Need Help with parts list

[Danbert]

I have been over and over the forums and for the life of me, I am having a hard time coming up with a parts list.
I am hoping to be on a road trip with in the next couple of months and I am taking the Wag.
I know there are some things that need fixed before I drive it over 1600 miles.
First off I have a clunk on turning that I have verified as being a lower ball joint. My thinking is that the work I have to do to replace those, I might as well service the front end.
So my plan is to do the following work and try to get as much of it done before I go. (I have a mechanic friend that is willing to help me and a few others from this board I am sure I can bribe to lend a hand)
Work to do (with notes):
1. Replace wheel bearings and parts in the hub (bearings seals nuts whatever)
2. Replace U-joints at wheels (might as well while I am in there)
3. Replace steering components (having wear on front driver side)
4. Replace all ball joints (Just make sense to me)

I have also received some suspension parts I want to put in to fight the sag a bit longer until I can afford a lift.
5. Add a leafs to the front springs (or swap in the spring packs I was given that have the add a leafs in them)(needs bushings)
6. Lift blocks in rear (need U-bolts)

At this point, especially if I have the help, I think it would be a good idea to to do the following work:
7. Replace all U-joints in the drive train
8. Open, inspect and refill both differentials
9. Replace fluids in steering,TC and brake lines
10. Replace Filter in trans and new fluids
11. Replace or repack bearings in rear axle

Biggest help I need. I need to form a parts list for these items (I am having trouble deciphering which U-joints and how many and what parts to replace in the hubs).
Also, anything else I should look at doing?

Thanks in advance
Danbert

[HOOT]

There are a couple of small differences between some years. I don't think you will find a definite kit for your waggy. Some parts book list different parts for the same piece, for example inner seals for the front axle.
I did a 82 waggy just like you are wanting to do to yours. Best I can tell you is find a good counter guy and a decent parts store to deal with. On the confusing info I would get both parts listed and return the one not used. I was also a 105 mile round trip for the parts store so just running out and getting the other was a few hour affair.
A good counter guy can steer you in the right direction for all your needs. I also used a small press shop in the rear of the parts store for all my U joint replacements. I took the axle shafts and drive shafts to him one day while going after some parts and dropped them off. Went back 2 days later for some more parts and picked up the shafts all cleaned and painted with new bearings in them. This shop was close to where I work so swinging by before work and dropping off or buying more was not a problem.
It was actually fun and informative just spending a couple of weeks under the wag replacing everything and getting to know it. i wished I had never sold it when i got it done but sometimes life's reasons hit hard and fast.
If you don't need to be driving it jack it up and set it on concrete and wood blocks front and rear. I used 3 blocks with a 2x10 on all four corners. No worries about knocking it off the stands while tugging on something. Mine had a receiver hitch on it and I set the rear blocks on either side of it and the fronts were right behind the wheels.

Don't forget the spindle bearings and dust seals for the front wheels.
I also used synthetic oils in everything. Higher boiling point for the brakes and lower freezing points for the other things like steering, and diff's.
You'll learn alot about your rig and know what to expect from it.
Have fun..soon you will be with hopefully no

[Danbert]

Thank you for the advice. Actually I can carpool with the father in law for work and we have a second vehicle so putting it up on blocks isn't a bad idea. I just don't want to tear into it until I can afford the parts to put it back together. Mainly because my wife's van has 250K on the odometer and has a yet to be diagnosed whine in the engine somewhere that seems to baffle everyone that looks at it. I cant afford to have a shop tear into her engine just to find out what the noise is. (basically waiting to see what goes catastrophic).
As for the parts store I am pretty close to the normal ones (autozone, o'reilly, and Napa) I also am OK with ordering parts from places like BJs or Rock auto. The biggest hurdle is figuring out the parts and prices so I can tell the accountant (wife) how much I need to perform the jobs.
I have a small shop press at my disposal.
I am just having trouble with what parts where and how many of each.

