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  #1  
Old 09-10-2012, 11:55 AM
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Dirtfarmer Dirtfarmer is offline
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edelbrock intake

There seem to be numerous types of edelbrock performer intakes for an amc v8, which one should I use for a 360 in a j truck. Thinking of going to a RV style cam and some sort of 4 barrel carb, Havent decided on what carb yet.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:32 PM
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The base Performer would be best. The air gap is not a match for the RPM range of the RV cam. Most RV cams operate from off-idle to 3000 RPM.

If you could find an old SP2P it might be even better. Check the Holley, Offy, and Weiand offerings - you may find a better match to the RV cam.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:33 PM
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SP2P is wrong for any AMC motor over the size of 304. Unless its forced induction. The other you don't want is the Torker because it's really a "revver" intake (open plenum is poor fuel mixing at low rpm).
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:44 PM
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eddy 2131 non egr
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  #5  
Old 09-10-2012, 11:30 PM
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performer works fine on a 304, 360 and mild 401
R4B works well 360 and 401
Air gap works fine on a 360 or 401. it essentially replaced the R4B
Torker not on a stock motor

question where you will spend most of your driving time rpm wise and are you an automatic or a stick. my cj7 with moderate .500 lift cam and 9:1 CR runs a performer. that said an R4B would be a better match up for the rig. I ran an air gap and loved it and really had very little change in bottom end idle torque but much better mid range pull. i pulled it because of other issues and using it on a different project
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  #6  
Old 09-11-2012, 09:52 AM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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if i'm buying a new intake i'll pony up the 75.00 extra and get an Offy Equaflow.
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  #7  
Old 09-11-2012, 11:41 AM
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Well more info, I intend to build this 360 for almost entirely a daily driver, but the old gearhead in me wants a small amount of snort too. I am thinking at this point stock heads, a Melling MTA1 or equivelant. Shorty headers and some form of 4 barrel carb intake combo. I am running an auto in an 86 J10. I guess I would lean toward driveability before HP if that helps. This is my first AMC rebuild so any advice is 100% welcome. most of these decisions have been gleaned from this forum. Other factors are I plan to regear this truck as it seems like its extremely high geared, but not too deep maybe around 3.73's
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:03 PM
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you want longer headers. hedmans are mid length and are decent. the edelbrock headers are a waste of time and money.

the offy is a mid-range intake,but i really can't detect any loss of off idle power on mine.

otherwise your plan on the heads and cam is good.
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Ristows right.................again,




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... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.




Quote:
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I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!


→ Where the kids hang out...

fsjbuilder.org come for the mindless chat,stay for the hand drawn emoticons.

It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
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  #9  
Old 09-11-2012, 02:37 PM
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Off really big importance, while you have the intake manifold do the oil valley upgrade!! There is several good threads on this with tons of pics in the archives. Oiling to the back bearings has always been a little on the slack side in AMC V8's at best. With that, personally I like Eddy performer without the EGR, as I don't have to worry about emissions and it is relatively easy to find and works well with most other grunt improving options. Haven't tried the offy, so if anyone decides to get rid of one in the next year or so.... Good luck man, can't wait to see the build.
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  #10  
Old 09-11-2012, 03:17 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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i will never do that oil line thing. it has blown more engines up than it has saved.
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Quote:
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Ristows right.................again,




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!


→ Where the kids hang out...

fsjbuilder.org come for the mindless chat,stay for the hand drawn emoticons.

It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
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  #11  
Old 09-11-2012, 04:38 PM
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The need for oil mods for the AMC V8s are a myth. on a motor that doesn't see race RPM or severe abuse it is entirely unneeded. Good oil pressure, a good grade of oil, and a Napa Gold filter are all that is needed to run over 100k miles on a single motor. For a smog era V-8 over 100k miles is kinda rare.

