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  #1  
Old 06-27-2001, 02:59 AM
Iron Horse Iron Horse is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Jan 20, 2001
Location: Kingsley, MI
Posts: 1,097
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Okay I'm halfway through my water pump replacement- no problems (KOFW: knock on fake wood)yet. As I'm removing/loosening all of the **** brackets to get to the water pump, I think to myself- "self, you should just pitch that smog pump, I mean it's halfway undone now and besides all of those air tubes are rusted off anyway." Hey, who said that Anyway...oh yeah, my question:
So sage FSJ wrenches, what are the consequences of removal, and what else should (if any) I remove while I'm in there. BTW I live in N.W. Michigan, land of "emissions check- we don't need no stinking emissions checks!"

------------------
Andy

Iron Horse: 1988 GW 360/TF727/NP229/D44's F/R, 31x10.5 BFG AT's stuffed in stock wheel wells, and no WOOD.
soon to have:
BDS 4" lift, 3" body lift, 33"-35" BFG MT's, complete repaint and body work
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  #2  
Old 06-27-2001, 03:08 AM
Bryan Bryan is offline
Grease Monkey
 
Join Date: May 01, 2000
Location: Wenatchee WA
Posts: 424
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I just replaced mine after I ran without one for about 2 weeks and I can tell you it ran just fine. I dont know what the consequences are to your motor but I do recall reading somewhere on here that if you are going to remove the smog pump you really need to remove all the emissions crud and there are some specific hoses and vacuum lines that need to be rerouted/plugged etc.. but I have no ideas which one. Anyways let us know if you find out cause I would like to remove all my emmission stuff too, the motor is so much easier to work on without it!!

------------------
1988 GW 30x9.50 TXR's, 2.5 inch exh w/high flow cat & muffler
1977 Cherokee, 360, T-18 4spd, D20 transfer case.
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  #3  
Old 06-27-2001, 03:27 AM
Gladi8r Gladi8r is offline
Bleedin' Gasoline
 
Join Date: Jun 20, 2000
Location: Littlestown, Pa. USA
Posts: 1,733
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Built a 360 years ago to put into my 83 CJ7 and did not install any of the emission crap when I built it. I removed everything and went to the hardware store and found caps for the exhaust manifolds where the lil tubes go. Man, that thing ran strong and would practically pull a house down

------------------
DON

1988 GW mostly stock, <---Wifey's truck (won't let me "fix it up")

1971 J-4000,Rhino Grille(to be installed)
360 CID 2v, 245 HP, 365 ft/lb
T-18A, Dana 20, PTO, DANA 44 (Front/Rear)
71 Gladiator Pics

78 GW (parts truck)
360 4v Th400
Dana 44 F/R
78 Wagoneer Pics
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  #4  
Old 06-27-2001, 03:56 AM
RudyC
 
Posts: n/a
Thumbs up

If you dont need it, remove it. I wont affect it at all. You may however clog your cat converter if your motor is on the rich side, but you can 86 that too I guess.

------------------
DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!!
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  #5  
Old 06-27-2001, 04:21 AM
Langdon Langdon is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: May 06, 2000
Location: Oregon
Posts: 717
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I have no smog pump/tubing, no cat. converter, no egr, and no problems (for now)!
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  #6  
Old 06-27-2001, 04:44 AM
80wag.Darryl 80wag.Darryl is offline
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Join Date: Jan 27, 2001
Location: Penticton, B.C. Canada
Posts: 159
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Just one thing,I removed mine some time ago.If I recall correctly,one of my alternator bolts mounted to it,and I had to add a bracket to mount it to the block.No big deal though.Just something to be aware of.

------------------
1980 Wag.Limited
360,727,D.44'S
S.O.A. 32 X 11.50'S
"LEAD FOLLOW,OR GET THE F*#K OUT OF MY WAY"
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  #7  
Old 06-27-2001, 04:57 AM
fsj401 fsj401 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 19, 2001
Location: San Jose, Ca, USA
Posts: 214
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Ok, well, I just went through all this...and well, i have a 77 chief w/401 and the smog pump is not needed at all. What I did was right after i passed the ca emmissions, went home, removed the smog pump and the tubing that goes to the air injection manifolds, and put 1/2 inch pipe caps on the air injection manifolds. I also plugged my EGR, took off the edelbrock 1400 and stock air cleaner, and hooked back up the 1406 and edelbrock air cleaner, and it runs SO MUCH BETTER! well, thats my input.

Jeff
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  #8  
Old 06-27-2001, 05:42 AM
mulepic mulepic is offline
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Join Date: Nov 15, 2000
Posts: 51
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Well, I just removed mine two weekends ago b/c it was binding and grenaded itself. But, after removing it I noticed an electrical burning smell and I was preparing for the Wagon to self-combust. So I checked under the hood. There is (or was) a junction piece that connected the pump output to 2 or 3 other tubes. Well, that piece fell off somewhere on the highway and the tubes look like something exploded in them. I have no idea what happened and I'm really afraid to connect the new pump and try to pass emissions. So take it for what it's worth; but it sounds like you need to do a lot more than just remove the pump.
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  #9  
Old 06-27-2001, 06:15 AM
Dutch Dutch is offline
Grease Monkey
 
Join Date: Apr 10, 2000
Location: Portsmouth, Rhode Island
Posts: 345
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My 87 GW has absolutely no emissions of any kind. Do a search because I remember trying to explain step by step the process and what I learned along the way. Chilton's I'm not but it was pretty staightforward. Alot had to do with rerouting the fuel line and vacuum hoses for looks which is secondary to what you are wanting to do (never have to much chrome) but the info. might be useful.

Good luck
Dutch

------------------
360 Bored and Smoked
Edlebrock Carb, Cam, Covers and Manifold (They have a line item on my pay-stub).
K&N, MSD, Taylor, American Racing,
Goodrich, ConFerr, blah, blah, blah...Way to many stickers (for my wifes taste)
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