6.2 & 6.5 Diesel Guys

[grand350]

Do any of you 6.2 or 6.5 guys have a wiring diagram of the wiring you used for the jeep and motor?? Thanks

[budojeepr]

Diesel engine wiring

I think I could sketch one out if you want, but wiring the engine was fairly easy, not counting glow plug controller and lockup torque converter controller.

• There's a switched 12V that goes to the injector pump solenoid (the connection right by the fuel return line out of the pump).
• There's a switched 12V that goes first through the coolant temperature switch on the rear of the passenger side head (down near the block), then to the cold-start solenoid AND the fast idle solenoid. When the engine warms up, the cold-start and fast idle solenoids are de-powered.
• Then you have the usual starter connections. I ran the starter solenoid wires through a relay so I could take advantage of the two batteries' power to start it.

I'm still not sure my glow plug controller has all the wiring it needs. Yes, the plugs come on and cycle, but they do even if the engine's fully warmed up. I used the stock controller, and provided power via a large cable to the battery.

I have to wait until I have my transmission rebuilt and I'm sure it shifts properly before I pass judgment on my lockup torque converter wiring. Sorry.

I bought a Haynes Diesel Repair Manual at the local speed shop, and it helped a lot.

[grand350]

Thanks!! I could use whatever you can give me!! I am on the wiring phase now. Thanks again

[budojeepr]

Glow plug wiring

Sorry this is so late. My scanner blew, and it took me until now to get a new one.

These are from the Haynes Techbook Diesel Engine Repair Manual (#10330). I highly recommend buying this book if you're working on GM diesels.

Glow plug wiring, 1984 - 19993 6.2/6.5L:


Glow plug wiring, 1994+ 6.5:


I haven't found a nice diagram of engine wiring. I might draw one up sometime...

[budojeepr]

Lockup wiring

Lockup torque converter wiring, from bowtie.com:

[DieselSJ]

I have neither the glow inhibit switch nor the cold start advance circuits hooked up. My cold start switch was bad (never would shut off) so I unhooked it and everything has been running fine without it so I forgot about it. As for the glow inhibit, I don't have that switch and it does not hurt to let the plugs glow when they are hot.

I also did one additional change - I wired in a Ford starter solenoid so that I only have one big wire going to the starter and nothing else. It takes a lot of strain off the ignition switch, which I think is important because our systems were designed around a remote solenoid.

[710 Burner]

To my knowledge, there is no difference electrically between using a remote solenoid and a starter mounted solenoid.

[grand350]

Thanks for all the help guys!!!!

[budojeepr]

I have neither the glow inhibit switch nor the cold start advance circuits hooked up. My cold start switch was bad (never would shut off) so I unhooked it and everything has been running fine without it so I forgot about it. As for the glow inhibit, I don't have that switch and it does not hurt to let the plugs glow when they are hot.

I think I kind of lucked out with that stuff - mine all works. I agree, it's ok to have the glow plugs work every time the ignition is turned on. My manual says glow plugs don't wear out if everything's ok. I like the cold start circuit; on those cold morning's it's good to have a faster idle, and the fast idle will come in handy once I get A/C hooked up.

I also did one additional change - I wired in a Ford starter solenoid so that I only have one big wire going to the starter and nothing else. It takes a lot of strain off the ignition switch, which I think is important because our systems were designed around a remote solenoid.

How's that work? I've wondered, but didn't have a starter to experiment with. Your one big wire goes to the main connection on the starter side of the solenoid? Does that energize both the motor and the pop-out gear at the same time?

I just wired in a big relay that lets me put a direct-to-battery wire to the stock GM solenoid.

[DieselSJ]

To my knowledge, there is no difference electrically between using a remote solenoid and a starter mounted solenoid.

Yes, there is.

It takes more than 10 amps to trigger the solenoid on a GM style starter, and it can draw a lot more if things are hot. A remote (Ford/Jeep) solenoid takes less than 3 amps. That current all passes through your ignition switch.

How's that work? I've wondered, but didn't have a starter to experiment with. Your one big wire goes to the main connection on the starter side of the solenoid? Does that energize both the motor and the pop-out gear at the same time?

I just wired in a big relay that lets me put a direct-to-battery wire to the stock GM solenoid.

You run one big heavy wire from the solenoid to the heavy terminal on the starter. Then you run a 10ga jumper from the heavy terminal on the starter to the smaller terminal on the starter. Sounds like you have it right.

[imiceman44]

To my knowledge, there is no difference electrically between using a remote solenoid and a starter mounted solenoid.

That's because your knowledge is lacking
As I am sure someone already mentionned the GM starter relay does take a lot of juice, which is why even GM guys (and I am one) put a remoe relay when they start having issues with the ignition going bad and not being able to start properly.
You want to put the least amount of stuff going thru your ignition, relays for everything is best.

[budojeepr]

As I am sure someone already mentionned the GM starter relay does take a lot of juice, which is why even GM guys (and I am one) put a remote relay when they start having issues with the ignition going bad and not being able to start properly.

I know we've hijacked the poor guy's diesel thread (sorry, grand350), but one more: I'm going to do the Ford solenoid thing for my J-truck's 454.

Is this a representative sample of the correct part?

'85 Ford F250 remote starter solenoid link

I always have trouble getting the starter to turn when it's warmed up. First the solenoid, then the starter heat shield.

[imiceman44]

I know we've hijacked the poor guy's diesel thread (sorry, grand350), but one more: I'm going to do the Ford solenoid thing for my J-truck's 454.

Is this a representative sample of the correct part?

'85 Ford F250 remote starter solenoid link

I always have trouble getting the starter to turn when it's warmed up. First the solenoid, then the starter heat shield.

I have never seen one of these before.
But it says it is, so I guess it is

[DieselSJ]

I know we've hijacked the poor guy's diesel thread (sorry, grand350), but one more: I'm going to do the Ford solenoid thing for my J-truck's 454.

Is this a representative sample of the correct part?

'85 Ford F250 remote starter solenoid link

I always have trouble getting the starter to turn when it's warmed up. First the solenoid, then the starter heat shield.

I have no idea what that is in your link. That is not a solenoid.

[710 Burner]

Perhaps I should have phrased that differently. I was not referring to the electrical properties, but the circuit itself.