RE: the intake/carb question. I like Edelbrock Performers. Non EGR if you can. But Ristow here does have a single-plane intake with a removable plenum divider (Is that right mikey). this would seem to even out fuel/air mixture delivery problems somewhat inherrent in dual-plane manifolds. Do not pick a single plane with an open plenum for your application. it will be a dog.

carb...any square-bore street/performance carb will suffice between 450 cfm and 600 cfm.

The original Carter AFBs on the 343/360 flowed about 469 cfm and was supposed to be a good little carb. hard to find these days and the carb neck for the filter housing is smaller than the typical 5.125" neck diameter.

Ristow does some Holley work and could point you in the right direction with a sub 500 cfm Holley 4150. These can be a really good carb, but Holleys are a bit complicated for my lazy-a55 to tinker with anymore.

Edelbrock has a 500cfm Performer. These are a copy of the 2nd generation Carter AFB built by Weber! Simple to tune and usually work well outta the box. Fewer gaskets involved than a Holley. Changing jets is easier/ cleaner in the ED Performers than in a Holley.

Getting a spread-bore or the Ford "goofy-bore" - (doesn't match ANY other carb base-plate) is a headache and doesn't really help anything.

All the square-bores are good, just depends on how you like to tune your carb.

Some "cheap" TBFI units are floating around too.. basically anything that flows 450-600 cfm ought to work.

Last edited by Tinkerjeep : 09-11-2012 at 04:41 PM.
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  #12  
Old 09-11-2012, 06:10 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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not removable. split single plane. which should be a mid-range intake,but i think it does as good as a dual plane down low too.

the offy is on my 401. 9.5 cr performer cam,4180 holley and 1.7 roller tip rockers.

it does in the 14+mpg consistently. has delivered over 15 before. 4" lift,33" m/t's.


my GW,with 360,same cam,carb,and performer dual plane intake. the cherokee will go farther on a gallon of gas consistently.

it's not all from the intakes. the added compression helps too,but the single plane intake should be a dud in the rpm range the 3.31 gears and 33" tires give,yet the engine runs crisp.

plus,as a benefit. it's one less edelbrock piece on yer motor.
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Originally Posted by Hankrod
Ristows right.................again,




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasts79Chief
I LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!


→ Where the kids hang out...

fsjbuilder.org come for the mindless chat,stay for the hand drawn emoticons.

It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
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  #13  
Old 09-11-2012, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ristow
not removable. split single plane. which should be a mid-range intake,but i think it does as good as a dual plane down low too.

the offy is on my 401. 9.5 cr performer cam,4180 holley and 1.7 roller tip rockers.

it does in the 14+mpg consistently. has delivered over 15 before. 4" lift,33" m/t's.


my GW,with 360,same cam,carb,and performer dual plane intake. the cherokee will go farther on a gallon of gas consistently.

it's not all from the intakes. the added compression helps too,but the single plane intake should be a dud in the rpm range the 3.31 gears and 33" tires give,yet the engine runs crisp.

plus,as a benefit. it's one less edelbrock piece on yer motor.

you're huffing av-gas!

14mpg! a mildly built 401 with 3.31:1 gears and 33s will definitely give you better mileage than the GW 360. Its all in "effective" final drive (final drive ring and pinion with tire diameter figured in) and power to make the higher final drive ratio workable! the 401 has the plums to make torque and power at lower revs than the 360.

As far as the split singleplane...okay. yours is a non-removable plenum splitter. David Vizard tested one with a removable splitter and got surprising results on the dyno. It sounds like a good deal for a motor that can take it.

