Another charcoal canister question

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  • mgmann
    232 I6
    • Jun 12, 2007
    • 95

    Another charcoal canister question

    The lines leading to my charcoal canister in my 88 GW are rotting out big time. There’s no way I can get at the ones that run down behind the engine and I don’t even know if the lines that are in place are going where they should.

    That being said, I live in a state with no emissions requirements and I’ve also read all the posts that talk about getting a gas smell if you remove the canister.

    What if I were to remove the canister, plug the lines and replace the stock gas cap with a vented one. Would that work or would I be opening another can of worms?
  • Tripwire
    AMC 4 OH! 1
    • Jul 30, 2000
    • 4656

    #2
    i removed mine, did not even plug them, only very occasionally do i have a slight gas smell

    steve
    Abort? Retry? Ignore? >

    86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/229 swap BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

    88 Wrangler 4.2, Howell TBI and MSD - Borla Headers w/ Cat-back + winch and 31's AND a M416 trailer (-:

    Comment

    • acct21
      327 Rambler
      • May 20, 2014
      • 735

      #3
      You have to vent the tank. If you can live with the smell, just vent the cap. The lines behind the engine are hard lines; you can reach them with the rubber lines from the engine bay. The ones from the tank can't really be done without dropping the tank.
      1990 Grand Wagoneer with HD towing package -- everything works! (for now...)

      Comment

      • ZackN920
        350 Buick
        • Nov 18, 2015
        • 944

        #4
        to add to the above about the tank...
        If ya think about it, the soft lines on the tank should be replaced too due to age. I'd keep it and replace the lines. If ya wait, you could (eventually)develop a fuel leak like my 87 dodge has up at the top of the tank. Pulling it this week to replace the soft lines on it.

        Mine under the hood are getting real deteriorated looking too. Plenty of cracks if the lines are squeezed or bent with my hands. It wont be easy, but I'm pretty sure I can replace them while laying on the engine. Its not easy working on stuff back there, but it can be done. I'll do that when I do valve cover gaskets (because I'll have to get it all out of the way anyways...)
        1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

        AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
        Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
        ...in pieces for more rust repair...

        Comment

        • johnsonic
          258 I6
          • Mar 12, 2015
          • 335

          #5
          Both of the Wagoneers I've had came with the canister detached and the rubber hose just venting to the engine compartment. I did smell a tiny bit of gas on the last one, but this one not so much.

          There's probably a better / safer place to vent gas fumes than the engine compartment though.
          1984 GW
          360
          Comp 260H
          Harland Sharp Roller Rockers
          Wiseco -21cc Forged Pistons
          Performer Intake
          Holley SA 670
          MSD 8523
          Dakota Digital custom cluster
          Serehill headlamp harness
          NWMP aux tank

          1987 GW deceased
          ...but the parts live on

          Comment

          • mgmann
            232 I6
            • Jun 12, 2007
            • 95

            #6
            I'm real close to trying this.....

            I'm getting real tired of dealing with all those leaky vacuum lines and think I'm going to remove the canister and everything that goes with it.


            Has anyone tried using an older style vented cap rather than having the lines vent into the engine compartment?

            Comment

            • babywag
              out of order
              • Jun 08, 2005
              • 10286

              #7
              Lot more work to remove it all than just replace the hoses.

              If you yank it the carb bowl, PCV, and distributor vacuum is all routed to canister.
              Be sure to adjust the hose routing accordingly.
              Tony
              88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

              Comment

              • acct21
                327 Rambler
                • May 20, 2014
                • 735

                #8
                Tony's right -- it isn't that difficult to replace the lines, and they serve a good purpose. I had an insane fuel leak from the vents plugging on top of my tank -- replaced them, along with 100% of the soft lines from the tank to the hard lines, and from the hard lines to the canister. Now everything works just like it's supposed to, and I don't have to smell gas in my garage.
                1990 Grand Wagoneer with HD towing package -- everything works! (for now...)

                Comment

                • tgreese
                  • May 29, 2003
                  • 11682

                  #9
                  Originally posted by acct21
                  Tony's right -- it isn't that difficult to replace the lines, and they serve a good purpose. I had an insane fuel leak from the vents plugging on top of my tank -- replaced them, along with 100% of the soft lines from the tank to the hard lines, and from the hard lines to the canister. Now everything works just like it's supposed to, and I don't have to smell gas in my garage.
                  +1 for Tony and Acct21. Just fix it. Not difficult.
                  Tim Reese
                  Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
                  Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
                  Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
                  GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
                  ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

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