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01-30-2012, 08:00 AM
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Gear Head
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Join Date: Apr 07, 2002
Location: Derby, NY
Posts: 576
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Performance suspension for the street
I was thinking about this this weekend. I am a truck guy...have not had a car in over 20 years. I know very little about what makes a good performing street suspension system on a truck. I'm mostly interested in what kind of ideas everyone has and just some discussion on what you would do to make a good performing 4wd FSJ daily driver.
My current FSJ is a street only daily driver which sees occasional light towing duty during boating season. It is 100% stock as far as suspension and tires go. It came with a LT1/700r4/NP241 from a PO. It is still in pretty good shape after about another year or so of DDing I plan to do a little resto on it. Probably move to a LS engine and get going on the body/paint work. Its still going to be a DD so stock height with stock size wheels and tires. It sees plenty of snow so IFS 2wd conversions would be out (but feel free to discuss).
So throw out whatever you have...mild to wild.
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1989 Grand Wagoneer
1979 CJ-7
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01-30-2012, 11:41 AM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Dec 09, 2003
Location: Quakertown, PA
Posts: 2,236
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Going all out, I would link it front and rear, sway bars front and rear, swap in a AWD transfer case, and fit the widest tires that would fit under the body. Lower it a couple inches too while I was at it. I gave some thought to going this was with my Cherokee. The extra width would have to help the road holding ability of the truck.
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Pete
'55 Willys Wagon, the original FSJ
Sitting on a '77 Cherokee frame, Dodge D60's
Isuzu 6BD1, NV4500, NP241
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02-02-2012, 03:21 PM
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 821
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I'd look at grafting on the entire suspension, drive train and electronics from a wrecked 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee or Dodge Durango. State of the art and decent towing capacity. Nice street manners. Forget farm implement era transfer cases, axles and transmissions.
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, fifth wheel and bumper hitches.
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02-06-2012, 08:01 AM
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Gear Head
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Join Date: Apr 07, 2002
Location: Derby, NY
Posts: 576
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Towtruck
I'd look at grafting on the entire suspension, drive train and electronics from a wrecked 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee or Dodge Durango. State of the art and decent towing capacity. Nice street manners. Forget farm implement era transfer cases, axles and transmissions.
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That would probably be awesome. I have never looked at any of the new grand cherokees are they are unibodies like the older generations?
What about parallel 4-links and coil springs like the ZJ/WJ's? I think I need to keep my solid axles.
BTW towtruck I really like your Jtruck. Some day when I don't need room for the kids I want to build one of those.
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1989 Grand Wagoneer
1979 CJ-7
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02-09-2012, 10:01 AM
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Master Mechanic
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 821
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That's what JeepinPete recommended. It would sure be better behaved than the leaf springs, but unsprung weight is still huge. The new Cherokees are unibody....suspension virtually the same as the ML Mercedes. Depends what you want to spend, as always.
By the way, my pickup sticks extremely well with big wide tires...until the back end hits even a small bump....when it jumps sideways about a foot. And of course it rides like a 50's-60's vintage truck....which it is.
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___________________________
J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, fifth wheel and bumper hitches.
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