rang-a-stang's summer project/build

[rang-a-stang]

Long block is assembled! Good times! The rockers are not on but I want to get the engine sealed up so I put the valve covers on just to keep dust out. The intake runners didn't need much port matching at all: maybe a third of the work the exhaust side needed. The valve cover bolts are just some stainless ones I had lying around. I am undecided if I am going to use Stainless allen screws or clean the factory ones and use them.


I started on the intake manifold but the aluminum kept clogging my Dremel bit so I need to figure out a better bit to use. The runners on the intake are WAAaaaayyy off compared to the heads.

When I went to install the baffle on the bottom of the intake, there was interference I had to deal with. I used self tapping screws with blue thread locker to hold the baffle in. Anyone think that was a bad idea?

Heading up to Boise with my son for the weekend to get the keys to our new house and show him around so no Jeep work this weekend. I really want this engine sitting in my chassis in the next 2 weeks...

[bluehwy]

Heading up to Boise with my son for the weekend to get the keys to our new house and show him around so no Jeep work this weekend. I really want this engine sitting in my chassis in the next 2 weeks...

Engine really looks great! Congratulations on your new digs too!

[rang-a-stang]

I had a total bummer of a weekend worth of work. I masked my firewall and primered it on Wednesday afternoon. Early Saturday morning I sprayed the base coat on it and it looked AWESOME! I was soooo pumped! I let it dry to the touch (about 20 minutes) as the can said, then sprayed the clear over it. I stepped back and admired the best looking Saxon Yellow firewall I had ever seen...... Then over by my VIN tag, I noticed a little bubbling... Uuuhh... maybe that was just the rust converter in that spot...

For the next 40 minutes I watched in horror as pretty much the WHOLE firewall bubbled and peeled. I was ready to cry. Here is a tiny picture of what my whole firewall looks like.

I am fairly certain it's the primer. When I rub my fingernail over the bubbling, the paint comes right off and there is bare metal underneath. I have to re-do the whole firewall. I guess I'll get my chance to use my small bead blaster on it... The biggest bummer is I will not be able to get it done before I leave on my 6 week business trip. I REALLY wanted to mount my engine in the frame before I left. Nope.

I was able to finish port matching my intake. It took ALOT of work: the ports were significantly "off" from the intake pan gasket (all 8 runners looked like the 2 in my post above or worse). I'll take a picture tonight when I get home of the finished product. I would guess I opened up the runners about 10% each.

Last night I put a bunch of stuff away, swept/vacuum/mopped the garage floor and went to bed feeling defeated. Before I leave I'll mount my intake and some of the items on it (EGR, TStat, etc.) but that will probably be it. I might start on mounting my accessories/belt drive but IDK. We'll see.

[Full Size Jeeper]

You might need to use a primer made for bare metal. Not all primers are made for bare metal. Maybe someone that knows more than me will chime in and help.

[SJTD]

What kind of primer, paint and clear?

[rang-a-stang]

You guys are gonna roll your eyes. This is all squarely on my shoulders as a Newb/careless mistake.

It was a can of Rustoleum "Automotive Primer" that I had on my shelf. I finished the can and threw it away. Trash has come and taken it away so I can't evaluate it. It was not old, maybe 6 months on my shelf.

The base was a custom match/mix from Finishmaster that they put into a spray can for me. Again trash has gone and the can with the mix label was in it so I can't evaluate it. I didn't read the label close enough, either; just trusted the counter guy. Clear coat is a Smart brand high gloss can, also from Finishmaster, via their recommendation based on what they mixed for me for the base coat.

I am fairly certain I used the wrong primer. When I get back, I will spend more time and effort making sure all paint components are correct.

[SJTD]

I thought auto primer spray cans are lacquer for quick dry and easy sanding which I'd have thought would be ok under presumably urethane base/clear.

I've been using Epoxy but I'm repainting the whole thing.

I feel for you.

