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  #41  
Old 12-04-2012, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OutrageGIS
Love the ammeter mod! Just bypassed mine so far but you've got me thinking... Nice work!

Yeah, I would suggest at the very least getting the voltmeter so if they do up and discontinue that style youre not S.O.L.
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  #42  
Old 12-05-2012, 09:42 PM
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Thanks for the heads up! Just checked the AZ app on my phone & my local store has the CP7985 in stock - I'll pick up one tomorrow.

Not a huge fan of AZ parts but they DO have the best iphone app of all the big box shops in my town. Bypass the person at the counter and just give them the part number when you walk up. Learned the hard way to look their parts over REALLY good before installing them - put new (not rebuilt!) driveaxels in the wife's focus wagon a couple of months ago. Passenger side (long one) is only held in by a carrier bearing secured by a strap to the subframe. This bearing is firmly pressed onto the axle. I tapped the bearing with a drift to ensure it was fully seated before installing it, and the car drove well for a whole week. Wife drove 200 miles to visit her mom, got there ok and on a short trip (thankfully) later that day the car loses all power and strands them. I drop what I'm doing (not a good time) and head down there in the jeep ($120 in gas) tow the car to her moms house and tear into it. The carrier bearing slipped out and turns out to be super loose on the axle (I only tapped it to ensure it was seated, shoulda tugged on it too I guess) , allowing it to pull out of the diff and dump all the tranny fluid. The moral of the story is that from AZ, or any other mega parts house, look for things that you wouldn't normally expect to have too. Worked out ok - iphone app showed an axle at the local AZ by mother in laws - even open early on sunday! They gave me the new axle and threw in $40 worth of tranny fluid to help with my gas cost. Still a pain and avoidable if I'd just looked a little closer...

Anyway - does the dash light illuminate the voltmeter as before? The best part of the ammeter bypass is that when you unhook it, the needle is always in the middle. Kinda of like fixing a check engine light by putting electrical tape over it! I gotta get on this - thanks for the great pics.
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  #43  
Old 12-06-2012, 07:52 AM
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Getting parts from autozone is kinda like eating out of a gas station; get the stuff already sealed before it reaches the station, and you should be good.

Also the mod does not affect dash lights unless you grind into a lead or something but if you look at my pics or the tech archive pics of the original poster you'll see that you shouldnt need to.
But while you have it apart you may as well replace your cluster lights and replace the vacuum lines for your heater.

And actually now that you mention it, with my old voltmeter removed it's still cocked toward the charged side hehe That's amc accuracy for ya.

Now with this mod how they have you wire it the voltmeter is going to be active at all times. But the OP states that the gauge only pulls about as much as the memory on the radio or the clock so it's a non issue.
You will also need to create a new wire from the output of the alternator to the battery side of the solenoid.

Just a heads up.
I've yet to re-install everything and I'll let ya know when I do.
And if youre worried about doing it you can always drop by and we can knock it out here.

Mike
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  #44  
Old 12-07-2012, 06:28 AM
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Got the cluster back in last night, the voltmeter works great!
I also had time to test my other gauges and they all work!
Found that my dash lights and signals were missing a ground resulting in a disco effect when the headlights were on. Got that resolved.

And now it's just running the wire from the output of the alternator to the battery side of the solenoid and working on the gauge senders to see if I cant get some input/output in the dash.

Mike
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  #45  
Old 12-07-2012, 10:42 AM
91blaze 91blaze is offline
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Hey I'm doing the voltmeter mod like you did, is there some special way to get the trim ring off the voltmeter? I've tried prying it off with pliers and a screwdriver, but nothing will work.
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  #46  
Old 12-07-2012, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91blaze
Hey I'm doing the voltmeter mod like you did, is there some special way to get the trim ring off the voltmeter? I've tried prying it off with pliers and a screwdriver, but nothing will work.

Very small screwdriver and a set of sidecutters. There's a very very small notch at the back of the ring on the housing. I was able to work the tip of the screwdriver into it and get some space opened up then used the sidecutters to grab and roll peel the bezel open. I ended up breaking the glass because I got impatient.

Mike
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  #47  
Old 12-07-2012, 12:54 PM
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Well it's down.. AGAIN!

Got the dash buttoned up and rewired the alternator feed. Started it up and checked the voltage at the bettery and it's charging nicely with 14.4v -to- 14.6v at idle. Right where it should be.

