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Old 12-16-2018, 10:22 AM
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Towtruck Towtruck is online now
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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J10 Stepside redo

EDIT: I moved this thread to the "Build" section.

I modified my J10 about 15 years ago...lowered the front end a bit, stripped the decals and chrome, added roll pans, and painted it in PPG DP90 epoxy primer. Then I got busy on other things and left it in epoxy only. The epoxy held up surprisingly well without a UV resistant top coat, but has slowly started to erode from UV exposure in recent years. So I decided to repaint. Tried chemical stripping the old epoxy and gave up....tenacious nasty mess. Two weeks ago I tore it down to components and hauled the bed, fenders and hood to a media blaster. The cab, doors, inner fenders, and rear portion of the frame will be phase two.

Last week I chopped a hole in the side of the furnace plenum and added a big hose to pipe warm air into the attached garage. I also wrapped the inside of garage with plastic...instant paint booth. Hoping the HVLP turbine spray system I purchased is low overspray as advertised. Plan is to paint in two major sessions...first will be the bed, fenders and hood. Then the cab and rear half of the frame, which will be blasted in a couple of weeks. Epoxy primer goes on first, then urethane primer while the epoxy is still "open/un-cured". Once all the pieces are sealed with the epoxy, I'll move on to final top coat paint. This time, I'll use Eastwood hot rod black satin (single stage urethane) as a top coat. I'm using Raptor as a spray in bed liner...not as durable as Line-X or Rhino, but I like the look and ease of application.....this isn't really a work truck.

The cab will get a new windshield in the process. Staying with the blacked out look. I found a w/s gasket without the slits for chrome, so it will look a little more finished than the old chrome capable seal.

Might lower the rear suspension a bit by raising the spring attach points....depends how it looks in new paint. I just lowered the cab another 1/2 inch by removing the (already sectioned) forward cab donuts. The 1" at the rear were replaced with the 1/2" from the front. So, the front of the cab sits on a very thin nylon washer. The radiator/front sheet metal supports were lowered on the first go around. So the cab is now at rock bottom unless I start chopping into the floor supports. The radiator cap to hood clearance is 1/4", and there is 1/4" between the steering box and bottom of the (lowered) radiator. I'm happy with the rake angle, but don't like the large gap between wheels and rear fenders. So again, a spring pivot mod looks like the most realistic solution.

Other than the Raptor, I'm using Eastwood products. Used their "After Blast" on the stripped front fenders yesterday. It's a weak phosphoric acid and cleaner mixture. Keeps the bare metal from rusting for up to a couple of months (depending on where the part is stored). It really does work well. By the way, on the recommendation from the stripper I sanded the blasted surface with 220 before applying the After Blast. Also used it in the seams where the flares attach to the front fenders.

The step side rear fenders are fiberglass. The gel coat on the top is covered with tiny stress cracks. I'm not about to mess with new matt/resin and gel coat. Plan is to spray on Raptor, which is supposed to have good filling characteristics and is tough, yet flexible. I spoke with their tech guys and they think it might work. It sands pretty well, and can be over coated with the Eastwood urethane primer and/or finish urethane. We shall see....
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 02-14-2019 at 08:03 AM.
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  #2  
Old 12-16-2018, 02:00 PM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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all i know is eastwood has quality products

and i also know i love the stepside j trucks,...

sounds like yours is getting some TLC.

keep us posted on progress.

dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
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Old 12-16-2018, 07:33 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is online now
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Well, it's getting a $1000 disassembled media blasting, $1000 in paint supplies, and a ton of prep and paint work (free labor....me), $200 powder coated inner fenders. $200 windshield and gasket, $700 HVLP turbine sprayer, probably $500 to spruce up the interior, $150 to modify the garage to a heated spray booth. I guess it will be easier to sell this way and it needed a respray to fend off surface rust. Probably should have taken it to MAACO for a $250 Premium job. Actually I'm toying with selling it with epoxy and urethane primer applied, and let the next owner select and apply the finish coat in the color of their choice. Can't be many of the 1200 or so stepside Honchos left, and this one was never a rust bucket.
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 12-16-2018 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 12-16-2018, 07:38 PM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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Be a limited group looking for a 2 wheel drive jeep j-10 stepside, A nice paint job will always bring more money than a primer job.
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Old 12-16-2018, 07:49 PM
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It's still 4wd and would be sold with the 4wd components even if I convert it. I realize IFSJA is not a street truck crowd, but it draws far more attention now than when it was jacked up. Of course lookers aren't necessarily buyers. In any case,the modifications are easy to reverse. Color is a personal preference...I'd like the option of choosing if I was buying. In fact I was recently looking at a resto-mod Jaguar XJC coupe with a spectacular paint job in a color I hate....I passed on it for that reason alone. Guess I could offer it either way.
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 12-16-2018 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:39 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Where'd you get the windshield gasket? Please say you've found a source for new production trimless gaskets.
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  #7  
Old 12-17-2018, 11:43 AM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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There is a buyer out there for everything but if you offered to paint the color of choice that would help your chances greatly. Same for 2wd versus 4wd, as long as you have everything to convert back and someone is willing to that, your golden.
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Old 12-17-2018, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
Where'd you get the windshield gasket? Please say you've found a source for new production trimless gaskets.