[rang-a-stang]

These are my last pictures for a few weeks. Heading to Hawaii for work for 4 weeks, then home for 9 days, then back to Hawaii for 2 more weeks. Sounds awesome but Hawaii sucks when you are there for work and have no family with you; its just another city that is a 4 hour flight from home but with crappy wrecking yards.

Here's how my intake runners turned out. Like I said, this represents ALOT of grinding.



And here's how my engine sits as I leave. The dizzy is just an old one I had that I stuck in there to plug the hole. It's pretty much sealed up now and I have it covered in towels so it should be fine sitting there for a few weeks. I am going to do stainless hardware on my valve cover. I am SUUUUPeeeer stoked on the black on blue with stainless accents. I am fairly certain my dizzy will be painted gloss black when it goes back in...

[SOLSAKS]

engine looks super good.

Stoked ?... i bet you are,.....going to be nice in the FSJ

hope you have a safe trip.

dont get in trouble with Hawaii Five-O........"Book him Dano !"

( i spotted taco man on the filing cabinet.)

take care
dave in NC

[bkilby]

Have a good trip Marc. Engine looks great.

[iapexl8r]

Woooooo Hooo I can finally reply.where do I start? Well your project looks fantastic! Bummer about the paint they say when using mix match paints your supposed to do a test piece, I on the other hand don?t either. I shot a fill primer on a rear quarter that had been on the shelf for way too long and did not set up. What a mess. It happens. Any way great work.
Chris

[rang-a-stang]

Before I left I had a good buddy come over that has painted quite a few cars. We talked about each step I did and the results I got. His opinion: it's engine degreaser. He thinks that after I cleaned my firewall with engine degreaser, before wire wheeling/painting that I did not get all the degreaser off/neutralized. Then, when the solvents from the base and clear were applied, they reacted with the degreaser and caused the bubbles. Makes perfect sense to me and is probably the best explanation I can expect. Still a bonehead move on my part though.

CHRIS!! I am going to hijack my own thread for a second to welcome you hear and introduce you.
a) I absolutely love your handle! Anyone reading this, know iapexl8r has an absolutely gorgeous AMX he races!
b) iapexl8r is the guy that bought Wesdog's Cherokee. When he bought it, we knew the roof was rusty. I didn't realize how rusty it really was until I saw this video. This roof is from a rig Heavy_metal_Thunder_81 parted out.
Cherokee Chief Roof swap video 1
Roof swap video 2

[SJTD]

Idunno. What'd you use for degreasing?

[rang-a-stang]

Wooo Hooo! Back in the saddle!
Stripped my firewall back down, re-primed, and painted it. It's no show car finish but neither is the rest of my rig. It's good enough for government work. I installed a few items on my firewall, too. It feels good to be putting my truck back together. My only hangup today was the blower motor housing and the heater box gap is about 3/4" and the gasket I made is about 1/2" so I'm going to have to take it apart and put a thicker gasket in there.



I also reassembled my rear brakes; I have an e-brake for the first time since I swapped my chassis. The driver side wheel cylinder was leaking so I replaced it. Almost all my flare nuts are stripped so I have been replacing them as I go and installed a new rear soft brake line. I got the a brake soft brake from the Chebby G30 van since its a bit longer. I have to replace the hard brake line from the rear soft brake line to the drivers side cylinder because I knicked the original one when I was replacing the flare nuts. I have no good pictures of this work because its mundane.

I pulled the pump off my trans and re-sealed it. While the pump was out, I drilled and tapped the vent so I could install a nipple and hose. Trans is ready to go in. Engine is ready to go in. I was going to drop them in today but my buddy with the hoist is a on trip and doesn't get home until tomorrow. Hopefully I can pick it up tomorrow, install engine/trans this weekend.

[SOLSAKS]

that is good news !

it will be a good weekend for sure if you can drop
the motor and transmission in.

firewall looks good too
by the time all components are back on the firewall

any imperfections will not be noticed any longer
and it will look show worthy.

good job.

dave in NC