VibRation dampener test?

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  • ShagWagon
    350 Buick
    • Apr 10, 2016
    • 871

    VibRation dampener test?

    I installed a new one 8k ago or so because the rubber was sticking out when I went through a motor rebuild.

    I suspect the new one has gone bad because I get vibration at around 1500rpm when in park and in drive at about 25-30mph when I feather the gas pedal.

    I watch it when it spins and it seems wobbly but that might be my mind tricking me.

    Any tests can do or be done to determine if it's good or not? It's somewhat new so I can't believe it would be bad out of the box.
    87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs
  • babywag
    out of order
    • Jun 08, 2005
    • 10286

    #2
    Originally posted by ShagWagon
    Any tests can do or be done to determine if it's good or not? It's somewhat new so I can't believe it would be bad out of the box.
    HA! Wanna bet it could be bad now/or was bad right outta the box?
    Aftermarket parts are just crap these days.
    Pretty sure I've returned more junk new parts than I've gotten good "new" parts.

    Anyway you can see about runout, bolt a thick piece of copper/steel wire and bend it so it's just touching the backside.
    Fire it up and watch, if it's got any runout/wobbles you'll get a good visual on how bad.

    Not sure WTH they use for rubber 'bits these days, but I've seen so much rot on fairly new rubber parts it's not even funny.
    Every bushing I replaced when I rebuilt the front suspension on my Caprice is already cracking/dryrotted.
    The new leaf spring bushing on my wag are already doing the same.
    Wish I had just gone poly!

    EDIT: I'll add if I was rebuilding an engine I'd probably go aftermarket balancer. Yeah it's some $$$ but a rebuild is already a big investment.
    I'd rather not risk any issues w/ some Cheapnese balancer.
    Tony
    88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

    Comment

    • rang-a-stang
      Administrator
      • Oct 31, 2016
      • 5507

      #3
      I looked into a rebuilt balancer when I was spec'ing my build. This guy has reasonable costs and seems to have a really good reputation. He's up in Redding so not to far from you. I would much rather have a rebuilt original than a new cheapie.
      Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
      (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
      (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
      79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
      (Cherokee Build Thread)
      11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
      09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
      00 Baby Cherokee

      Comment

      • ShagWagon
        350 Buick
        • Apr 10, 2016
        • 871

        #4
        I can't even recall where I bought it. Napa, o Ridleys, or some other part store.

        I have the one on my parts Jeep. I could swap I suppose if that's a good idea? Cheap is good.

        I just want to make sure that's the problem first.
        87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs

        Comment

        • babywag
          out of order
          • Jun 08, 2005
          • 10286

          #5
          Did you have the rotating assembly balanced when engine was rebuilt?

          A misfire can also cause vibration or bad motor mount.
          Could be other things as well.
          Tony
          88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

          Comment

          • ShagWagon
            350 Buick
            • Apr 10, 2016
            • 871

            #6
            Originally posted by babywag
            Did you have the rotating assembly balanced when engine was rebuilt?

            A misfire can also cause vibration or bad motor mount.
            Could be other things as well.
            I don't know if they do that on a typical engine remanufacturer not. S&J should know what they're doing?

            Switched mounts to the red poly ones. Seems good and tight. I checked at rolling in neutral and no vibrations to rule out any drivetrain issues. It's smooths out at 35mph and over 70.

            Should be too much a job to swap out and see if it goes away I suppose. It's also possible I didn't tighten the balancer down all the way but it looks to be snug. Maybe I could tap it and wrench it to see if it tightens some more.
            87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs

            Comment

            • babywag
              out of order
              • Jun 08, 2005
              • 10286

              #7
              Any GOOD engine rebuild will have the rotating assembly balanced.
              Should have gotten a sheet with numbers on it w/ engine??
              Maybe call and ask them I guess? Good shops keep records.

