Coolant drips

[Rod2]

There is coolant dripping off the oil filter/oil pump housing. Is there a joint between the base of that unit and coolant passages in the block?

[440sixpack]

No. it's probably coming from the timing chain cover either on the gasket between the block or from a hole in the cover.

Could be the water pump or a hose connection as well. check out the easy stuff first.

[Rod2]

Thanks, but either one sounds like a bear to fix. Nevertheless, it's gotta' be done if it stays mobile. The hose connections are dry, and I can see no trail from the pump pulley. So you have probably nailed it.

[tgreese]

Look at the seal vent hole on your water pump. Very common that the seal in the water pump fails and a bit of coolant comes out the hole. The bearing fails soon afterward. Replace water pump.

[Rod2]

Good possibility, tg, but I can't see any trace of a leak from the vent hole. But I'll keep looking and keep your suggestion in mind. Thanks to you, too.

[Kaiserjeeps]

I just fired off a completely rebuilt engine in a 70 wagoneer I have been restoring. When I added coolant I put in alumaseal. I had a drip at one of the timing cover bolts, (New TA performance cover) two of the hoses despite pretty tight clamps, and the upper tank had seam that leaked from a broken solder joint. All the leaks have stopped and I suspect the radiator might still have to come out for the solder joint repair. But for now it is not leaking even with pressure. I was also told all new cars come of the factory assembly lines with alumaseal or a small leak stopper in the cooling systems. I also have read half a dozen times that using a product like that will clog up your cooling system, heater core etc.... I after many years of using alumaseal have never once seen any type of build up to validate any of the statements I have read.
I cannot say the same for bars leaks. I have seen a lot of residue from Bars leaks. Alumaseal is a fine powder and in my opinion works absolutely great with no side affects. You might add half a tube and see what happens. Also find exactly where it is coming from. I had to look closely but found where each leak originated. They all are gone.

[letank]

No. it's probably coming from the timing chain cover either on the gasket between the block or from a hole in the cover.

Could be the water pump or a hose connection as well. check out the easy stuff first.

2X, best to use a pressure test tool. Go to your parts store that loans tool, such as autozone or oreillys and borrow the pressure tool for the cooling system. In my case at 5psi it showed a failing gasket at the timing cover coolant passages... Our system runs at about 12-15psi depending on year



tedious to fix because of the various bolt length... and the other discoveries... but a good time to change the timing chain, water pump...

[rang-a-stang]

Yeah, letank brings up a good point. Be aware that fixing this little coolant leak, could turn into a huge ordeal.

If you decide to pull your timing chain cover, plan on rebuilding your oil pump and replacing your timing chain at the same time. It's takes a while to take that much of the engine down so you might as well do it all at the same time. This was an extremely dirty job on my rig. Also, it is not uncommon for a water pump to fail RIGHT after you finish fixing everything else. I am not sure if it's murphy's law or if us poking around in there is what does it but it happens.

My timing chain cover was severely corroded. To the point where there was a hole in a coolant passage. Be ready to find a new timing cover (worse case).

I am not trying to talk you out of fixing it; nothing on this job is hard or that expensive (unless you pay a mechanic to do it) and there are no speacial tools needed. Just don't expect it to be done in 2 hours on a weekday night if you need to drive your truck to work the next morning.