Well, I thought I had found a source...but I was wrong. I ordered the gasket for an early year Gladiator from Team Grand Wagoneer about a month ago and never opened the box. I just opened it a few minutes ago....it has the provisions for the chrome trim. So I called the company (who were very helpful) and they were unaware of a part number for a seal without provisions for chrome. And even if there was a different style of seal, they said they wouldn't be putting it in productiion. The guy I spoke with said Jeep probably used the same seal for the no-trim trucks. I didn't have enough info to debate him about it. So, I guess I'll super glue the chrome slots closed and make it look as clean as possible. I would, however, still be interested in a unique part number for the non-chrome seal if there is/was such a thing. BTW, the seal from this company looks like an excellent product...the rubber is supple, etc.
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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Old 12-17-2018, 02:47 PM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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i think the primer option for prospective buyers is good too
( if you really want to sell )

some prospective buyers may want a different color than you choose
so that makes them realize they would have to pay for a total repaint after purchase......and an additional 2 to 5 grand to paint there fav. color could be a deal breaker for some.

i would not mind a 2wd j-10
heck the four 4WD vehicles i have never get put into 4WD
and like another member said,...
if you have the original 4WD stuff that is a plus.

nice and rare truck, it would sell like hot cakes in any condition.

dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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  #10  
Old 12-23-2018, 02:58 AM
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PlasticBoob PlasticBoob is offline
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I am not a fan of lowered/street trucks, and especially Jeep trucks and '68-'72 Blazers, but I have always admired and thought your J truck was perfectly executed.
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  #11  
Old 12-23-2018, 09:07 AM
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Towtruck Towtruck is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasticBoob
I am not a fan of lowered/street trucks, and especially Jeep trucks and '68-'72 Blazers, but I have always admired and thought your J truck was perfectly executed.


Thanks. By the way, the blasted parts are trickling in. Glad I didn't continue with chemical strip. I sand the bare surface of all blasted parts with 220 grit and then apply Eastwood After Blast. Zero evidence of flash rust. Painting starts next week. Tried out the new HVLP turbine spray system yesterday. Puts out a lot of paint very quickly, so gun technique is faster. The claim of reduced overspray is accurate. When I have the fenders, bed and hood in primer/raptor, etc, the cab/doors go the media blaster. So far the spouse is tolerant of the chemical smells leaking into the house. Helps if I cap the big heat hose to the garage when the furnace fan shuts off. I guess the vapors leak back up into the plenum when it's not pressured.
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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Old 12-31-2018, 04:52 PM
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I have the backside/bottom of the bed, fenders, and hood epoxy primered and top coated with Eastwood Chassis Black. The turbine HVLP sprayer worked perfectly in the garage environment...overspray is insignificant. However, the smell of the paint was pretty bad in the house. Next time I paint (the top surfaces) I'm going to wait for a 60-ish degree day, preheat the paint, guns, and body sections in the closed garage the night before....and then open the garage door part way when I spray the following day. The smell isn't a problem for me as I'm wearing a proper mask, but my spouse wasn't too happy.

Question. I sealed the front flare seams with a urethane type seam sealer...similar to the stuff used to seal modern windshields, but a little thicker. I hated working with it because I couldn't get a nice smooth bead (three tries), but it does penetrate and stick extremely well. Anyway, I wonder about putting a very thin skim coat of body filler over the sealer and then sanding it to improve the appearance of the seam? Anyone try this? Thanks
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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Old 02-10-2019, 08:35 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is online now
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EDIT: Moved to Build thread
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 02-12-2019 at 08:09 AM.
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Old 02-10-2019, 08:58 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is online now
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photos moved to Build section thread
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 02-12-2019 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 02-11-2019, 10:49 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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photos are perfect size to me

nice nice work

that is a dang solid j-10

going to be a fine ride.

dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
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Old 02-12-2019, 08:14 AM
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Driftwood Driftwood is offline
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Sigh...I've always yearned for a J10 or J20.
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