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If it means I gotta join the board to get updates on this so be it.
How's life and the build going Jim?
Shane
Shane who ?? lol
So - getting ready for rust repair on the flairs.. and then body work. Then it will be onto paint... CHAA-CHING. ugh.
Waiting on a driver lower rear 1/4 patch panel from BJs.. they are on back order I guess. plan it to use the truck flairs as a donor for flair repair... [ I got them from Tonka on a bed he was cutting up anyway ].
Overall, plan to gut the body, take it off and leave it at the body shop .. then bring the chassis home for some freshening up. Probably will go through the 401 as it will be SO easy to do when the Jeep is apart anyway. And fuel injection.. DONE with carbs for now.
Of course, this will be a color change.... and a new interior of sorts.. NOT going 100% original on this.. just "nice".
I figure this will take a year as money is a bit tight these days !!
I totally understand time/funding slow downs. Mines still on the back burner till I can funnel time/funds her way. I do little things here and there when I can but till we get the crops in all I do is look at her and make a to do list.
Keep posting your tips and tricks. I still love the one where you used the chrome door moulding all the way to the back. I have mine installed and it looks great. One day at a time and she?ll be ready to hit the road.
Message sent to hopefully jog the memory since apparently I can't get out to wheel much lately.
Thanks for the update on the thread. I always like your and Al's threads so I figured I might as well join the board since I'm considering another Jeep build.
64K mile 401 / Turbo 400 / Q-Trac with part time kit for sale. You could literally buy this, and drop it in your Jeep and drive ( pass drop). You can come hear it run (before I remove it in about 4 weeks). I will get a video of it.
Complete running 401 Engine- $2500 NOW SOLD
Original 401, runs well. 4 bbl Holly, New alt, PS pump. All belt and hoses new. Clutch fan included as well. Upgraded ignition included. Currently has Doug Thorley Headers - stock logs with air tubes (NOT cracked) avail if you don't want the headers.
Turbo 400 - works perfectly, shift smoothly. $200 Free with engine purchase
Q-Trac with Milemarker part time kit. $250. Free with engine purchase
OIL LEAKS: FREE !
Local pickup folks... OR you send someone to get it for you. Detroit MI area.
Finally getting my life back on track and making time to get going on my build again... I picked this one up a few years ago to replace Madness (sold).
Introducing 'Da Chief : 1977 401 auto / Q-Trac. Goal: To build a reliable decent Jeep, not a show car.
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"The PLAN" : 3 Basic Steps
Step 1:
Swap in a
EDIT:
Cut and pasted "The (updated) Plan" from my other thread :
__________________________________________________ _______________
"The PLAN" : 3 Basic Steps
Step 1:
Swap in a modern drivetrain to tow our old Shasta camper cross country (RT 66) I struggled with tearing up an original "Z" code, but decent sheet metal is hard to find.
However, I need total reliability when hauling my wife, dog, and camper on a 6,000 mile 6-8 week trip. Some fuel economy will also be nice.
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I plan to focus on getting the drivetrain installed and debugged first.
If you don't know, the L83 is a "LT" series Gen 5 - 5.3 L with a 6L80 auto. ( NOT an LS series) There will be a lot of details on this set up.
Why?
Because the 2017 and up Gen V engines are a little more difficult due to the direct injection, VVT, AFM, - fuel challenges. This one came out of a 12k mile rear ended 2018 Yukon XL. 355 hp with 383 ft lbs.
These newer series engines have a TON of stump pulling power due the VVT and direct injection. The auto trans also has a 4.02 first gear and 2 overdrives ( .85 / .67 ).
With my current 33"s and the 3.54 ratio, this should work very well.
Step 2:
Get body work done ...
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Prep for paint. one of the possible colors is shown above. (Current color is sand)
However, this will most likely be next year as this engine swap is going to be pretty involved and expensive.
Step 3:
Redo and update the interior. Upgrade to modern seats with adjustability... Build a center console.
Eliminate the rear seat as I want more storage and an "Overlander" feel.
This will also be a year out .. tons of details to work out.
I just went back through your posts and updates and found a few posts from '15 about and complaining over Warn "LOCK-O-MATIC" hubs. You did replace them, didn't you? And did you trash them? If so. where? You see, I've had them on my truck for 32 years, and as far as I know, they were on it originally in '73. Yes, I've had them apart, repaired them with 'yard' parts, and continue to use and love them. I do take precautions with them--I always "Lock" them while wheeling, but for errand running and normal driving, they are perfect for me. So if you know of any still lying around, feel free to share with me; I intend to run them forever.