Drove it to the DMV and got my out of state inspection done and then bought plates.

On the way home it sounded like something broke loose under the hood. LOUD popping sound is the best I can describe. Still got me home but was NOT happy. I give it gas it makes noise, give it more it starts to miss hard and backfire through the carb. I wonder if I broke a bridgeover?

So I get it home and it dies in the driveway, was hard to restart but I got it parked and idling. It idles faily well but any gas and it starts to complain.
It's noisey up top and that leads me to think I've broken a brideover and I've got a rocker off or something because it was running like a champ and still had enough power after it broke loose to pull along at 60 mph. I was not going to let it stop on the highway in the rain.

But I have to say this thing is starting to tick me off, every time I take it anywhere it tries to leave me.

Not freakin cool.

Mike
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  #48  
Old 12-07-2012, 02:26 PM
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The PIG Smith The PIG Smith is offline
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Bummer!
If you think it's a rocker bridge...fairly easy to diagnose.
Just pull a valve cover and it should be plain a day.
If it is a rocker bridge, I would like to think, pull the broken parts and bolt new parts on.
I hope you find a simple fix and not something deeper into the engine.
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Quote:
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...but if it works, I wouldn't touch it.
Quote:
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  #49  
Old 12-07-2012, 03:28 PM
91blaze 91blaze is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
Very small screwdriver and a set of sidecutters. There's a very very small notch at the back of the ring on the housing. I was able to work the tip of the screwdriver into it and get some space opened up then used the sidecutters to grab and roll peel the bezel open. I ended up breaking the glass because I got impatient.

Mike

Thanks
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  #50  
Old 12-08-2012, 02:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The PIG Smith
Bummer!
If you think it's a rocker bridge...fairly easy to diagnose.
Just pull a valve cover and it should be plain a day.
If it is a rocker bridge, I would like to think, pull the broken parts and bolt new parts on.
I hope you find a simple fix and not something deeper into the engine.

I did some searching and found another guy who described symptoms exactly like mine. Turned out to be a clogged pushrod causing the rocker and pushrod to wear into each other until it seized and snapped off.

Also it's interesting, looking at the parts online, those rocker/bridge overs look a LOT like the ones on my old 77 olds rocket. In fact, doing some cross checking on part numbers, the pushrods and bride overs are the same part numbers for the olds but the rockers are all AMC.
That's really interesting.

So are these AMC's like the olds where you just bolt those rockers down and roll with it or is anything special required?

Mike
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  #51  
Old 12-08-2012, 10:31 AM
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EEEW!


Found it.
Intake on #4.
Two things cause this, valve striking a piston.
Or the more likely cause a stuck or seized valve.
I gave the valve a tap with my hammer and it moves but not easily and has a different sound and feel from the one next to it.
So here's what I'm gonna do, put a new pushrod in it and see what happens and save up for a valve job.

Mike
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Last edited by Mars : 12-18-2012 at 05:24 PM.
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  #52  
Old 12-08-2012, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
save up for a valve job.
I'd recommend instead of saving up for a valve job, to save up for a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrodoh
...but if it works, I wouldn't touch it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindel
Best laid plans, yada yada yada...
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  #53  
Old 12-08-2012, 07:05 PM
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Yeah? I've never not used original heads. What's the upside?
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  #54  
Old 12-09-2012, 03:24 AM
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Nice work there Mike.

It's a shame these thing fight us so bad at times. If you have a machine shop do the work there is a good one in Burlington KY . Monarch machining. That is where my 401 is heading real soon.

I've been so swamped at work I've not had any time to play Jeep.. Not even cyber Jeeping on here. Hopefully that will change in a week or so when the massive overtime push is over.
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  #55  
Old 12-09-2012, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HOOT
Nice work there Mike.

It's a shame these thing fight us so bad at times. If you have a machine shop do the work there is a good one in Burlington KY . Monarch machining. That is where my 401 is heading real soon.

I've been so swamped at work I've not had any time to play Jeep.. Not even cyber Jeeping on here. Hopefully that will change in a week or so when the massive overtime push is over.

Good to see you hoot!
I don't know about anyone else but I've been worried about ya.
Hope you can crawl out from under your rock more often.
Looks like I may need that 360 from you after all, the heads at least..

