I considered a radius arm, but I don't like the binding or the caster change. I am waiting to drop the engine back in to check for clearances for the trac bar.
Yet another Cherokee build
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Originally posted by csuengrI considered a radius arm, but I don't like the binding or the caster change. I am waiting to drop the engine back in to check for clearances for the trac bar.
EDIT : 35 + pages now "Heavy build" begins on page 13 "Finished" pics start on page 28 New : Magazine cover shot: page 40 Hi Everyone ! I have been "lurking" here for awhile.. reading up on all the great info you guys have written up.Amazing what you can learn by reading - But why ?? After
Al79 Cherokee Chief "Kronk" - TBI350/SM465/NP205
99 Dodge 2500 4x4 - Cummins 24v
07 Mazdaspeed3 GT - Big turbo, 340whp
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Nice build. He has way more money than I do. Besides, he used Rubicon axles that were already set up for a long arm system. I am using what I got. I like using imagination and skill more than my wallet.If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.
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I was thinking of doing the same with a premade Truss with XJ suspension points (made to put a waggy 44 in a XJ). And then some custom long arm XJ arms from Rustys. I dont trust my welding/fab skills enough to do my own suspension mounts/links, but this looked easy enough to tack into place and take down to a shop to have welded. Its made for a NT Wag 44, but Im sure you could make it work.
Only concern I had was Truss to engine clearance at full bump.Ben
1980 Wagoneer - Ram Jet 350, 700R4, NP208, 4" lift, 33x10.5 tires.
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So, now that I have the week off, it's back to work. doing the front suspension this week. I had to get the frame back off the ground and level, so I gave it legs.
Right side
Left side
Flexing, no trac bar yet. I have to put the engine in first for clearance issues.
Coil buckets tacked on.
Everything is just tacked in place for now. I have to make some small braces on the frame mounts for the lower arms.
I'm using four inch Early Bronco springs from Deaver since I couldn't find any Jeep springs with the right spring rate. Plus I already had the lower spring retainers.If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.
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Got the engine and tranny set into check clearances, again. Hopefully this is the next to last time I get to set the drive train in. I had to modify the transmission cross member to get the driveshaft to clear.
I will have to do something about the sway bar. I will probably move it an inch forward.
This thingy is another Exploder goody. Oil to water oil cooler.
Modified cross member
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.
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Can you explain the motor mounts --- frame side? Modified Jeep/Ford hybrid?Jeep is gone ~~ Ranger cab truck in the works
393W/C6/203-205, HP60, 14B, 12 bolt H1s, 40" Pitbull Rockers, full hydro, 4 link rear
Build = http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=973973
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The oil cooler is off a 5.0L Explorer. Some have them, some didn't as there are two oil filters listed for an 5.0 Explorer. The old tall one with English threads, and a short one with metric threads, the later being used with the oil cooler.
The engine mounts (on frame) are modified FSJ 6cyl pieces. I had to increase the angle to fit the Ford stuff. The Ford rubber mounts use a single bolt like the AMC 6cyls used. The mounts are in their original location on the frame as well. I did have to move the engine an inch to the passenger side to make clearance for the transfer case. That BW 1356 is huge.If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer.
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