040

                        #12
                        No.

                        Acid, dirt, water, and oxygen will get into the end of the wire where it clamps into the terminal and corrode both ther terminal and the wire. It'll build up resistance there and then you'll wonder why your starter drags on cold days. Starters are such high current devices that only a small amount of resistance in their power supply will cause a significant drop in voltage and power output.

                        1. Crimp
                        2. Solder
                        3. Adhesive-lined heat shrink.


                        All three. In that order.
                        '72 Jeep Wagoneer Custom, 360 V8

                        I love how arguements end as soon as Ristow comments. Ristow is right...again.

                        Comment

                        • joe
                          • Apr 28, 2000
                          • 22392

                          #13
                          Dielectric grease is your friend.
                          joe
                          "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

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                          • Tripwire
                            AMC 4 OH! 1
                            • Jul 30, 2000
                            • 4656

                            #14
                            that is exactly what i would have said i got lucky and collected a few toothpaste tube size tubes full of it....used it on X raymachines previously

                            steve
                            Abort? Retry? Ignore? >

                            86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

                            88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:

                            Comment

                            • scout4bta
                              258 I6
                              • Apr 26, 2018
                              • 324

                              #15
                              Originally posted by bkilby
                              I use (and sell) the Milspec terminals in that link. They're great terminals. Funny part is their pic shows two positive terminals. Lol. I don't have the covers though.
                              These terminals show the correct pair and not all the other stuff you probably don't need.
                              1989 GW/91.5 Dodge W250 CTD flatbed/ 06 Ford Crown Vic Police Intercepter/05 Jeep Liberty Diesel.

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