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  #1  
Old 10-23-2012, 04:57 PM
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trickc trickc is offline
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What rear axle to run?

Burned up a rear wheel bearing on the choptop...again. I suspect this axle is fubar'd. The last time the axle shaft and wheel came out and rolled down the road, didn't get that bad this time but its still trashed.

I need to stay 6 lug and 3.54-3.55 geared to match the front which I just rebuilt with new bearings/brakes/calipers etc. so changing the front out at this point is not feasable. I know a 14 bolt and dana 60 is the bomb diggity but its also not in the budget. I was running wt axles on the wag. welding new perches on is not a problem.

Yes I was running 36 tsl swampers with a lincoln locked wt dana 44, it held up for 10+ years prior to the wheel bearing issue.

Ford 8.8? Chevy??? dodge??? Suggestions? Cheaper the better.
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73 j-4000 "buttercup"-SOA 36's 4 door cab


78 wagoneer choptop-SOA 36's, 6 point cage, blah blah blah

Last edited by trickc : 10-23-2012 at 05:02 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-23-2012, 05:10 PM
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ClovisMan ClovisMan is offline
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12 bolt Chevy axles are 6 lug as are the 14 bolt semi-float. Of course wide track Cherokee and j-truck axles are to.

If you pick up one from a later model Chevy, you'll get rear discs as well!
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  #3  
Old 10-23-2012, 08:22 PM
Kevin armstrong Kevin armstrong is offline
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The six lug 14 bolt semi floater is your best bet for a six lug set up. I think they are arounf 67 inches wide which is 2 inches wider than your front widetrac and 6 inches wider than a wide trac d44 rear. For a semi float, they have a pretty large axleshaft, I think its 1.5". They came in the light weight 3/4 ton 88 and later and the heavy half ton. Yeah, it was a 6 lug 2500 and a six lug 1500. They arent that hard to find, unless you need one in a hurry of course. I have had a bunch of 8 lug vehicles with the semi float 14 bolt and never had a single problem with them.
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  #4  
Old 10-24-2012, 10:22 AM
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And I have destroyed several of them. (sheared 2 off at the flange) D44 is stronger.
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  #5  
Old 10-24-2012, 11:52 AM
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Biggest issue with a semifloat 14b is it uses 14mm studs. Late 10b use 12mm studs.
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:52 PM
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alwomac alwomac is offline
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If the last 44 got you 10 years of use on 36s and you are keeping the front as is with the same tire, I would go with the 44 again. Ground clearance on the 14 bolt is terrible, the pumpkin is huge and heavy as hell. I would slap another WT in and wheel the pee out of it. If you go the 14 bolt route they do have a 6 lug 65" version I believe that came in vans that would go well with your WT front which should be about 65" wms. Mine is 67" with the 8 lug hubs out front which added about an inch a side if I remember it all right.
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1978 Cherokee 360, 400/QT, HD44, Dana 60, 4.88's, locked, 36s on H1s, SOA/SF, high steer, Rancho RS5000's (14" front/11" rear travel) lots of dents
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  #7  
Old 10-24-2012, 06:50 PM
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Bill Moore Bill Moore is offline
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Can you get the 14b in that gear ratio? I thought 3.73 was the highest
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  #8  
Old 10-24-2012, 07:41 PM
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Cecil14 Cecil14 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Moore
Can you get the 14b in that gear ratio? I thought 3.73 was the highest

Highest I see on Randy's is 3.42. That's *probably* close enough for 3.54, but I would definitely recommend asking the question. It's certainly getting to the edge of the safe zone. Tire pressure would make a significant difference there.


aa
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  #9  
Old 10-25-2012, 05:28 AM
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:fingers crossed: I think I have found another wt axle here close by to replace it with. Next go round will probably see an upgrade to 8 lug somethings or rockwells.
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73 j-4000 "buttercup"-SOA 36's 4 door cab


78 wagoneer choptop-SOA 36's, 6 point cage, blah blah blah
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  #10  
Old 10-25-2012, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cecil14
Highest I see on Randy's is 3.42. That's *probably* close enough for 3.54, but I would definitely recommend asking the question. It's certainly getting to the edge of the safe zone. Tire pressure would make a significant difference there.


