Thanks man, looking forward to getting it out on the road. Should be good to go for the M&G in May. Probably still not painted then, but oh well...
V8 cam, intake and carb swap +Random pics of 8600/1406/3731 going in...almost there!
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Derek
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1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360
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1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L
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"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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Originally posted by Rob zSo, what did ya do with the CTO?Derek
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1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360
----------------
1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L
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"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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Kickdown Issues
Originally posted by Ristow
the kickdown generally has about 1/4 throttle worth of slack. adjust it to be pulled fully forward at full throttle and you're done.
Any insight would be appreciated. I have looked at the Tom Collins write up in the tech articles and read a ton of posts, but I'm still a bit stuck here. Thanks again as always!Derek
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1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360
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1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L
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"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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Kickdown solution and latest question...
Here is what I came up with to extend the kickdown out far enough.
This is the original kickdown, my first attempt at making a new one, and the one that I ended up going with.
I went and picked up an acetylene rod and shaped it to replace the original. I put about 100 miles on the Jeep Saturday and she ran pretty good. I think I might need to adjust it a little more to get it just right, but that shouldn't be a problem.
Soooo...here's the question for the day. While the Jeep ran fairly well, especially since everything is tuned as it was out of the box, it did seem much more sluggish upon acceleration from standstill than I would have expected. I am thinking that since it runs so well at speed that it's not a timing issue, it seems like that would create a problem throughout the full range of throttle. I'm guessing that it's a vacuum issue, so I still need to go through that some more, deleting as much as possible along the way. Any insight on this issue (low power on take off)?
Oh yeah, here's how I fixed the hood latch mechanism I broke when disassembling. Not too techy, but oh well. And by the way, what a PAIN to put the hood back on by yourself...wow!!
Derek
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1973 Wagoneer 360
1978 Cherokee 360
1981 J10 360
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1964 El Camino 357
1972 C10 454 LS6
1979 Corvette L82
1979 Scout II 345
1988 YJ 4.2L
1991 YJ 4.3L
1990 Suburban V2500 350
1998 Mark VIII 4.6L
2001 Yukon 5.3L
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"If it's not broken, fix it 'till it is."
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I ditched all my hood latch stuff a while ago. Hood pins are so much easier.
Sluggish off the line huhh... I thought going with straight manifold vacuum was supposed to make it smoother. It could just be the idle mixture screws needing a little adjustment. What's your plugs look like ?It's not the leaks that bother me, it's when they stop that makes me worried.
1988 Waggy SOA stretched, cut, Chevy R. 4" springs in front, shackle reversed, stock springs reversed in back, Edelbrock manifold and carb, mini-spooled front, lunchbox rear, currently on spaced 35s.
www.FairbanksOffroadLions.com
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