Good info...dork.
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:41 PM
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BTW, Ristow - you running a manual gear-box behind the 401? I can't remember. that would likely help mileage too, no wasted power from torque convertor.
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  #15  
Old 09-11-2012, 07:40 PM
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Dirtfarmer Dirtfarmer is offline
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Thanks for the advice, I will probably go with the mid length headers. Question. How much roughly will decking the block to zero piston clearance change the compression ratio. Secondly what is a safe compression ratio to go with to still run regular 89 octane gas.
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
Thanks for the advice, I will probably go with the mid length headers. Question. How much roughly will decking the block to zero piston clearance change the compression ratio. Secondly what is a safe compression ratio to go with to still run regular 89 octane gas.

depends how far you have to deck it. I can't do the math on it in my head...its complicated. you are basically decreasing the volume in cubic centimeters that = pi R squared X amount of piston-down-cylinder at TDC . remove that volume from the total volume of the combustion chamber/ head gasket thickness and piston dish. and then compare that to the piston at bottom dead center X pi R squared and all that other volume...like I said...its not so easy.

but once you get around 9.5:1 you might be ready for 91 octane.

If your replacement piston is stock dish volume, and your heads are not shaved, you might only add maybe half a point or less in static compression by taking .020 off the block's top. So: .5+8.3 is 8.8:1 roughly...and that should fit with 89 octane...but alot depends on your ignition curve and fuel mixture too. its complicated.

A program called "Desktop Dyno" can do the math for you if you know all the variables ahead of time. Neat toy, that is.

To the point of 89 octane...why is 89 octane the magic number?
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:07 PM
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Dirtfarmer Dirtfarmer is offline
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I only used 89 octane because here in Nebraska almost all gas stations carry it. Matter of fact I think that is the highest available of the 3 gas stations in my small town. And if I truly want to use this as a daily driver then I dont want to be always looking around for a premium station. So technically if my block is straight and I found some 9.0:1 pistons (not even sure they're available) it would accomplish the same thing, is that correct?
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
I only used 89 octane because here in Nebraska almost all gas stations carry it. Matter of fact I think that is the highest available of the 3 gas stations in my small town. And if I truly want to use this as a daily driver then I dont want to be always looking around for a premium station. So technically if my block is straight and I found some 9.0:1 pistons (not even sure they're available) it would accomplish the same thing, is that correct?

Wow. nebraska isn't high altitude is it? here I'm 4500 feet above sea level and the highest octane is 91 octane. nearer the coast I think 93 octane is the highest pump-gas. seems odd that you only have 89 there. is it 10% ethyl there too? or higher percentage?

block being strait wont enter into it. the pistons being down all the holes at TDC the same amount is good, of course, but pistons being lower than stock by a few thou is okay. I think stock deck clearance on a 360 is around .014" .020 will be a bit more, and will lower compression.

I'd just find out how far down the new pistons are in the cyls and decide to shave the block so you have maybe .010" deck clearance.

No use in getting worked up over it now...its not like you are putting flat-top pistons in it or dropping combustion chamber volume from 61cc down to 51cc.

Last edited by Tinkerjeep : 09-11-2012 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:40 PM
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We are at about 1600 ft above sea level here. We have some stations that carry 91 a few premium at 93 just none in my hometown and Im 30 miles away from the nearest midsized city. The gas around here is 87 regular unleaded and 89 E10 ethanol. I tend to run regular unleaded in my low MPG trucks because it get better mileage i feel.
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
We are at about 1600 ft above sea level here. We have some stations that carry 91 a few premium at 93 just none in my hometown and Im 30 miles away from the nearest midsized city. The gas around here is 87 regular unleaded and 89 E10 ethanol. I tend to run regular unleaded in my low MPG trucks because it get better mileage i feel.

Wow. Okay 89 w/10% eth...should stand up to pinging/spark-knock/detonation CAUSED BY high-compression better than regular 89 gasoline...but I'm NOT sure on that. 89 is 89...you'd think, but alc runs a bit cooler...whether 10% is enough to be significant, I do not know.

lower octane fuel is cheaper to burn in bad mileage getters than higher octane. the only reason to run higher octane is to resist detonation.

(EDIT...had cart before the horse up there concerning detonation/high compression. OoPS.)

Last edited by Tinkerjeep : 09-11-2012 at 09:03 PM.
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