aa

3.42 is higher than 3.54 and 3.42 is also available for D44s
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  #11  
Old 10-25-2012, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnuck
3.42 is higher than 3.54 and 3.42 is also available for D44s

Yup, but it'd be completely stupid to regear to drop .12. Especially if you don't need to.


aa
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  #12  
Old 10-25-2012, 04:56 PM
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If I regear at all it'll be the other direction to 4.10's or 4.56's. For that matter if I'm gonna spend that kinda money it be 5.39's in a set of rockwells and a set of tractor tires.
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73 j-4000 "buttercup"-SOA 36's 4 door cab


78 wagoneer choptop-SOA 36's, 6 point cage, blah blah blah
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  #13  
Old 10-25-2012, 06:37 PM
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Cecil14 Cecil14 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trickc
If I regear at all it'll be the other direction to 4.10's or 4.56's. For that matter if I'm gonna spend that kinda money it be 5.39's in a set of rockwells and a set of tractor tires.

Bingo. Do it once and get the ratio you want endgame. It costs WAY too much to regear just to match ratios for that little bit, even if you do it yourself.


aa
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  #14  
Old 10-25-2012, 09:17 PM
SVO42 SVO42 is offline
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Ford 8.8" out of an F-150 is about 65" WMS-WMS IIRC. Those 8.8s have the 5 on 5.5" pattern instead of the commonly-swapped Explorer 8.8" which is 5 on 4.5". To get a match to your front you could get some of these: http://www.ezaccessory.com/Wheel_Adapter_5_Lug_5_5_To_6_Lug_5_5_p/5550-6550f.htm
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  #15  
Old 10-25-2012, 09:31 PM
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novacayne75 novacayne75 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnuck
And I have destroyed several of them. (sheared 2 off at the flange) D44 is stronger.
funny and i wish i had known that before i beat the snot out of one with 37's for a couple years.
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  #16  
Old 10-25-2012, 10:59 PM
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stuff a 8.9" JK R&P into that rear 44 housing and wheel the snot out of it.

If you twist a shaft stuff some alloys in there then. The jk ring and pinion is huge and Is rated for 5300+ ftlbs of momentary torque vs a Dana 60 35 spline at 6000 and 30 spline at 5500 and a std Dana 44 at 3460 ftlbs Having the three side by side the jk pinion is just a hair smaller than a Dana 60 pinion all in the same ratios. now im not saying the JK R&P is everything but when we are all sitting here complaining about issues with our rear dana 44 R&P's and that being what typically breaks and then looking for a 5 lug or 6 lug alternative that is the same or simialr width with minimal housing stregth gain in some cases then it might be worth a second look.

I know that now after a year+ i and others have now pushed the JK R&P in scout rear housings and cherokee chief rear housings as well as in several front end projects for broncos, scouts, waggys all rigs are pushing 35's or larger mine is on 37's and has run 38.5's but i also went with 35 spline shafts. all of the rigs listed have detroits, ARB's or Ploks and see plenty of trail time between las vegas, rubicon and moab and none of us has had a R&P failure since doing the upgrades. we are all running healthy v8's, a couple guys with 401's a few with ford 351's and one with a 392 powered scout, a twisted shaft here or there but after alloys that seems to become a thing of the past also.

now the discussion shifts to housing and tube strength
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Last edited by dusty : 10-26-2012 at 01:11 PM.
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  #17  
Old 10-26-2012, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by novacayne75
funny and i wish i had known that before i beat the snot out of one with 37's for a couple years.

I killed them with 33" on a WT Cherokee.
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  #18  
Old 10-26-2012, 04:39 PM
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oh yeah you can find jk R&P takeouts like whats on WFO's webpage of used parts from rubicons for $40-80 all over the place. the yoke is $60 and pinion bearings $+/-35-45.

you can reuse your existing carrier and carrier bearings if its a 3.54 (3.73 and dwn) gear set. food for thought

you'll need to
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The 608.9 hybrid dana 44 build

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