[HOOT]

I would go to one of the stores and have them look up what you want and give you a quote or whatever they call it. I know Autozone will do that or at least my local one will. I go in there after work at 3 am and have the guy look up my stuff and look at the pictures on the screen to see what I want to replace. They can print them pages out for you and it will also have a current price as well. If I'm not mistaken they can even give you a PO Number so to speak and all you need to do is give them that number and it will pull your info right back up for ordering when you are ready.
The whole key to the above is to find someone willing to look up your stuff, preferably old school type guy, or someone willing to do their job correctly. Also do your inquiring during off peak hours when they aren't trying to serve 2 dozen customers with more lining up. My local guy is a Jeep fan from way back and seems to enjoy looking all my stuff up.

BJ's does sell some kits so you may want to check them out for the wheel bearings and whatever else they have. When I did my axles I bought the wheel bearing kits as well as a new set of axles.

[Danbert]

Excellent advice Hoot. As usual this place is very helpful.
Anything else you can think of that I might want to repair, replace or inspect before attempting such a trip?

[Danbert]

I stopped by the local AZ and the guy there helped me by printing out a list of the part numbers I would need. I don't know how accurate it is. He is more of the Honda CRV (street runner version) kind of guy. But seems to be real helpful.
Thanks for the suggestion Hoot.

[azpackrat]

I use the AutoZone web site a lot, it's pretty helpful and no time constrants like impatient customers standing behind you. Don't forget rear axle bearings and shocks, and perhaps flushing your cooling system.

[HOOT]

Glad to be of some help once in a while....

Get some floor dry or something to soak up the messy stuff.

Get a box of paper hand towels as well as some old rags or shop towels. You will definitely need some. Hand cleaner is also a must.

Have some way to catch all the fluids you will be draining out. Take them back to Autozone for recycling. I have a large catch pan and a small one. I also have 2, 5 gallon oil cans to store and transport the oil in.

I always sweep out the garage real good before pulling in to do under carriage work. This helps to keep all the dust bunnies and other floor droppings from sticking all over your oily/greasey body. Get used to the taste of petroleum products, you'll have it for a while.

Get a good light to light up the underneath.

Clear off the work bench BEFORE you start. Have some sandwhich baggies around for bolts and small parts. Don't forget a good marker to write on the bags. You WILL forget what something is.

Have a small pan and brush to wash parts in with parts cleaner. Paint thinner or lacquer reducer works well, keep well ventilated and away from flames.

Also have some spray paint on hand. I used the time under to clean frame parts and re spray stuff. I use Eastwoods chassis black and Rust primer. I also under coated alot of the bottom stuff with that 3M stuff.

If your floor jack handle is removable it makes a great "front Dana 44 inner seal knocker outer/ Q-Tip". While you have the front wheel bearings out ,remove the dif covers and then remove the inner seals near the differential, by pushing the jack handle through the spindle side in towards the dif and knock out the seals. Then get a scotch brite type pad and push it through the axle housing with paint thinner and swab the inner housing clean. Pushing towels through afterwards will dry it out and remove the crap inside.
I also did the same to the rear.

With a squeeze bottle or something suck all the brake fluid you can out of the master cylinder. I also wipe out the inner tank if it has dirt on the walls. Refill it with new fluid. Then when you get the new brakes on OR if you skip replacing brakes, crack the lines off at the calipers and let it drip until it drips out good clean fluid. I replaced everything from the end of the hard line out all around. I also used synthethic fluid. Buy the large 32oz. bottle of it.

You can pull the line off the radiator to drain the tranny while it is idling. Get a 5 gallon bucket to catch it all. Do this before removing the pan and filter it will be a bit less messy. When you crack the seal on the tranny pan unloosen the bolts so that you can break the seal and have a corner of the pan hang down a bit while a couple screws(holding in by a few threads) left on the opposite side will keep pan from falling on the floor and rest of fluid puddling everywhere around your body. Did I mention the taste??? You'll need about 15 qts. or so IIRC.