V8 cam, intake and carb swap +Random pics of 8600/1406/3731 going in...almost there!

[Chevelleguy]

That JB Weld patch on the exhaust manifold won't work, it's going to burn off. You need to have someone weld the hole up. I used a MIG welder, some have just brazed them shut.

[FSK1460]

Assuming you're wanting to keep your charcoal canister in place and working, you'll need to go ahead and keep the tee connector from the pcv (factory setup) in place. The vacuum from the pvc connection is how the fuel vapors get sucked out of the charcoal canister and back into the engine.

Its just a way to keep the fumes contained. I park my Jeep in the garage, so I don't want the smell of gas to be present.

As far as removing the vapor separater, its only there to prevent any liquid fuel from entering into the charcoal canister and only allow vapors to enter. Any fuel that could enter, would most likely come from the bowl vent, but without a bowl vent present its probably not necessary. But again I left it in place just play it safe.

The charcoal canister doesn't rob you of any performance, it just trapps the fuel vapors and allows them to be sucked back into the engine, rather than into the air. A lot of folks remove it all to keep the engine bay less cluttered, but I believe it'll run the same either way.

[shiner2001]

That JB Weld patch on the exhaust manifold won't work, it's going to burn off. You need to have someone weld the hole up. I used a MIG welder, some have just brazed them shut.

It was kind of a shot in the dark and the only option I had without removing the manifold, so I figured I'd give it a try. It actually is JB Weld, but "QuikSteel," which is probably the same stuff. It was the highest temp rated stuff I could find, figured it wouldn't hurt. I plan on running headers in the near future, so hopefully by the time this craps out I can have the headers ready to go in.

[shiner2001]

Definitely not at TDC anymore...but still no starty...

I went to the garage earlier just to put all the new vacuum fittings and things that I just bought out there, with no intention of working on the Jeep right now, and after an hour or so she was ready to crank. So I did. And Again, and again, and again, and she's not firing. A shot of carb cleaner and she'd tell me that she had fire, but no fuel. So I started at the carb and pulled the fuel line, dry as a bone. Worked back to the filter, again dry (on both sides). So I pulled the hard line off the top of the fuel pump and gave it a crank and nothing there either. So, to me it looks like a fuel pump problem (brand new one). I know that the odds of the pump being bad out of the box are probably lower than anything else, so I'm trying to figure out what the problem might be. Am I missing a "first time start up with a new mechanical fuel pump" procedure or something? Also, for what it's worth, the flare nut on the pump end of the hard line (the hard line that runs from the pump to the filter) is kind of rounded off and is a pain to loosen/tighten in those close quarters, so I am going to put some kind of nipple fitting on top of the fuel pump and just run soft line from the pump to the filter...any problems with that?

[j20brett]

If its a new pump, it takes a bit of cranking to prime it up. Might try an electic pusher pump from close to the tank to get fuel there faster, and its also a good backup.

[shiner2001]

If its a new pump, it takes a bit of cranking to prime it up. Might try an electic pusher pump from close to the tank to get fuel there faster, and its also a good backup.

It's definitely a new pump. I cranked it for quite awhile, maybe I'll just do that a little longer and see what happens. I thought about adding a pusher back at the tank, but was gonna try to get by without having to do that.

[GWChris]

I was just looking at the pictures from the beginning of the thread - Edelbrock is made by Weber / Mageti Marelli? Interesting.

[shiner2001]

I was just looking at the pictures from the beginning of the thread - Edelbrock is made by Weber / Mageti Marelli? Interesting.

No idea...

[smearig]

After I ditched the electric pump the mechanical pump started pushing enough fuel to run it after about 5 seconds of cranking. In a different car I have funneled some fuel from the pressure line back into the pump and that seemed to help with a pump that can't get primed.

[shiner2001]

After I ditched the electric pump the mechanical pump started pushing enough fuel to run it after about 5 seconds of cranking. In a different car I have funneled some fuel from the pressure line back into the pump and that seemed to help with a pump that can't get primed.

After as much as I've cranked on this one, I don't think it's possible that more cranking is the answer. I pulled the feed line off the pump and got a mouthfull of gas pretty quick, so there is fuel within a foot or so of the pump I'd say. I have the hard line disconnected from the top of the pump right now, hoping that I would see gas shoot up out of the pump as I was cranking it from the cab. I'm wondering if not having that backpressure on it affects anything, but I know that I could manually actuate the pump before it was installed and it would spurt out whatever liquid was in it. I'm going to run to try find a nipple for the top of the pump so I can run that soft line to the filter for easier access and service.

Also, I pulled the coil wire and I am definitely getting fire to the distributor. That and the fact that my fuel lines are dry make me sure it's a fuel problem, not spark.

Any other ideas?? I can't believe that it's a bad pump from the get go...(I know it's possible, but...)

[Chris P.]

I usually fill the carb bowl and start it with that. It will prime itself quickly once started (that is if the pump is good).

Try not to crank it too much before the new cam is broken in.

[shiner2001]

I usually fill the carb bowl and start it with that. It will prime itself quickly once started (that is if the pump is good).

Try not to crank it too much before the new cam is broken in.

So from the top of the carb...where and how much gas?

[Chris P.]

You can fill it with a squeeze bottle hooked the fuel inlet or fill it through the bowl vent.

When you can't squeeze any more gas in with the bottle, its full.

If you use the bowl vent, you'll know its full when gas begins to run down the venturis. Don't let it overflow too much or it will be flooded.

[shiner2001]

SHE'S ALLIIIVVEEEE!!!

well boys and girls, as of 7:25pm tonight, the AgWag is alive and running. I took off the new fuel pump and put the old one back on and still couldn't get it to crank. I pulled the line from the filter and succked gas through the pump and still got nothing. I took that practice one step farther and pulled the line from the carb and sucked gas all the way to that point in the line and then she finally fired right up. I suppose the starter just wasn't spinning the engine fast enough to get the pump cycling like it needed to be. I ran her for about 20 minutes at what I guessed to be around 2500 rpm and she didn't miss a beat. Good pressure and the temp was great. Chevelleguy, it took about 5 minutes for the QuikSteel to blow out of the AIR tube hole, so after it gets cooled off I'm gonna hit it with the MIG to take care of that one...good call. The wag's been sitting in the garage with me working on it on and off for about 7 months or so now, so it's kind of been "packed around"...meaning it's gonna take some maneuvering to get it out and actually take it for a drive, but I can't wait.

A big thanks to everyone for all your help along the way. I'm sure little things will creep up related to this part of the project, so I'll be back to this thread to get them ironed out. I suppose next up is a little interior work and paint...and suspension...and tires and wheels...never ends does it? I love it.

[Elliott]

Good deal, glad to hear it's running again!