don't matter. put it together and run it. if you look at the slot,you can usually see scratch marks from the roll pin.
88 GW dies when it gets hot
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Originally posted by HankrodRistows right.................again,
Originally posted by Fasts79Chief... like the little 'you know what's' that you are.
Originally posted by Fasts79ChiefI LOVE how Ristow has stolen my comment about him ... "Quoted" it ... and made himself famous for being an ***hole to people. Hahahahahahahahahha!
It's like you're unraveling a big cable-knit sweater that someone keeps knitting...and knitting...and knitting...and knitting...
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Originally posted by aerocoreyEeh...my bad, I just read that again and I came off a Lil harsh. Didn't seem like that in my head when I typed it.
I would just try to retime the engine the old fashioned way by turning the engine to TDC and dropping in the distributor and lining it up.Ethan Brady
1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.
www.bigscaryjeep.com
Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.
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Originally posted by FSJunkieCam sensors on the newer Jeep 2.5, 4.0, 5.2, 5.9, and probably a few others were inside the distributor, under the rotor, and read the on-off pules from a one-bladed reluctor ring to tell the ECM when to fire which spark plug and fuel injector.
FSJ's have a sensor in the same place on an 8-bladed reluctor ring to tell the (primitive) ECM when to fire which spark plug. It serves a very similar purpose.
The difference is the distributor on newer engines is locked into place, so the distributor position correlates directly to camshaft position, hence why the sensor in the distributor is called the camshaft position sensor. On our FSJ engines, the distributor can be rotated independently of the camshaft, so the distributor sensor has no correlation to camshaft position. It is merely a distributor position sensor, pickup coil, trigger coil, whatever you want to call it.
I guess this is what IFSJA turned into while I was overseas for a few years. Y'all have a nice day.Corey
Current
87 GW "Big Bear"
76 J20 project "Ox"
90 GW parts rig "Velma"
77 J10 parts rig "NoMo" (as in "no more Jeeps, Corey!")
94 YJ "Coop"
Past
88 GW "Hercules" (had to sell in '08, curious who has it now)
83 Wag parts rig "Shaggy" (used to build Herc, then scrapped)
73 J4000 (had to sell due to PCS in '07)
75 Cherokee "Jerry Lee" (sold in '13 because I'm an idiot)
74 Cherokee "Dino" (used to build Jerry Lee, then scrapped)
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Incorrect taxonomy aside, it sort of works the same way. With EFI cam sensor housings are generally stationary (with either a rotating signal generator or a hall effect sensor that reads a tone ring) and most are non-adjustable as they tell the computer excatly when the motor is at TDC and how far it is from TDC intake stroke to control fuel injection.
The Jeep ignition pickup is a hall effect sensor that sends pulses to a transistorized ignition box to control spark only and not differentiate between which cylinder. The ignition rotor controls what cylinder gets the spark at the cap. The pickup coil just tells the ignition when to make a pulse and it doesn't know or care which cylinder. In that way it's more like a crank position sensor.Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.
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This is drving me nuts!
This is driving me crazy! I?ve replaced distributors many times, and never had this kind of problem. Set timing mark to TDC, rotor pointing to #1 wire, position of the distributor is identical to what it always was but all I can get is a back fire. I move the distributor a few degrees one way or the other and it still doesn?t work.
I?m on the verge of just going out and buying a new distributor but first I?ll see if anyone can give me some hint as to what might be going on.
Thanks again??..
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Originally posted by mgmannThis is driving me crazy! I’ve replaced distributors many times, and never had this kind of problem. Set timing mark to TDC, rotor pointing to #1 wire, position of the distributor is identical to what it always was but all I can get is a back fire. I move the distributor a few degrees one way or the other and it still doesn’t work.
I’m on the verge of just going out and buying a new distributor but first I’ll see if anyone can give me some hint as to what might be going on.
Thanks again……..Last edited by Carnuck; 07-05-2013, 09:34 AM.Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.
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Originally posted by mgmannThis is driving me crazy! I?ve replaced distributors many times, and never had this kind of problem. Set timing mark to TDC, rotor pointing to #1 wire, position of the distributor is identical to what it always was but all I can get is a back fire. I move the distributor a few degrees one way or the other and it still doesn?t work.
I?m on the verge of just going out and buying a new distributor but first I?ll see if anyone can give me some hint as to what might be going on.
Thanks again??..
Here's how to correct it:
With everything as is (distributor being installed 180 degrees out, engine backfire, etc):
Disconnect the battery
Turn the crank so that the timing mark on the balancer reads "TDC" and the distributor is pointing at the #1 plug.
THIS position is actually 180 degrees out of sync. NOW, turn the crank ONE REVOLUTION to "TDC" again.
VERY IMPORTANT: ONLY TURN IT ONCE!!!!
Now you will observe that the distributor is NOT pointing to the #1 plug at all. This is good. (at the moment.)
Next, PULL the distributor out and re-insert it so that it is pointing at the #1 plug.
Snug the distributor hold-down bolt a bit, but not too tight that you can't turn the distributor a little bit. (for timing it later).
Re-connect the battery. Hook up your timing light. Fire it up and time it as you would normally (engine at operating temp, distributor advance removed and vacuum line plugged).
Don't worry. I've had this happen to me, too, and I had to have someone remind me that there are two "top dead centers".Ethan Brady
1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.
www.bigscaryjeep.com
Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.
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Hanging my head in shame......
Yup, I was so rattled that I didn't bother to check if #1 was on the compression stroke. Obviously it wasn't. Got the beast running and timed. Had it idling for half an hour with ac on and so far it's still going. Sure hope this is the end of this hassle. If so I learned a lot. If not......back to the drawing board.
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This board has some very helpful chaps, and threads like this remind me of how great a community this is to be a part of.Tucker
88 GW, AMC 360 with Doug Thorley headers, Howell TBI, NP242, TF727, 3.31 gears and the tow package, Magnaflow muffler and cat, BJ's 4" springs + 2" blocks and 1" shackles, and 1" body lift, 32" BFG's, aluminum rad, K20 front brake calipers.
____________________
My Jeep has tricked me into thinking I know what I'm doing.
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Excellent news!Ethan Brady
1987 Grand Wagoneer, slightly longer than stock.
www.bigscaryjeep.com
Don't mess with me. I once killed a living hinge.
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I'm just stoked to see another Montanan on here2013 Dodge Durango R/T AWD-Hers
2000 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins-D.D.
1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 6" BJ's lift and 33's
1981 Jeep Wagoneer Limited
1981 Jeep J-10 Laredo new 401 6" BJs on the way
1980 Jeep Cherokee Laredo 401
1980 Jeep CJ-5 Laredo 304
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