Mike
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  #56  
Old 12-10-2012, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
Yeah? I've never not used original heads. What's the upside?
Mike,

I've read several places how much better the Edelbrock AL heads flow outta the box compared to stock.
Next I read where you can port the OE iron heads to match the flow of the Edelbrock AL heads.
Last I read where the deck is thicker and there is more meat to port the Edelbrock AL heads if a person wanted even more.
Guess what....I can not find one single reference to post here.
So, I got egg on my face.

I am basing my information from the forum here, the forum at Bulltear.com
(those guys get super technical, super fast over there...a bunch AMC engine brainiacs)
and the forum at www.TheAMCForum.com
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Quote:
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...but if it works, I wouldn't touch it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindel
Best laid plans, yada yada yada...
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  #57  
Old 12-11-2012, 09:13 AM
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That's good info and I might consider a set if I can find a nice used set at a swap meet or something. But for 1600 and some change might be a real obstacle and a slippery slope. By that I mean, high flow heads won't do much with a stock intake, and that will require a carb. Or heck shoot for the moon and get one of those bolt on EFI systems, then stock manifolds won't do either. So new ceramic headers and a whole new exhaust system. Not to mention a new cam, chain timing cover and oil pump.. and I havent even looked at the crank to see if it can handle the extra hp and rpm's and I doubt the stock pistons and rings are up to the task.. and for all that money why not drop the chevy LT1 with the 4L60 and the np229 from the 95 tahoe I have laying at the shop?

When all I really want to do is make it move and stop with some degree of reliability. Go fast parts arent in the cards yet.
Thanks for the info though I just don't know if I could use it.

Mike
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  #58  
Old 12-11-2012, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mars
That's good info and I might consider a set if I can find a nice used set at a swap meet or something. But for 1600 and some change might be a real obstacle and a slippery slope. By that I mean, high flow heads won't do much with a stock intake, and that will require a carb. Or heck shoot for the moon and get one of those bolt on EFI systems, then stock manifolds won't do either. So new ceramic headers and a whole new exhaust system. Not to mention a new cam, chain timing cover and oil pump.. and I havent even looked at the crank to see if it can handle the extra hp and rpm's and I doubt the stock pistons and rings are up to the task.. and for all that money why not drop the chevy LT1 with the 4L60 and the np229 from the 95 tahoe I have laying at the shop?

When all I really want to do is make it move and stop with some degree of reliability. Go fast parts arent in the cards yet.
Thanks for the info though I just don't know if I could use it.

Mike

AH....I understand better now.
I thought this engine had a better carb/intake already on it.
I agree with your thoughts, spending big money on a engine that might need more work than a valve job is not wise.

If you do a valve job, you need to be prepared for "while you got it torn down this far you might as well do..."
This is where I am on my J10 project.
It needs time and $$$
When I had the $$$, I worked all the time.
When I have the time, no $$$.
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1981 J20: Commercial flat bed. Long term Project: RUST! No Cab Brow!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrodoh
...but if it works, I wouldn't touch it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindel
Best laid plans, yada yada yada...

Last edited by The PIG Smith : 12-14-2012 at 12:42 PM.
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  #59  
Old 12-11-2012, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The PIG Smith
When I had the $$$, I worked all the time.
When I have the time, no $$$.

Know the feeling! Been laid off for almost a year now.
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  #60  
Old 12-12-2012, 12:58 PM
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Interesting development.
Installed the new pushrod, and discovered that the bridgeover was twisted, ordered a new one and installed all the new parts. Cranked the engine over with the coil unplugged and then checked to see if the pushrod was bent, all good.

Hooked up the coil and it fired right up!
Ran pretty good but had a definite miss.
Looking at the rockers all were moving but 1.
Exhaust on #4 reaching down and putting pressure on the top of the rocker I could feel the lifter riding on the cam but not lifting enough to open the valve. Giving it a little gas made the rocker *just* move the valve but at idle nothing. intake side of that cylinder was moving normally.

Good news and bad news, seems the heads and valves are fine, but I either have a collapsed lifter or a cam lobe wiping.

Up next the intake comes off! While I'm at it I'll do some float adjustments( since it's running a little rich ) and get a look at those lifters and the cam.
This better be worth it..

And I just wanna point out, for running on 7 it ran pretty darn good!

Mike
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Last edited by Mars : 12-18-2012 at 05:25 PM.
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