              Very easy to swap on your old balancer.
              AZ and other parts stores rent puller & install tool sets.
              DO NOT use a hammer, yes it works, but I cringe when I see folks beating them back on that way.
              Tony
              88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

              Comment

              • rang-a-stang
                Administrator
                • Oct 31, 2016
                • 5507

                #8
                Two of the 5 shops I called when planning my build said "Well, if it has a balancer and you are building a stock short block, you don't really need to balance it...", I strongly disagree with that statement but am bringing it up to say the perspective is out there.

                DO NOT remove the balancer w/o the tool! The tool makes it totally easy and there is no risk of damage. Plus it's free to borrow. I would also recommend replacing the seal (I have a new spare one if you want it). Before you put the spare damper on, look for a ring worn onto the shaft from the seal. Mine had one like the one in this post. Check out from post 48 and down on here:
                http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=179354 Harry brought a pile of 401 parts to me with the task of making a running engine out of it. The block appears to have been Honed but has sat around and rusted up. (http://s625.photobucket.com/user/SC397/media/h4012_zpsrrhbdgq6.png.html) (http://s625.photobucket

                I paid less than $8 for the repair sleeve.
                Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
                79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                (Cherokee Build Thread)
                11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                00 Baby Cherokee

                Comment

                • babywag
                  out of order
                  • Jun 08, 2005
                  • 10286

                  #9
                  My opinion only!
                  it is no longer "stock" when rebuilding.
                  Rods get redone, different pistons, different rings, crank gets redone.
                  Different parts = different weights = not a brand new parts off shelf build.
                  Balance is likely no longer "stock".
                  Will it be ok, probably but why risk it when shelling out a few grand.
                  Whole point is to have a good engine that lasts a long time.
                  If the balance is off that isn't going to happen.
                  It will eventually take its toll.

                  just my .02
                  Tony
                  88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

                  Comment

                  • rang-a-stang
                    Administrator
                    • Oct 31, 2016
                    • 5507

                    #10
                    I'm with you 100%! I assume when the factories built these motors decades ago, they probably didn't balance EACH motor. They probably balanced one motor every so often and applied the same measurements to the next 100 or so. OR they "balanced" it with huge specs so it was "good enough". I think that's one of the reasons engines were only good for 100k back in the 70's and 80's.

                    BUT there are plenty of shops that will say factory is good enough. "Ahve beelt hunnerds a motors without balancin'. Dats fer dem high per four mans enjuns." I say "No, its for anyone that wants their bearings to last more than 100k miles under normal use."
                    Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                    (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                    (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
                    79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                    (Cherokee Build Thread)
                    11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                    09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                    00 Baby Cherokee

                    Comment

                    • ShagWagon
                      350 Buick
                      • Apr 10, 2016
                      • 871

                      #11
                      I'm not talking a beat down on with a hammer. Just a little tap tap whilst cranking down for some vibration. Maybe I never got on tight the first time last spring. Maybe I can get 1/4 of a turn on to see if that does it. If nada then I'll switch out my parts Jeep oem one see what that does and have other one rebuilt or something.

                      It's small vibration at certain rpm buggin me just says something isn't perfect. And I don't want further problems later so iwant to take care of it now. I'll swap out my parts one and see if that clears it up hopefully my next move. If I still have problems after that I'll have a real mechanic look at it.

                      Yeah I'll have to buy a new puller I think I broke/bent all my bolts on my puller over the years and about time for a new one.

                      They have an install tool?
                      87 GW- Fitech EFI,Fitech FCC,Skyjacker Hydro 4" lift,BFG AT KO2 30",Dynamax muffler,MSD distributor,MSD 6al box,Blaster2 coil,ACCEL 8mm,.045 gap,Edlebrock perf 4bbl intake,Elgin perf cam,HD alum radiator,Powermaster 150alt,Alum HD H2O pump,Serhills tailgate harness,Cowl screen mod,Evil Twin grab handles,Rstep's custom AMC lock knobs

                      Comment

                      • babywag
                        out of order
                        • Jun 08, 2005
                        • 10286

                        #12
                        Yes AZ does have both puller & installer kits for balancers.
                        you pay for it and when done return it full refund.
                        that's how their loaner tool program works.
                        other parts stores do same, nice for tools that you only need once or rarely.
                        Tony
                        88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

                        Comment

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