rang-a-stang's summer project/build

[bluehwy]

Sweet nectar!

[rang-a-stang]

Nice. Glad to see you got it back Rang. A bit slow, but this will give you something to do over the holidays. Good luck buddy.

Yep! Been cranking away since coming home from Idaho on Wed.

I LOVE engines with "Some Assembly Required" . . .

Nice. Good luck .. I would NOT be able to wait til X-Mas.. lol

For sure! This assembly has been MUCH more enjoyable because I have done it before and have all the supplies I need... so far. Christmas came and went but I had so much fun at my son's house in Rexburg, it wasn't too bad waiting.

get busy rang,.....

dave in NC

Yessa! Been cranking! I promise.

Looking good and promising!

Make sure that the blank metal areas of your engine and crank don't rust in the meantime!

Cheers

Yep! they were all covered in cutting oil and were still a little oily and ready for assembly when I got home.

Sweet nectar!

Indeed! Muy sweet!!
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This isn't really a Jeep update; I am living on theamcforum these days.

https://theamcforum.com/forum/fresh-401-quest-for-oil-pressure_topic107817_page1.html

To summarize 7 pages of pictures and posts: Long block is pretty much done and ready to be primed.


I hope to prime it tomorrow, hang all my accessories, get it installed and fired up by Monday night. That may not be realistic but I am hopeful. I am reusing all the same lifters and cam so no break-in required and my EFI BIN should be pretty close. Fingers crossed!!!

[SJTD]

Can you save me searching and summarize what you did to improve the oil pressure?

I know it's commonly done but ow the ell due they make sure the paint sticks to a porous, formerly oily surface?

[rang-a-stang]

Can you save me searching and summarize what you did to improve the oil pressure?

I know it's commonly done but ow the ell due they make sure the paint sticks to a porous, formerly oily surface?

What??? You do not want to dig through 7 pages of my rambling and useless pictures?? Hahahahaha!

Really, in the grand scheme of things, I rebuilt the bottom end with tighter clearances. I never did find a real smoking gun on why my pressure was so low. I think it was a culmination of a few problems. I had debris go through my motor at some point, probably from me doing a poor job of cleaning my parts during the first rebuild which destroyed my main bearings on top of the slightly loose clearances. Hopefully that is all fixed this time.

The paint in the lifter valley, the shop I used uses it on all their motors. I did not ask them to paint it, did not pay for them to paint it, but it sure looks cool. It is a SEM paint, like glyptol. They hot tank the block, do all the machine work, tank it again, then paint, then cam bearings, freeze plugs, so on.

[bkilby]

The paint is to keep the block from rusting and to help the oil travel to the oil pan faster.



The engine looks good Rang, I hope it runs as nice as it's looking.

[cu4whln]

To summarize 7 pages of pictures and posts: Long block is pretty much done and ready to be primed.


I hope to prime it tomorrow

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Looks great!

I just read your entire engine thread. Good details - Very nice.

Excited to see this come together!

[SJTD]

I know the why and I know it's been done forever. Just scares me. Always has.

I guess if they're doing the real hot tanking in good ole caustic cleaner it'll get the oil outta the pores.

Tomorrow still the big day?

[SOLSAKS]

RANG
glad your engine is back

it will run good this time,...

dave in NC

[rang-a-stang]

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Looks great!

I just read your entire engine thread. Good details - Very nice.

Excited to see this come together!

Thanks! I know I ramble and post a lot/bordering on too many pictures but I cannot tell you how many times I have gone back to my threads to see how I did something, or see a picture of something long buried into my rig.

I know the why and I know it's been done forever. Just scares me. Always has.

I guess if they're doing the real hot tanking in good ole caustic cleaner it'll get the oil outta the pores.

Tomorrow still the big day?

When I did the first rebuild, I read quite a bit about painting the lifter valley/crankcase and there are a lot of opinions out there. Most articles written by big name builders seemed indifferent to it when I was reading so I passed on it. I don't remember finding any articles or first hand experiences of anyone that had bad experiences with it (like engine damage from peeling paint flakes). Most of what I read is either it's a useless waste of time/money or it helps a little bit.

All that to say, It was really nice working in that clean valley. When I primed, the oil did move on the paint like water on a well waxed hood. That would probably matter if I was racing this, but I don't. If I do ever build another engine, I probably will paint the lifter valley again more for looks.

Big day=more below.

RANG
glad your engine is back

it will run good this time,...

dave in NC

Thank you sir! Hopefully we will know for sure tomorrow morning!!!
*****************************************
Snuck away last night and finished dressing my motor. It's off the engine stand and ready to go in today.

Fingers crossed I can back it out of the garage tonight!

[78 WIDETRAC]

Thanks! I know I ramble and post a lot/bordering on too many pictures but I cannot tell you how many times I have gone back to my threads to see how I did something, or see a picture of something long buried into my rig.

When I did the first rebuild, I read quite a bit about painting the lifter valley/crankcase and there are a lot of opinions out there. Most articles written by big name builders seemed indifferent to it when I was reading so I passed on it. I don't remember finding any articles or first hand experiences of anyone that had bad experiences with it (like engine damage from peeling paint flakes). Most of what I read is either it's a useless waste of time/money or it helps a little bit.

All that to say, It was really nice working in that clean valley. When I primed, the oil did move on the paint like water on a well waxed hood. That would probably matter if I was racing this, but I don't. If I do ever build another engine, I probably will paint the lifter valley again more for looks.

Big day=more below.

Thank you sir! Hopefully we will know for sure tomorrow morning!!!
*****************************************
Snuck away last night and finished dressing my motor. It's off the engine stand and ready to go in today.

Fingers crossed I can back it out of the garage tonight!

Dang Marc! Quick progress. You make it look easy. I hope you are able to fire it up tonight too.

[rang-a-stang]

Dang Marc! Quick progress. You make it look easy. I hope you are able to fire it up tonight too.

That's 'cause I miss details! Last night was terrible! Too much to post here. Engine is mostly in but I have to drop the oil pan again. Because I missed a detail when torqueing my rod caps.

Details here

[SJTD]

What's ARP say about torquing them? They seem to have instructions on their site but I didn't know what size you're working with. I'd go by that.

Back in my first real job I was a ME for Rocketdyne on the shuttle engines. Some of those bolts had a nice socket in their heads for an ultrasonic probe. The other end was ground smooth. Used sound to measure installed length.

Others had a crush washer with holes in the edge. Torqued until you couldn't turn the washer. No torque measurement on how hard to turn the washer, though. Never understood that detail.

I wonder why thy cost 40 million each.

Some did just use a torque wrench. Always calibrated.

Oh, and always lubed.

[rang-a-stang]

The ARP instructions say 40 for everything... except 390 and 401. The 390/401 instructions say 50. It's a good gotcha that sucks to fix but needs to be fixed. Just not sure when. Have teenager drama to deal with now too.

[SJTD]

Nuttin about the torque cycling huh?. Can't hurt but I don't see the point. If the the torque is below the yield it won't matter. If it's above it's too tight. Fatigue is a non-issue with two or three cycles. Or many, many more.

VW loves to use these bolts dubbed "torque to yield" by people. You torque to a specified value then add a quarter turn. Replace if untorqued. Never bothered to compute if they are actually yielded and not sure what the point would be.

Good luck with the engine and the other issues.

[DarkMonohue]

Nuttin about the torque cycling huh?. Can't hurt but I don't see the point.

It could also have to do with making sure the fasteners are seated properly. Just a thought.