Rod Skaggs
'73 J4000 'WOOD GO' 360, 2100 MC, T-18, D-20, 60-2 rear, D-44 closed knuckle front with Warn Lock-O-Matics, Eaton E-lockers both, Pertronix module, AC, PS, '77 Firebird tilt column, Hydro-boost, AirLift bags front and rear, 33x15 Goodyear MTR's, Pacer 15x8 aluminum Bullet Holes, Summit line lock, 3rd brake light, MileMarker 12,000 cradle mounted winch
Yes, I did replace them with regular Warn hubs. Originally, my buddy wanted them, but has since sold his project.. so, I got them back.. PM me and we can work something out I am sure...
So.. back to updating the Jeep on this build thread...
Over the last 5 months, I have installed a 2018 Yukon 5.3 and 6L80 trans. Adapted a 1982 Dana 300 to the trans. See the Gen V build thread in my sig for details on that part of my build.
BUT .. now it's time to move back to all the "other" stuff I need ( OK, want ) to do to my Jeep...
Let's start here.. after I put the front end back on.. I wanted to make the Chero a bit more presentable in the short term.. so, out came the orbital buffer.
The Jeep has sat outside a fair amount the last 3 years or so as I reassembled my life.. and had oxidized and faded quite a bit...
Note, the back part of the hood and how "hazy" it is... The front? I have used some heavy cutting compound and the buffer ... and brought the shine back.
Now, it's far from perfect, but you can see the fruits of your work right away. Not horrible for 40 year old paint!
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Next I waxed the Jeep to help keep it shiney.. and took the wife for a drive. Her comment: "This Jeep is bouncy! "
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And went to a Jeep "Cars-N-Coffee" .. First outing. Lots of interest in the Chero... many have never seen one or even knew it existed.
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Next . . . All the mundane stuff to make the Jeep better.
I have fought the vent windows since I got this Jeep.
The lock handle always falls down.
I still cannot figure out how to service the "wave" washer that long ago gave up its spring to hold the handle up when open.
Seems the handle is pinned in place permanently?
So, Plan "B" .. hmm.
After thinking on it.. I figured maybe I could wedge something in the space next to the spring to add some resistance?
Went to the local hardware store and got a few sizes of these ... e clips
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Next, I figured out which one would "fit" over the pivot.. I think it was a 5/16" e clip?
Sorry for the fuzzy pic.. but note the magnet to catch the clip WHEN you drop it out of the pliers...
I used the needle nose to get the clip sort of started on the shaft....
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Look closely.. in front of the round magnet, and you can see the e clip ready to snap in next to the wave washer.
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I used a small flat blade screwdriver to snap it into position..
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A test drive... and the vent handles now stays up!
So, I was originally never going to tow anything with the 401.. but that has all changed with the RT 66 trip and new engine.
So, I recovered my original factory hitch and wiring from my buddy who "stored" it for me for 5 years! lol [ Thanks Dan ! ]
I figured this would be a no brainer, easy .. NOPE.
I forgot this thing is made from 1/4 thick steel.. It is heavy !! Dang.
I had a ton [ pun intended ] of trouble holding this thing up and trying to install it.
Almost smashed my face when I lost control of it.. uh oh.
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Then, after fighting it "almost" into position.. I saw that the new tailpipe was going to interfere with the hitch. Dammit!!
So out comes the cutoff wheel.. and much cutting later, removed the small section that would hit... THEN had to fight it back into position and bolt it up.
I was so beat after this, I didn't even bother with the wires yet.. Anybody have details on this? Specifically, the large wire with the black connector on it?
I just unplugged my towing box from the 79 chief. It plugs into the factory harness. at least mine did. I don't remember a plug that looked like that though. If it wasn't dark out I go crawl under it and get a pic.
I just unplugged my towing box from the 79 chief. It plugs into the factory harness. at least mine did. I don't remember a plug that looked like that though. If it wasn't dark out I go crawl under it and get a pic.
Please do! I "think" this may be a feed for a brake controller? idk really...
Also, note the in line single plugs .. are they really just connected together like this?
Mine looks exactly the same as 78 WIDETRACs. Same hitch, same electronic box, same connectors. I also had to trim my hitch to fit my exhaust. I have a spare tire hanging in my mine, though. The relays in that box are REALLLLLY loud. I can hear them clicking more than the clicker under my dash! HAHAHA!
My understanding is all that box does is separate the trailer light power from the Cherk harness so when you plug a trailer in, the blinkers blink at the same frequency and you don't blow fuses when you turn the lights on.
I also have a thick blue wire under my dash that is not connected to anything and a 2 pin connector under my cargo area that has that blue wire and another one (maybe ground?). So all the wiring is there for a 7 pin RV style connector/brake controller but I am 90% sure the electronic brake feed does not go through the box.
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