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  #21  
Old 11-28-2005, 12:46 PM
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J10-401 J10-401 is offline
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Not to be a spoil-sport or anything but.... That's the same instrument cluster and gauge types used in maybe a million total Hornets, Gremlins, Javelins etc. How come I never heard of this fire hazard issue in the cars?

Don't get me wrong, it still looks really nice and if I were to completly rewire my Jeep I'd likely go to a voltmeter if only to simplify things.

[ November 28, 2005, 07:49 PM: Message edited by: J10-401 ]
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  #22  
Old 11-28-2005, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by J10-401:
Not to be a spoil-sport or anything but.... That's the same instrument cluster and gauge types used in maybe a million total Hornets, Gremlins, Javelins etc. How come I never heard of this fire hazard issue in the cars?

Don't get me wrong, it still looks really nice and if I were to completly rewire my Jeep I'd likely go to a voltmeter if only to simplify things.
Have you taken a REAL close look at the wiring in your Jeep? To put it mildly, it's junk from the factory. Maybe the true AMC cars had better quality components installed.
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  #23  
Old 11-28-2005, 02:02 PM
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Any wiring is junk after 15-years. Especially if people make modifications with no understanding of what's required. There is no difference from car to Jeep in the wiring harnesses. Same connectors, wire gauges and wrappings. Maybe some lengths are different and some extra functions - but essentially the same.

A new engine harmess is in my future plans for the same reasoning. It gets the most heat and flexing. So the copper gets work-hardened and the plastic connector shells and wire insulation become cracked and brittle too.

[ November 28, 2005, 09:06 PM: Message edited by: J10-401 ]
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\'84 J10 Pioneer -- Edelbrock headers, Intake. MSD 8778 Ignition. MC 4-bl carb. 1970 "319" 51-CC heads. Comp cam. 401/727 B&M truck-shifter (floor), 3.73:1 gears. 31\"x12.5\"x15 ProComp A/T tires on M/T Classic II 15x10 wheels. Rear swaybar. Bucket seat conversion & redone interior. Interior roll bar and 4-point harnesses.
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  #24  
Old 11-28-2005, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by J10-401:
Any wiring is junk after 15-years. Especially if people make modifications with no understanding of what's required. There is no difference from car to Jeep in the wiring harnesses. Same connectors, wire gauges and wrappings. Maybe some lengths are different and some extra functions - but essentially the same.
So I take it..you haven't looked closely at your rigs wiring harness??

[ November 28, 2005, 09:06 PM: Message edited by: Retro93 ]
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  #25  
Old 12-11-2005, 12:27 PM
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Kenall Kenall is offline
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Well I just got done with my retro fit, works great.

Instead of using part of the lable from the voltmeters face, I just used the gauge 'faces' from a later wag with the icon (instead of words) of a bat instead of the word AMP
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  #26  
Old 12-11-2005, 02:31 PM
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"So I take it..you haven't looked closely at your rigs wiring harness?? "

Ya got me thinkin'. I started looking at all the places where wiring could rub on sharp edges and things like that. Maybe they did overlook what can happen in real offroad shake and vibration. So I made a lot of changes with liberal re-routing and tiewraps.
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\'84 J10 Pioneer -- Edelbrock headers, Intake. MSD 8778 Ignition. MC 4-bl carb. 1970 "319" 51-CC heads. Comp cam. 401/727 B&M truck-shifter (floor), 3.73:1 gears. 31\"x12.5\"x15 ProComp A/T tires on M/T Classic II 15x10 wheels. Rear swaybar. Bucket seat conversion & redone interior. Interior roll bar and 4-point harnesses.
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  #27  
Old 12-13-2005, 07:02 AM
Magnum CJ Magnum CJ is offline
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what an awesome idea. just so happens my ammeter crapped out on me last saturday. I spent 3 hours tracing down why my ignition switch and accessories had no battery power. don't know about the fire hazard, but mine burned open altogether. I already did the jumpering part, but the voltmeter substitution is a great idea. Good Job! thanks.
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  #28  
Old 12-13-2005, 07:47 AM
Sitting Bull Sitting Bull is offline
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My compliments...
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  #29  
Old 12-13-2005, 02:37 PM
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Wow great job!!! If I do this I'll need a new place to put my tach, it currently blocks the amp gauge(not used due to the ammeter bypass/upgrade) Excellent job!
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  #30  
Old 12-13-2005, 02:41 PM
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Heimeken Heimeken is offline
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Excellent, best tech post I've seen in long time. Thanks.
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  #31  
Old 12-14-2005, 12:32 AM
bvibert bvibert is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Heimeken:
Excellent, best tech post I've seen in long time. Thanks.
Definitely, I'd say its suitable for the archives...
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  #32  
Old 12-18-2005, 11:13 AM
2manywags 2manywags is offline
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Did this conversion on my 82 today. Thanks for the post!
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  #33  
Old 04-25-2006, 08:04 PM
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Just finished this and It looks great, I mounted mine slightly higher so the blue line is not as visible and raised it off the bracket by the thickness of the paper washer and it sits at the same level as the ammeter. I had to add wings from the bezel that I cut the word volt out of because you could see just ever so slightly behind it. Thanks for the great write up!!!
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  #34  
Old 08-29-2007, 04:58 PM
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That's friggin awesome!
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  #35  
Old 06-04-2009, 07:17 AM
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Headhoncho Headhoncho is offline
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I was bored and ran across this sticky at the perfect time. I just installed a Taurus fan and a 95 amp alternator to my truck. I was in fear of frying my amp gauge (which I have never been a fan of) so I picked up this volt gauge for 12.99 at Autozone and went to town. I followed the instructions and now I have a great looking and funtional new volts gauge. I also ran a 10 awg jumper direct from the alternator to the + side of the soleniod just for added insurance. Also, while I had the instrument bezel apart I checked/replaced bulbs and cleaned all copper surfaces. I have dash lights I never knew I had before!!!

Thanks again for the R&D. Much appreciated.


JR
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